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2000-2003 Ford Taurus Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial


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smokeman1 
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Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: November 18, 2013 at 9:49 PM / IP Logged  
For the few W2W connection it is, why not dump the D2D and go W2W. maybe the GWR is not working through the DB-ALL.
EDIT:
Your 5701 might have D2D jumpers on it that need to be set for an external D2D module. Page 54 of the install guide.
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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matt1981m 
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Posted: November 19, 2013 at 8:04 PM / IP Logged  
OK finally got it programmed correctly. I went to a junkyard this afternoon with my ratchet and some wire cutters, and got both sides of the transponder harness out of another 2003 ford. I took it home, and made myself a T-Harness, soldering all of the connections to ensure it was connected perfectly. I had used scotchloks before, and with those skinny wires it wasn't connecting very strongly.
The way I was taught when soldering connections is that after soldered, heatshrink is best but electrical tape is ok too. The trick to keeping the connection secure and avoiding it breaking apart is a zip tie over the insulation used just below the joint, as well as right above. That immobilizes the wire you piggy backed, as well as keeps the insulation from coming undone (in the case of electrical tape). The Rx/tx wires were of course, the only 2 wires I used scotchloks with.
matt1981m 
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Posted: November 19, 2013 at 8:09 PM / IP Logged  
Thank you again to everyone for your help with this install! Now I get to install one in my Wife's Kia.
e129745 
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Joined: August 09, 2013
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: December 01, 2013 at 6:34 AM / IP Logged  
Very good info/images.
I am doing some research in hopes of installing a remote start on my wife's 2002 Taurus, hopefully gift wrapping the remotes for Christmas with the install complete on the car. I haven't purchased anything yet as my research only began a week ago at the most and I came across this thread. Again I say, "well done!" I have questions regarding the many bypass modules available. I find they (I'll likely get Directs PKALL bypass or maybe Fortin Key-OverRide-All) are requiring either 1 key to function, (OK that's logical), or 2 keys to program, (again, I see the logic as far as security goes). But our car is 11-12 years old and bought used 3 years ago and doesn't have a second OEM provided key. If I got a second key, I would avoid the more expen$ive $dealership$. Yet, I see that if you try using the only available key for the 2 separate keys required ends up faulting the programing process rendering the programing incomplete. Also noted is the use of a clone key for either of the two required OEM keys. This too, yields the same incomplete programing process. For that matter, I have no idea if the one key we DO have is this referenced "clone" key or if it is original.
1.What is a clone key? I have found cheaper Ebay blank key resources in the past that requires us to take it to the dealer to ?flash or ?program or whatever they do, about $80 total if I remember correctly, maybe more in all. I think this was significantly cheaper that direct to dealer. If I got this back-up key from these sources, would this produce this so-called clone key?
2.What are folks doing in this situation? I think it extremely likely that many others also have access to only one key and it too may not be the original key.
Thanks for your expertise and experience concerning this.
Patrick
matt1981m 
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Posted: December 01, 2013 at 7:58 AM / IP Logged  
Check local locksmiths, you may be able to get one cheaper than the dealer.
e129745 
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Joined: August 09, 2013
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Posted: December 01, 2013 at 12:15 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the reply Matt1981m. So then, two keys are definitely required? and what of the term "clone key"?. I think this term came out of the manual from the PKALL bypass.
Patrick
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 01, 2013 at 1:02 PM / IP Logged  

Clone keys are transponder duplicates of another working key.  The bypass module programming is similar to adding another key to the vehicle.  The PATS3 system needs to see two "different" working keys.  Working keys are those that are already programmed into and accepted by the PATS3 system.  One key could be the first Factory original and the second key could be a clone of the second Factory original.  As long as two different transponder chip ID's are used, you will be OK.

Without those two unique keys, you will need to either obtain a clone type key and hide that under the dash in a "universal" bypass module like the 556UW or go to a Dealer or high-tech locksmith to get another unique transponder chip key programmed to the vehicle.  This usually requires a dealer type scan tool.

There are ways to program a bypass module using only one key but this process is generally restricted to 12 Volt Industry Professionals.

Soldering is fun!
e129745 
Member - Posts: 20
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Joined: August 09, 2013
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: December 01, 2013 at 2:03 PM / IP Logged  
I presumed this was the case and thanks you for the clarification. Considering cost, it appears that the course of action is to acquire a second key, not being made to be recognized by the PATS3 system through a dealers scan tool. Then storing this new key onboard using the correct type of bypass.
Thanks for your help,
Patrick
matt1981m 
Member - Posts: 18
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Joined: October 31, 2013
Location: Iowa, United States
Posted: December 01, 2013 at 6:56 PM / IP Logged  
If you have another key made, and not just a clone of the 1 key you have, you will have that spare available in case something happens... and it will eventually happen. I would use a module that doesn't require a key to be installed inside if possible, that way you continue to have 2 keys available. With the prevalence of this model vehicle available in junk yards, take the time and make a T-Harness like I did for the transponder wires. Sure it is only 2 connections, but those tiny wires are a pain in the ^$^%&$%$ to get when bent underneath a dash. By doing that, you can take care of the connections in a more comfortable position. If I could make T-Harnesses for the other connections outside of the remote start ones, I would have! More prep, but a lot less work.
If you go with a clone of your existing key, I would get 2 clones made. One for a spare, one for the 556U to use to bypass the transponder. This would probably be the cheapest route, unless you have a local locksmith that will make the key cheaply. If a clone is what you go with, even check with your local hardware store. We have an ACE Hardware here that can make clones. If you haven't yet, pull that panel off underneath the steering column. You may luck out like I did. A previous owner had a key made by the dealership, and had installed it in a 556U. They butchered the install, but I had a 3rd key at no cost to me. Maybe the second key you are missing is in there... One can only hope!!
e129745 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: August 09, 2013
Location: Washington, United States
Posted: December 02, 2013 at 12:30 AM / IP Logged  
Exactly matt1981m! That is exactly what I am pondering.
I'm leaning towards getting a 2nd key programed into the on board PATS3 at a dealer... and looking under the dash "as-is" is a super idea! Could be driving around with the solution tucked away safely awaiting discovery!
Thanks mister!
Patrick
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