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radio delay off using 528t


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quark kent 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: September 16, 2013
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: September 16, 2013 at 11:48 PM / IP Logged  
..lol I still am not allowed to edit.. Yes I agree we could have just suggested to hook the acc of the deck to ign....but that would still not explain the issue and as well is not really a perfect fix since some people would actually like to listen to the deck without the vehicle running and/or the ignition on.
I can not explain to you what "nothing" is in a scientific way. What makes matters worse is you won't notice it when you finally have the opportunity to experience it.
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,670
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: September 17, 2013 at 12:06 AM / IP Logged  
I was planning to do it with using only the ACC wire. Parallel the 2 diodes, which I know are overkill for this situation. Connect the positive leg of the capacitor to both the Radio's Red wire and the diodes. Ground the capacitor and connect The Car's ACC wire to the other end of the diodes. This will Keep the radio powered up through the start cycle. I know it will keep the radio on for a while after the key is turned off, but it can all be done without any multi-source wiring.
quark kent 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: September 16, 2013
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: September 17, 2013 at 12:19 AM / IP Logged  
Yeah it is a bit of overkill but really should not be neccesary IF the only problem is acc dropping out during crank. But again at least I would ask...why the acc wire of the deck losing power during crank would be a problem? Why not a problem every time it loses power such as when you turn the ign switch off even if you never started the vehicle?
Now if the compaint was only after an aftermarket deck install that would be one thing, but unless the OP is not being 100% forthright, it seems he had the same issue with both the factory deck and the aftermarket deck. At that point I am curious if this is truly the case..what is the actual culprit. I would love to have meter readings of the acc, constant and groud during crank so I could actually see what is going on here. I am not so sure using a band aid on the acc wire of the deck will fix this....and even if it did I would still have questions. If it did not fix it I would not be surprised even though I did initially suggest the bandaid I am now not so sure it will work as a fix. This is not a radar detector...it is a factory and aftermarket deck both of which have not just a power and ground, but an ACC wire.
I can not explain to you what "nothing" is in a scientific way. What makes matters worse is you won't notice it when you finally have the opportunity to experience it.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: September 17, 2013 at 12:29 AM / IP Logged  
Ah well, you (IAAI) probably know my dislike for the use of large caps for ride-thru circuits. (Caps to hold relays energised - yes; but not for the heavy power.) Plus 2 diodes and a relay are usually cheaper than the (diode &) cap required, and give infinite hold-up time. Of course I was assuming a cranking drop out... (read on).
quark kent - alas no, this is still another boring case of NOT learning something new. It's merely another case of my misreading of the OP - I thought the dropout (reset) was during cranking, not when switching from ACC to IGN.
Ironically my solution is till valid...
I strongly suspect the common worn switch fault where a break occurs between ACC & IGN.
Two diodes solves that problem. The suggested relay adds the aforementioned benefits.
The OP may want to replace the IGN switch if this is a precursor to switch failure, else be prepared for a workaround.
Whether a reset occurs during cranking (as I first thought) is another issue, but if the same IGN +12V source is chosen for the IGN diode, the behavior will be the same as the OEM intent.
However both the above are up to the OP. The OP may indeed choose to investigate the cause and hence perhaps replace the IGN switch - or whatever other solution is needed.
quark kent 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: September 16, 2013
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: September 17, 2013 at 12:46 AM / IP Logged  
If the problem is ignition switch related....wouldn't it make more sense that it is the constant feed wire that is cuttng out during crank? If it is the ignition wire cuttng out then that should have no effect on the deck since the deck if wired correctly would not be hooked to the ignition wire. Plus the vehicle would not start very well which would be a bigger issue.
Now if the acc wire is losing power during crank that is normal. Unless you are suggesting it is spiking? I could see that being a problem but would find it odd to have the exact same symptons every time on both a factory and aftermarket deck. You can bench those and see what happens..you give the ACC wire power...it turns on..you remoce the acc wire from power,,it turns off. Now see what happens when it loses power on the constant 12v or ground. It typically needs a reset..correct?
I can not explain to you what "nothing" is in a scientific way. What makes matters worse is you won't notice it when you finally have the opportunity to experience it.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: September 17, 2013 at 12:55 AM / IP Logged  
I totally agree. But I'll leave that for the OP to feed back.
Until the OP says it does not reset when first powered on (to ACC), I won't suggest how an IGN switch can break Const +12V.
quark kent 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: September 16, 2013
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: September 17, 2013 at 1:09 AM / IP Logged  
I know it seems I am over analyzing and I do not mean to do that or dispute your suggestions. I fully agree there is more info required from the OP. However I thought about all possible scenarios including a data module but it would still not explain how cranking could cause the need of a reset (loss of memory I assume) of both a factory and aftermarket deck due to losing power on the acc wire during crank since that is exactly what an acc wire is supposed to do....lose power during crank.
Hence I question the advice of rigging it to retain power during crank as a possible fix. I think there is more to this aka the OP is leaving out something important that seems unimportant but is the key. Most likely something so simple we are all overlooking it. I was thinking something as simple as there is no pwer at the constant wire...but many decks today will not even power up without power on the constant wire at all times. Meh.
I can not explain to you what "nothing" is in a scientific way. What makes matters worse is you won't notice it when you finally have the opportunity to experience it.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: September 17, 2013 at 2:54 AM / IP Logged  
The OP is ambiguous (maybe I did not misread his OP?)...
sniperess wrote:
... when I switch from ACC to START/ON, the radio will reboot, the same goes for my factory radio.
I'm guessing ACC drops out during engine crank.
I'm assuming his statement about switching from ACC to START/ON is correct and the "ACC dropping out during crank" to be an erroneous irrelevance, but that's interpreting START/ON to mean IGN.
However "to START/ON" could mean "switching from ACC to ON/IGN" or when pressing START else keying from IGN to START. (The OP has not posted vehicle info as is required by the12volt's rules.)
I provide a solution that solves both contingencies.
Whether the radio handles cranking is another issue, though IMO equipment should look after itself. EG - my Alpine has a direct battery supply yet (usually) turns off during cranking and then reverts to its last state.
As to whether I recommend a diode/cap or diode+diode to relay depends on what the OP means, and what is desired.
As for other possibilities, I usually don't speculate, I merely provide solutions to solve all and let the OP choose. But that means long replies (and boredom, or confusion, or...).
So in this case. I'm KISSing it and waiting for relevant replies.
If the OP were in a hurry, then they sh/would have supplied better & appropriate info, or already have searched (since this type of problem has been answered countless times...).    
Maybe it is a missing const +12V, but I assume the OP has checked for that. I guess I might have covered that if I was one of the first replies but I came in late and was mainly tackling what I thought was unnecessary cost & complication (caps or timers - noting my reset during cranking misread) and wasn't concerned about basics that should have already been covered else implicit. (After all, the OP had specifically mentioned the 528t.)
quark kent 
Member - Posts: 27
Member spacespace
Joined: September 16, 2013
Location: Florida, United States
Posted: September 17, 2013 at 12:04 PM / IP Logged  
I was wondering where he got the idea of using a 528T to solve this. There are some great uses for that unit but someone must have given him the wrong advice so he came here asking how to wire it.
Regarsless he states the deck works on acc but clears in both on/run and crank implying it is losing constant. If he won't respond back we can't ask if he checked that but being he is asking about fixing it with a 528T he probably is not being guided in the right direction and/or does not know how to properly T/S a deck issue.
I can not explain to you what "nothing" is in a scientific way. What makes matters worse is you won't notice it when you finally have the opportunity to experience it.
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