I have heard of, but never seen a Corolla with Smart Key. Any chance they only sell those in Canada?
Or maybe you just mean the regular metal key with the remote keyless entry built into the head of the key?
This would make a big difference in your choice of bypass module. If it has Smart Key, yes, you want that Omega module no matter what. If it has a regular key, there are some cheaper options.
Anyway.....
--Omega OM-DB-ALL should be a rebadged ADS iDatalink ALCA or Audiovox Flashlogic FLCAN, if I'm not mistaken.
That should be a good choice....it'll handle the immobilizer so you won't give up a key, but also do trunk, locks, and give you tach, trunk, and door status.
It should
probably also be compatible with the DBI port on the CrimeGuard unit, so the Toyota remotes will control arm;disarm of the CrimeGuard and vice versa. When DBI (data-to-data) works, it's wonderful. When it doesn't work, the manufacturers won't man up and support it and fix it for you. So good luck. It should probably work, though.
One other nice thing that module will do is keep the OEM Toyota remotes working during remote start. (Go outside to the car now, start the engine with the key. Try the buttons on the Toyota remote; they won't work. The module will make it so that when the remote starter is on, the Toyota buttons will still work.)
---Bitwriter: You're a little bit mistaken here on the terminology but you have the right idea.
The Bitwriter is a tool used to customize settings in DEI (Viper, Python, Avital) systems. You won't need that for your CrimeGuard system.
However, any of the ADS-made bypass modules (including the one you have in mind) need to have vehicle-specific firmware flashed onto them. I think they call the required cable a Weblink Updater.
(I know, for example, the FLCAN does come pre-loaded with firmware for new Chryslers, but again, if you're working on any kind of car other than that, the module must be re-flashed. Not sure what the default firmware on the OM-DB-ALL might be.)
Also, in order to flash a module, besides having the cable, one must have an account with ADS. It's free, but they take steps to verify you're a legitimate professional business before activating your account.
Summary: The Weblink Updater wouldn't be of much use to you even if you did buy one. Be SURE if you're buying this module online somewhere, that the seller understands and will flash the proper firmware for your car. Otherwise, you'll really be in a jam.
Windows: As far as I'm aware, the windows up/down control is not a part of the car's databus system, and therefore no data module could control it even if they wanted to.
Plus, even on the cars that have windows through data, the bypass guys generally suck and are totally inconsistent about it. They'll say they'll never do it for liability reasons, but then on another car they do do it!
So, for full window control (up and down), you'd be looking at two pieces of the DEI 530T for all four windows, and if there's a sunroof, one 529T as well.
You'll have to run some wires into the driver's door through the rubber boot, as that's the ONLY place to get the driver's window wires. The other three windows you can get the wires inside the car in the driver's kick panel area, probably.
There are some other window modules that are a little cheaper, but buy the DEI modules. They've been around forever, and if something goes wrong, forum members will be familiar with them and able to help you.
TIP FOR COROLLAS: The wires on the 2009-up Corolla have this weird insulation that's hard and brittle. It's very easy to break them while trying to strip them. Get yourself a cigarette lighter and lightly heat up each wire before working with it.