the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

1998 tacoma, viper 5704v


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
farside792 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2013
Posted: October 25, 2013 at 10:38 AM / IP Logged  
I'm about to tackle the Viper 5704V install (my first R/S) on my 1998 Toyota Tacoma (3.4L extended cab manual transmission) and I've definitely learned a great deal from this site. I've listed out the main harnesses and do what color wire's I'll be connecting them just to have someone double check my work. I only have a few really uncertain connections and they are listed in bold. Hopefully I'm on the right track and will have a relatively easy install!
I don't think that I need to isolate the door wires with diodes seeing as there are only 2 doors and the truck doesn't distinguish which is open. I'm also assuming that since the cut sheet for the harnesses requires both Door Input - and + to be hooked up for a manual transmission, that I'd just connect the + to the + door trigger wire.
The real question revolves around the H2/18, H2/9 and H2/10 wires. Slightly confused as to where I'd hook up a relay back to the truck for H2/18?
I really appreciate anyone checking this over for me!
H1
H1/1_______Red__________12DC Constant Input_________White 12v constant
H1/2_______Black________Chassis Ground______________Ground
H1/3_______Brown________Siren Output________________Siren +
H1/4_______WHITE/ Brown__Parking Light Isolation_____N/A
H1/5_______White________Parking Light Output________Green (Bottom fuse box white plug)
H1/6_______Orange_______Ground When Armed Output____N/A
Door
D1/1_______Blue_________Unlock Output_______________RED / Yellow
D1/2_______N/A
D1/3_______Green________Lock Output_________________RED / White 12 pin conn dr kick
H2
H2/1_______Pink/White____Ignition 2/Flex Output______N/A
H2/2_______BLACK/ White___Neutral Safety______________Parking Break
H2/3_______Blue/White____2nd Status/Rear Defog_______N/A
H2/4_______GREEN/ Black___Factory Alarm Disarm________N/A
H2/5_______RED / White_____Trunk Release_______________N/A
H2/6_______Green_________Door Input (-)______________Door (-) w/o Diode?
H2/7_______BLACK / YELLOW__Dome Light Output__________N/A Needed?
H2/8_______BROWN / Black___Horn Honk__________________GREEN/ Red
H2/9_______Dark Blue_____Status Output______________ ?
H2/10______Pink__________Ignition 1 Output__________ ?
H2/11______WHITE/ Black___Aux 3______________________N/A
H2/12______Violet________Door Input (+)_____________Door (+) ..diode?
H2/13______WHITE/ Violet__Aux 1______________________N/A
H2/14______Violet________Aux 2______________________N/A
H2/15______ORANGE / Black__Aux 4______________________N/A
H2/16______Brown_________Brake Shutdown_____________GREEN / WHITE by pedal
H2/17______Gray__________Hood Pin___________________Hood Pin
H2/18______Violet / YELLOW_Starter Output_____________Use a relay...but connect to truck where?
H2/19______Blue__________Trunk Pin__________________N/A
H2/20______Gray/Black____Diesel Wait________________N/A
H2/21______WHITE/ Blue____Activation Input___________?
H2/22______Orange________Accessory Output___________N/A (whats it for?)
H2/23______Violet/White__Tach Input_________________Black by ODB or engine bay
H2/24______GREEN / WHITE___Factory Alarm Arm Out______N/A
H3
H3/1_______Pink__________Ignition 1 Input/Output_____________BLACK / YELLOW
H3/2_______RED / White_____Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Input 87____White (12v constant)
H3/3_______Orange________Accessory Output____________________Blue/Red
H3/4_______Violet________Starter Output (car side)___________Black - split (car side)
H3/5_______Green_________Starter Input (key side)____________Black - split (key side)
H3/6_______Red___________Ignition 1 Input____________________WHITE/ Red
H3/7_______Pink/White____Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Output______BLACK/ Red
H3/8_______Pink/Black____Flex Relay Input 87A key side_______N/A
H3/9_______RED / Black_____Accessory/Starter Input_____________White (12v constant)
H3/10______N/A
shortcircuit161 
Silver - Posts: 556
Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 29, 2010
Location: United States
Posted: October 25, 2013 at 7:45 PM / IP Logged  
All connections on H1 are correct.
H2/4 - Factory alarm disarm - if your tacoma has factory alarm, connect this wire to the blue/black wire found in the driver's kick panel.
H2/6 & H2/12 are used one OR the other, not both.
You won't need H2/12 for this setup. The Tacoma has a negative trigger for the door output. You don't need a diode but can use one if you wish to. Connect H2/6 to the BLACK/ white wire on the top rear of the fuse box.
H2/7 - not needed
H2/9 - not needed (used mainly for immobilizer bypass modules)
H2/10 - not needed
H2/19 - not needed
H2/21 - not needed
H2/22 - not needed (connected only if the ignition wiring had more than 1 Accessory wire to connect to. This Tacoma does not.
All connections on H3 are correct.
Everything else looks great!!
Good Luck!!
farside792 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2013
Posted: October 25, 2013 at 8:17 PM / IP Logged  
Frank - you sir are a gentleman and a scholar. Thanks for the reply/info!
I just got done installing and ignored the suggested wires that you listed. The only one that I wasn't too terribly sure about still was H2/12. The install cut sheet says that that wire, along with H2/6 is required for MTS. I ended up hooking that up to a red wire that runs directly to the driver door trigger (it was 12v when the door was open and 0v closed, opposite of the BLACK/ white H2/6 wire).
The install went fairly straight forward aside form the few hard-to-reach areas/wires.
So everything was buttoned up and after pairing my LC3 remote I tried locking/unlocking the doors which works. I was able to do the Learn Tach with no issues. The only issue that I have with lock/unlock is that after they lock, the system arms and it chirps one additional time then says on the remote "DOOR OPEN". I read that you can just turn off Menu 2, 4 option 2. I'd still like to know why it thinks the door is open?
After that, I decided to try the remote start. So I went through the procedure of:
-Truck running
-Step on brake
-Engage parking brake
-Let off brake
-Use remote to "start" the vehicle
-Get out of truck
-Arm the system
Everything works like a champ....and the remote shows that MTS remote start is enabled. Now, when I try to start the truck (I'm still sitting inside holding down the clutch as I haven't bypassed this yet) it almost immediately errors out and flashes the lights 7 times. I read this means a MTS initialization error but I'm fairly sure I've done that procedure correctly. :(
I then tried setting the viper to automatic transmission mode and it starts like a champ every time now (still holding the clutch down while inside). So, the starter function is working just fine, but not in MTS mode. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?
Thanks again in advance everyone!
shortcircuit161 
Silver - Posts: 556
Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 29, 2010
Location: United States
Posted: October 25, 2013 at 9:05 PM / IP Logged  
For the MTS ready mode to work, you have to make sure, first and foremost, that the tach and door trigger wires are connected.
Then, it seems you might have mixed up 2 of the steps.
-With engine running with the key
-press and hold foot brake
-engage parking brake
-remote start the vehicle (i believe the parking lights flash so many times to acknowledge MTS mode is starting.
-NOW, release foot brake
-get out of the truck
-arm the system
Try it again that way and it should work.
farside792 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2013
Posted: October 25, 2013 at 9:28 PM / IP Logged  
I'll give that new procedure a try in the AM. Hopefully that will resolve the issue. Is it a coincidence that I was having the DOOR OPEN error on the remote? From what I can tell they are hooked up correctly, but then again the red Door Input + wire was a complete guess (somewhat verified by a multimeter). Not too sure how the + Door Input wire should react to the door being open and closed.
shortcircuit161 
Silver - Posts: 556
Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: August 29, 2010
Location: United States
Posted: October 25, 2013 at 10:01 PM / IP Logged  
I believe you may have found the issue already. I would instead use the negative BLACK/ white wire and connect it to H2/6 and remove the wire from H2/12 altogether.
Directwire shows this -
Door Trigger      BLACK/ white      -      top/rear of fuse box
Notes: Two pin plug, top rear of fuse box.
farside792 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: October 21, 2013
Posted: October 26, 2013 at 10:30 AM / IP Logged  
Ok...I'm back on the task this morning. I tried removing the H2/12 violet wire all together, leaving H2/6 still connected to the BLACK/ white wire behind the fuse box and tada. It works like a champ following the original procedure that I posted. If you continue to hold down the brake and then use the remote to "start" the car, it immediately errors out.
Rather odd that the install cut sheet that came with the 5704V has an * next to H2/6 and H2/18 (along with parking brake) saying that they are required for MTS. Glad it's working now thought!!
Everything is buttoned back up and I'm a happy camper. The next project is trying to figure out how to connect a couple of the Aux connections to roll the windows up/down. It'd be nice to avoid having to purchase one of the 530T modules (unless someone has one for cheap!).
Thanks again for all of the assistance and suggestions!
rickalders 
Member - Posts: 15
Member spacespace
Joined: January 13, 2014
Posted: February 21, 2014 at 5:44 PM / IP Logged  
shortcircuit161 wrote:
All connections on H1 are correct.
H2/4 - Factory alarm disarm - if your tacoma has factory alarm, connect this wire to the blue/black wire found in the driver's kick panel.
H2/6 & H2/12 are used one OR the other, not both.
You won't need H2/12 for this setup. The Tacoma has a negative trigger for the door output. You don't need a diode but can use one if you wish to. Connect H2/6 to the BLACK/ white wire on the top rear of the fuse box.
H2/7 - not needed
H2/9 - not needed (used mainly for immobilizer bypass modules)
H2/10 - not needed
H2/19 - not needed
H2/21 - not needed
H2/22 - not needed (connected only if the ignition wiring had more than 1 Accessory wire to connect to. This Tacoma does not.
All connections on H3 are correct.
Everything else looks great!!
Good Luck!!
I'm installing the same alarm/RS. So, just to clarify, the H2/1, H2/10, and H2/18 aren't needed because they just mirror what the onboard relays in the H3 harness do?

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Tuesday, April 23, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer