the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

2010 f150 db all programming issues


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
robob 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2013
Location: Vermont, United States
Posted: March 30, 2013 at 3:41 PM / IP Logged  
Hello all, first post here, and after searching around I have not found an answer.
I have a 40bit 2010 f150 with Python Responder One 2way remote starter that is able to start with key in off position, however I have been unable to get the PATS bypass working with either the PKTX (which I returned) and now after switching to a DBALL with latest ford1 firmware flashed I am unable to get it to program.
I do not need door status monitoring etc so I am trying to have as few connections as possible, I have tried D2D and now am just doing W2W with GWR and Ignition wires hooked up besides power and TX/RX for PATS to DBALL.
However after inserting first key for first 3 sec it just starts blinking red status and does not turn orange as instructed on last step before starting(see below) when I get to the end the security light blinks and does not allow it to start.
http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDownload.aspx?documentid=7604&productid=461&firmwareid=3275
Any thoughts or help will be much appreciated, thank you
robob 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2013
Location: Vermont, United States
Posted: March 30, 2013 at 3:47 PM / IP Logged  
Tried reversing TX/RX wires, still no luck. I must be missing something simple as to why this thing will not program
robob 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2013
Location: Vermont, United States
Posted: March 30, 2013 at 6:31 PM / IP Logged  
Double checked all my connections on DBALL as I am to understand all it needs to function as a PATS bypass is:
GWR
IGN
RX
TX
12+/-
Am I missing anything that would stop it from programming??
I have an SA key but checked and had no voltage on pin 1 while key was ON so I am to assume that is a 40bit w/80bit key also the latest firmware supports both so I do not see where the issue could be.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 30, 2013 at 7:48 PM / IP Logged  

Your wiring looks good ( but I don't use DB-ALL's ).

Yes, the 2010 F150's I've done were 40 bit.   I used the discontinued Directed 1100F bypass and

had you problems.  Here is some info from my notes:
    RX wire is Yellow/Orange @ Pin 4
    TX wire is Violet/Gray @ Pin 3

My first thought was perhaps you were using two "cloned" keys, but the programming

error with the first key doesn't fit.  Perhaps you should do a DB-ALL module soft or hard
reset because you switched from D2D to W2W and then try programming again.

Soldering is fun!
robob 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2013
Location: Vermont, United States
Posted: March 30, 2013 at 8:23 PM / IP Logged  
Yes I double and triple checked for 80 bit since the keys are stamped SA but no 12v signal pin 1 when ignition is on, wish the answer was that simple.
I re-checked the connection with DMM of RX & TX wires as I felt there must not be a good connection to interrupt programming but they were fine.
Leaving the 2nd key in the ignition for now to use in the mornings haha
Other than the bypass problem RMST works great and wasn't that bad and well worth the 6+hrs so far invested
Just things I want to double check
(pin4) RX to RX Unit(dball)
(pin3) Tx to TX Unit(dball) as well right?
Also will it matter if I move the bypass module's IGN wire to the lead (PINK) off the remote start instead of up on the column? the wire @ remote start is higher gauge and I feel safer long term having it there.
Going to wire the PKTX back up tomorrow for another round, if nothing works then I will have to trust in Fortin.
I can have an EVO-RIDE in for Monday if this isn't sorted, I don't want to use the can bus connectors just a simple bypass for the start is all i need.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 30, 2013 at 8:54 PM / IP Logged  

Yes, the DB-ALL Yellow/Black TX wire on the Red connector goes to the F150's

Violet/Gray TX wire @ Pin 3 of the transponder plug and the DB-ALL ORANGE / Black
RX wire goes to the Yellow/Orange wire.

I usually mate the bypass to the R/S and just tap the bypass's Ignition wire to the

R/S's thick Ignition1 wire that then continues to the vehicle's Ignition1 wire.
Example :
2010 f150 db all programming issues -- posted image.

The big "gotcha-cha" on those trucks is the Parking Light wire.   Use the Violet/White (+) Parking Light wire at the SJB, Plug E, Pin6.

Soldering is fun!
longboy64 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: March 24, 2013
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: March 31, 2013 at 12:21 AM / IP Logged  
I have the same.problem on my Titan with that ball . I think it's the module I'm going to try that on mine too
robob 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2013
Location: Vermont, United States
Posted: March 31, 2013 at 2:08 PM / IP Logged  
Went and got the PKTX again, luckily it hadn't shipped back yet, re-wired same as yesterday and would not program still.
Then I tried different programming sequences like the 80bit, 40 bit with same key 2x and then finally I tried 3 sequences of key on / key off, using the 1st key over again, got the 10 rapid blinks on PKTX and it bypasses fine now.
Pretty sure DEI hates me lol, thank you for all your help and keeping me from second guessing myself haha
longboy64 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: March 24, 2013
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: May 02, 2013 at 10:13 PM / IP Logged  
My 04 titan starts only with the key in the ignition the dball light does not even blink or anything when I push any button. I have a audiovox remote start aps 57c.

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Saturday, April 27, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer