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air injection resistor value


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d_studinski 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2013
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: March 18, 2013 at 3:43 AM / IP Logged  
Hello, I came across this form while trying to solve a problem and was hoping someone here could lend a hand.
I have a 2013 Kawasaki Ninja that I'm removing the Smog/Air Injection system from. The challeng I'm having is figuring out what value resistor I need to replace the solenoid/valve with.
I do have a simple multi-meter and a pretty basic understanding of electronics, but don't know how to figure this one out.
Any help would be greatly appreceiated!
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: March 18, 2013 at 5:55 AM / IP Logged  
I thought it was a simple air feed, no electronics.
If it has some O2 sensor or similar it'll probably need a voltage. But what does it do without that signal? Or is this some anti-tampering/disabling feature recently added?
On 2012 models, they just use a blanking plate. (I'd probably use a ball bearing...)
Dyno tuners are probably a better source as they would defeat the exhaust air injection in order to obtain a proper tune.
If you have a link, I'd be interested in any info on its electronics. (I assume you are not confusing EFI sensors etc.)
d_studinski 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2013
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: March 18, 2013 at 6:21 AM / IP Logged  
This model is new for 2013, so there's not a lot of info yet. Some of the tuners simply pinch the hose off, but I'm completely removing it and covering the hole in the head with a blanking plate.
The older models used a vacuum controlled valve as I understand it. The new models use a solenoid valve as part of the EFI system.
The US (and non-California) models do not have O2 sensors either.
If I just remove the solenoid and plug the holes, the EFI warning light comes on, and I'm not sure if the computer makes any other changes to try to compensate, etc.
Either way, I need to know how to figure out what value resistor I need to fool the computer into thinking the solenoid/valve is still hooked up and functioning.
I know I could just leave the solenoid hooked up and hanging there without the hoses attached to it, however it's not the cleanest install and you hear the clicking of the solenoid, hence the resistor.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: March 18, 2013 at 6:59 AM / IP Logged  
Measure the solenoid's coil resistance with a DMM.
The nearest preferred value resistor should be good enough, probably around 68Ω, 150Ω or 270Ω depending on the solenoid.
Minimum resistor power ratings: 1/4W if above 900Ω; 1/2W above 400Ω; 1W above 200Ω; 2W above 100Ω, 5W above 40 Ohm.
Chances are that a 1kΩ resistor (1/4W or 1/2W etc) else a 470Ω (1/2W etc) will do if you have one handy...   
Or try a 2W or 3W bulb - at least for testing. (2W = 100Ω; 3W = 68Ω)

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