ads al bypass weak ouput

Hi !! Thanks for reading -Acura Tl 2004 Automatique -Prostart ct-3471TW -ADS-AL CA ----- ADS-AL(DL)-HA1-EN Type 1 install -D2D 1way Got the basic setup working no problem. Factory alarm/door lock, open trunk. Even dissasemble the entire console to go behind the rear defrost button, and hook aux 2... So when i it aux 2 it use factory rear defrost ... The bypass output(Hood, Trunk, Door status) doesn't seems to work, let me explain. All three ouput act the same On the Remote Starter the hood input(-) when touch to ground works like it should. The first time I hook Bypass hood output(-) to Remote Starter input(-) it did nothing. So I checked to see if the Bypass was sending an output(-). Using my multimeter it showed 0v when hood closed, and ~12v hood open. So I assume it must be lack of amperage to trigger the Remote Starter relays. With my multimeter, I check between Remote Starter hood input(-) and Bypass hood output(-), and it showed 0.25mA... And when I check between my Remote Starter hood input(-) and ground it showed 250mA. I did run a wire from Bypass ground to car ground just to check but same result. I did go on the idatalink forum... It just got weird hehe Any thoughts ?? And I know I can use the factory wire... I just like perfection I guess :) Saying my Remote Starter doesn't work when we know it works, is just a waste of time, unless you have a great explanation.

It got weird because every time someone tried helping you, you refused to listen to the answer and just kept asking the same question over and over again... What do you mean by the hood input did nothing when you connected it? The only thing the hood input of the remote start will do is to prevent it from starting when the hood is up. If the vehicle does not have a factory hood pin, the bypass will NOT be able to supply it and you will have to install a hood pin. As for the door pins, how do you know that the output is not working? from what I can tell, that unit is not an alarm system so there is really no reason for a door trigger connection anyway... When you open the door / hood / trunk check and see if the light on the AL-CA module is flashing or doing anything. What does it do with each open? Did you test the outputs like they suggested (red meter lead to known 12v source, black lead to bypass output). What were the results? Are you 100% that the outputs are turned on in the programming features of the AL-CA? The easiest way to check is to plug it in to the computer and check the programming options (configure module).Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Come on man... what is there to not understand, Can you remove your post, I posted here to get a real answer

This is EXACTLY what happened on idata. I asked you to verify a few things so we could start from the beginning and not run around in circles, but you are ignoring my suggestions. In case you didn't read through, here are my questions / suggestions: 1) If the hood is open (with all connections made between remote start and bypass), will the remote start function? 2) Is there a factory installed hood pin switch? How did you verify? 3) What makes you believe the door / trunk triggers are not working correctly? What is happening / not happening that leaves you to this belief? 4) Watch idata module when opening the door / hood / trunk and watch for any activity on the LED. What happens with each trigger activated? 5) What are the results of the multimeter test (black lead on trigger ouput of bypass, red lead on known 12v source). These are all items that we need to check to try to help you... Until you perform these tests / answer the questions, there is no way for anyone to help you...Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

MM k, Did not realise it's the same guys Respecfully It's my first time posting here... I feel like you might not read/understand my topic... And having to repeat myself alot... English is my second language. 1)Yes,    after reading my topic back, I'm sorry I should have put that on line 6 2)There is one, verified whit the bypass, better explended in OP 3)When programming the Remote Starter. Had to ground hood input(-) 4)No led activity 5)Can't really explained it better than the OP, Do you need more. Thanks again for your time.

Its not all the same people, some shops tend to go on both forums. I did not see anywhere in the original post that that showed or even tested for a factory hood pin in the vehicle. Look at the hood latch itself and see if there are any wires coming off of it. Having to ground the hood pin input for programming doesn't tell me anything about the door nor trunk triggers... or did you mean to say you had to ground the door pin for programming? My point on 5. Was to verify the exact way you tested. By the results you describe, the bypass is working properly... At this point, it seems like the bypass is working properly and the remote start just simply will not recognize the signal from the bypass. You are probably better off just hardwiring to the car instead of dealing with the trouble you are going through...Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

     ProStart CT-3471TW Starter Kill circuit :

Soldering is fun!

I think you posted in the wrong thread... lol.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

... The cheap prostart must have a Bosh style relay, where as the Ads send a logic style signal... Kreg This is the way I installed the 'Starter Kill'. It will remote start, and will protect the starter from grind. but its when it's armed and I am unlocking the door it doesn't dissarme it. The light blink quickly like it's dissarmed, but When I try whit the key it don't start. Thanks !!

Not a ProStart user...  A few thoughts :1. Are you using the ProStart remote or Factory remote to unlock the car?  If you are using the ProStart remote    do the doors unlock?2. Are you programmed for Active or Passive Mode Starter Kill?  Default is Passive Mode and the unit will re-set    Starter Kill Mode in one minute after an Unlock if the ignition is not turned ON.  See Page 21 for more details.Soldering is fun!