remote start, what wires needed?

I'm attempting to install remote start in my 2011 Jeep Liberty, but having some trouble. I looked through the 2010 Jeep Liberty pictorial on here, but confused to what wires I actually need for my equipment. I'm hoping someone with more experience can help me out. It will be done in D2D mode opposed to W2W and if this thing ever gets installed, I will attempt to write up a pictorial/install guide for it. Remote start: Viper 4104 Bypass Module: XpressKit DB-ALL (already flashed to correct firmware) I also bought the CHTHD2 harness. This is the manual for the bypass module installation. Bypass Module Manual 1) On the T harness, there are open ended wires that I'm not sure if they need to be connected. Yellow/Black - RAP off connect to (-) driver door pin Yellow/Red - Can't find what this is There are others, but the diagram shows they are "N/A" which I'm guessing is not applicable/needed. 2) On actual viper remote start module, what wires are actually needed since I'm using the bypass module and in D2D? The connections for the remote start module are listed below. Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND H1/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay H1/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY H1/6 ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness (H2), 24-pin connector H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT* H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT H2/8 EMPTY ------------------------------------ H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT H2/19 BLUE** FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) H2/20 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT Remote Start (H3), 8-pin connector H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT H3/2 RED / WHITE +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY INPUT H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT H3/5 RED +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a (IF REQUIRED) OF FLEX RELAY H3/8 RED / BLACK +12V FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT Door Lock, 3-pin connector 1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT Any help is appreciated, thanks

Not having ever used one of these harness, it would look like you need to connect H1/1, H1/2, H1/5, and H3/1. Not sure if the TACH signal will be handled thru the DB-ALL or not. Also, you may have to connect H2/2 Neutral Safety, H2/16 (+) Brake Shutdown, H2/17 (-) Hood Pin, and H2/23 TACH input. They are not listed in the diagram and I don't know if they are handled through the harness.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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For remote start, you need the Neutral Safety grounded at all times for an Automatic, and you can install a switch if wanted. For manual, this goes to your neutral switch. Your lights will flash on and off 8 times if this is not grounded at remote start. It's not a matter of what you want to use -vs- what you need to use, depending on what all you want interfaced with the system. You Like, you won't need H1/6 unless you want to run something while the car is armed. I used it to flash LED strobes inside my 2006 Liberty when the system was armed. Tac signal can be from any one of the coil-on-plug signal wires, NOT the power (fire) wire. The -200mA outputs are mostly for relays, unless the circuit you put it to isn't have a higher than 200mA draw. Check to be sure of you have STARTER1, STARTER2, and so on. Some newer cars have Starter 1,2 and Ignition 1,2. TWO is used in cold weather conditions to put more current to the starting system/cranking. You won't need the HORN INPUT. H3/1, so you know, is to sense ignition ON and OFF. SO, when you turn ignition on, there are settings you can set,like to lock doors on ignition. Then, ignition off, the interior lights come on for 30 seconds, if you are using H2/7 for the interior light circuit. H2/4 and H2/24 you will need for your factory alarm system, which you will have to find all your splice points for these things. This is so your Viper will arm/disarm your factory alarm too. H2/5, you can use to release the glass on your tailgate. Door lock harness, self explanatory... All lock and unlock signals for all options are sent through here. H2/21: Might also be Turbo Timer input (-). If this touches ground, remote start is attempted, so make sure you tape up and tie-up this wire.

Both of your posts are very helpful. So going off of the bypass module manual linked above, I should only need to do the following for remote start? H1/1 and H1/2 for +12V and ground on remote start module H1/4 and H1/5 relayed so that lights can flash when I remote start the car (optional) H2/2 neutral safety input connected to any ground (if DB-ALL/harness doesn't handle it) H2/16 brake shutdown input (if DB-ALL/harness doesn't handle it) H2/17 hood pin (if I want to install this) H2/23 Tach signal (if tach doesn't work through DB-ALL) H3/1 Ignition input/output connect to pink wire on harness Yellow/black wire from harness for 'RAP OFF' connected to (-) driver door pin powerslave, you also mention connecting wires for factory alarm systems, trunk/glass release, door locks, etc. This makes sense doing it the conventional wire to wire way, but I was led to believe that the DB-ALL in the data mode (D2D) used the mux and CAN signals on the ignition switch connector to control all of these standard functions?

Finally had some time to work on this today. I ran a dedicated power line, installed the T harness, etc. I connected the following wires, based on this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krFfxRNyDCQ Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness (H2), 24-pin connector H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT      connected to ground Remote Start (H3), 8-pin connector H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT     connected to pink/white wire at ignition switch H3/5 RED +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT     connected to +12v line H3/8 RED / BLACK +12V FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT     connected to +12v line The unit shows it has power and the antenna blinks when a button is pressed on the remote. Door lock/unlock works properly, but having trouble getting the remote start to go. Whenever I try to remote start, the remote starter unit clicks 7 times, or when doing the 'diagnostic shutdown code' the antenna LED flashes 7 times. The error code in the manual says this is a 'Timer/Turbo/Manual Mode Error'. Not sure what this is or how to go about fixing it. Any ideas?

Forgot to add that the manual says this for the error code. Timer mode error: Ignition is on or shutdown input is active when activating timer mode. Turbo mode error: Turbo mode is programmed off, engine is not on or shutdown input is active. Manual mode error: MTS mode not enabled.

Looks like the 4104 is still in Manual Transmission Mode.  That is the Default setting.   If you have an Automatic Transmission you should change Menu 3, Item 1 to Option 2. Soldering is fun!

Just watched the video. Not trying to be a buzz kill, but you should not use those scotch locks. They are a failed connection waiting to happen. Strip, Splice, Solder, and Tape for a solid connection. I used those on my first install, never again. The toggle switch is needed for remote starting. Without it or in the OFF position it prevents the remote starter from starting. Last. Install the hood pin. It is a important safety feature that prevents the remote starter from starting when the hood is open. Maybe saving someone some fingers should it start while they where in the engine compartment. I would recommend a tilt switch type. The one in the Viper kit are prone to corrosion and fail to work. I'm just a hobbyist at this stuff, not a pro. I don't do an install without the hood pin. Otherwise nice job on your first install and getting it to work.When all else fails, Read the Instructions

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I wish I could take credit for making that video, but that was just something I found similar to mine that helped lol. Switching it from manual mode to automatic transmission made it work though! Also, I agree on those quick splice-in T connectors. I soldered and heatshrinked all of my connections. As for the hood pin, I may do it eventually, but the plan was to just disconnect the safety switch before working on the jeep or taking it in for service. If I eventually sell it I'll probably put the hood pin in or just strip the remote start out lol. The only things left are to figure out how to trigger the rear defroster and to pop trunk glass. Not sure if I have to program them first or just need to figure out the right key press combo. Also, the panic alarm gets triggered if the car doors are closed/locked and then a remote start is attempted. Hopefully there is a setting to disable that, but not too sure.