capping maximum input voltage

Did I mention earlier that you could use a relay and a capacitor to power the unit from either the battery when the ignition is not powered, (it will be under the worried about 14.X volts). And when the ignition is on, this will power the supply and get power from the supply instead of the battery which MAY be at 14.x volts.

PS - sorry IAAI, I missed your replies. But I'm glad you state what IMO should be obvious. Maybe commercials are worth a look see. The cap might be a cranking ride thru (allowing for (Shottky) diode drop) with a Zenor once started. Back to my reply (to agemax)... Ha ha - yeah right. Alas commercial units cannot assume your specifics - ie, that you know your bike is upright before starting. It's a bit like cars checking they are in neutral or Park etc (which yours too would have). And ok, so motorbike remote starts allow the engine to continue to run with zero/low oil pressure. Note that I say "continue to run" and NOT start (I'm not stupid).    You reckon I have no knowledge of mc electrics etc. Strange then that I have corrected a number of OEM design faults. And you reckon you start the bike and I can't take it and then ride off? Pray tell, with your fob unable to turn the bike off, how will you stop me? (Or is your fob encoding and receiver selectivity that good?) But fine, go to another site that does not consider nor discuss these issues. Maybe one will empower you to by the right products instead of needing a dc-dc converter to patch your mistake. And thanks for the forewarning. I now know not to even bother looking at commercial offerings for my bikes (admittedly one is a round-case with kickstarter only, but unlike its OEM version, I can start it with a flat battery AND charge with lights at idle speeds). Good riding bro.

oldspark wrote: PS - sorry IAAI, I missed your replies. But I'm glad you state what IMO should be obvious. Maybe commercials are worth a look see. The cap might be a cranking ride thru (allowing for (Shottky) diode drop) with a Zenor once started. Back to my reply (to agemax)... Ha ha - yeah right. Alas commercial units cannot assume your specifics - ie, that you know your bike is upright before starting. It's a bit like cars checking they are in neutral or Park etc (which yours too would have). And ok, so motorbike remote starts allow the engine to continue to run with zero/low oil pressure. Note that I say "continue to run" and NOT start (I'm not stupid).    You reckon I have no knowledge of mc electrics etc. Strange then that I have corrected a number of OEM design faults. And you reckon you start the bike and I can't take it and then ride off? Pray tell, with your fob unable to turn the bike off, how will you stop me? (Or is your fob encoding and receiver selectivity that good?) But fine, go to another site that does not consider nor discuss these issues. Maybe one will empower you to by the right products instead of needing a dc-dc converter to patch your mistake. And thanks for the forewarning. I now know not to even bother looking at commercial offerings for my bikes (admittedly one is a round-case with kickstarter only, but unlike its OEM version, I can start it with a flat battery AND charge with lights at idle speeds). Good riding bro.

you wont know if you have oil pressure UNTIL the bike is started, so how can it prevent you from starting it? so please explain, which OEM design faults have you "corrected"? you still do not grasp the concept of the remote start system do you? i can power the bikes ignition circuit from the key fob, as well as start the bike. if i start it from a distance, and someone decides to jump on it and ride off before i get there, i simply kill the ignition (with the keyfob), bike stops dead! oh, and there is nothing wrong with my charging system, even at idle! a flat battery can be a problem, but it is a simple task to bump start it, unlike a car,especially an automatic

i am an idiot wrote: All "Ready Made" remote start units have timers. None of them are designed to replace a key.

so please explain the whole concept of a "remote" start. i would say it is so you could "remotely" start a car or a bike from a distance. having to sit in the car, or on a bike and physically put a key in, turn it then start the bike with the keyfob is not exactly very remote is it? and i still have no idea why you keep mentioning a timer, is that to time how long it takes you to press the button on the keyfob after you run to your vehicle and turn the key?

agemax wrote: you wont know if you have oil pressure UNTIL the bike is started, so how can it prevent you from starting it?

oldspark wrote: Note that I say "continue to run" and NOT start...

Clear?

agemax wrote: oh, and there is nothing wrong with my charging system, even at idle!

I never said there was. I thought "round case" was enough of a hint as to which 1972 bike I referred to. They won't start with a flattery even if you could roll start it, and they don't survive city riding at night, yet I can kick-start mine with a flattery and survive with lights below 3000 RPM (which is over 100kmh/60mph) - the required RPM for their "stator" type alternator to adequately run a 55W headlight etc. But if you don't know that vintage etc you probably won't understand how unique mine was (without spending hundred$).

agemax wrote: a flat battery can be a problem, but it is a simple task to bump start it, unlike a car,especially an automatic

Yes, but your remote-start won't work. You miss my point.

agemax to IAAI wrote: so please explain the whole concept of a "remote" start. i would say it is so you could "remotely" start a car or a bike from a distance. having to sit in the car, or on a bike and physically put a key in, turn it then start the bike with the keyfob is not exactly very remote is it? and i still have no idea why you keep mentioning a timer...

agemax to oldspark wrote: you still do not grasp the concept of the remote start system do you?

It is you that does not grasp the DESIGN of a remote-start. You have described its primitive function with none of the inherent detail. To say that you will always be able to turn the bike off with the fob demonstrates your lack of understanding if not ignorance of required "security" and likely countermeasures, or failures. (I presume your fob & receiver have appropriate rolling encoding etc?) I strongly suggest you read up on remote-start bike systems. This technology is now decades old and it would simply not survive commercially if it did not have the features we have mentioned (and we are only scraping the surface - cold oil viscosity in a bike often means other sensing - the simplest (but in the "too late" basket) being a tilt switch. Even if the first remote-start prototype did not have such features, it probably wouldn't take long to realise their necessity. And any commercial generic unit must have such features available. Bikes used to use car remote-start systems but with additions that were unique to bikes. But maybe car systems are a good starting point - eg wrt timers, oil pressure, etc.    This forum does have threads that discuss such features and requirements though it's only the occasional hobbyist or amateur that doesn't already understand such details so a concise "all in one" treatise may be hard to find (tip - use google). And tho I am not an installer of such systems, IAAI is and he seems to confirm what I have been saying. And as Howie II wrote, this has all been done before... Over & out.

Timer = Run time timer. They all shut off at a selectable amount of time.

I suspect the penny never dropped. Strange - there is so much web info on such designs...

oldspark wrote: I suspect the penny never dropped. Strange - there is so much web info on such designs...

it is all up and working absolutely fine, just as i thought it would. the remote control system actually runs perfectly well being fed direct from the battery, even with the voltage fluctuation. thanks anyway for any advice given.

You may still miss the point - I didn't think it wouldn't work. Get back to us if any "accident" or damage happens, or if it ever gets stolen.

will do, but don't hold your breath waiting! i dont think there are any points i have missed, the system works flawlessly AFAIAC.