power distribution

Oh - (P)ower (O)ff (R)eset? (P)achyderms (O)ften (R)emember? (P)eople (O)ughtta (R)ead?

ronemca wrote: * * Note **  NON-EXPERT speaking... As I understand it, there are three types of auto CB's; Type 1, 2 & 3.  Type 1 is push a button to reset Type 2 is power cycle to reset Type 3 is "auto" reset after cool-down (no power cycle, no button) This is the type I purchased.

I'm even less than one, explaining why I asked. :) Thanks for the intel- that's the kinda education I was looking for!"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"

POR = Power On Reset or Reboot, or Power-On Reset etc. Common "chip" jargon (uPCs, PICs etc) and often used to describe circuits that go thru a reset/reboot after a brown out or power outage. I don't know about the type 1, 2, 3 etc. I have never used it and I suspect it may vary with the region or profession etc as do 1 wire alternators (meaning D+/L only aka 2 or 3 wire elsewhere) or SPDT aka changeover relays (aka 5-pin but 5 pin might be dual output SPST). In my experience CBs are manual reset else auto or self resetting. As I said, reset after power cycling is rare and in my circles considered "manual" since it is NOT auto or self resetting - ie, they require another action (beyond the control of the breaker) to reset.

burntkat wrote: ronemca wrote: * * Note **  NON-EXPERT speaking... As I understand it, there are three types of auto CB's; Type 1, 2 & 3.  I'm even less than one, explaining why I asked. :) Thanks for the intel- that's the kinda education I was looking for!

And thanks for that; I take great pleasure from feeling as if I am contributing. 

ronemca wrote: * Note **  NON-EXPERT speaking... As I understand it, there are three types of automotive CB's; Type 1, 2 & 3.  Type 1 is push a button to reset Type 2 is power cycle to reset Type 3 is "auto" reset after cool-down (no power cycle, no button) This is the type I purchased.

Okay - I got this wrong; the Type II definition is correct, but the I and III are reversed. I did order the ones I wanted (sealed - no button - reset by themselves after cooling down) but those are actually Type I not Type III. Sorry.

And hence why I rarely worry about 'types' and prefer the raw description.   [ LOL - I once rewrote the spec for a Type 0, 1 or 2 device. I eliminated its Type 1 version. (And whether Type 0 or 2 was merekly a link.) ] Yours IMO & experience are self or auto reseting breakers as opposed to manual resets or blown fuses. Not suited for certain loads (fridges come to mind) but excellent for occasionally peaky loads (auxiliary battery feeds) or criticals like headlights.

oldspark wrote: < snip > Yours IMO & experience are self or auto reseting breakers as opposed to manual resets or blown fuses.

Absolutely correct, Sir.

oldspark wrote: <snip > ...excellent for occasionally peaky loads (auxiliary battery feeds) or criticals like headlights.

And they even fit into the little 4-slot fuse block! So the project box is complete, and the various leads in/out of the box have been lengthened, soldered, heatshrunk & tie-wrapped. I have installed a six-conductor disconnect so that I can remove the box from the truck in seconds...should I need to perform maintenance. The last steps are: 1) introduce the other side of the six-conductor disconnect into the aux lighting wires under the hood... 2) pull one of the two single-channel wireless switches and install the two-channel wireless switch... 3) strap down the box somewhere... 4) measure/cut/crimp the primary feeder from the POS terminal of the battery But since it has been consistently 18-ish degrees (Cº) below freakin' zero - that's had to wait.

I just KNOW there are at least twenty-one eager, dedicated people following my every move on this project, and -- not wanting to disappoint or dull their collective interest -- I thought it best to post an update: Nothing has changed. I work horrendous hours, and absolutely positively every single time there would have been a couple of hours to finalize this adventure...it has been so friggin' cold that I just can't get into it. It's insane. I have put up an ad on the free classified site, and talked to all of my buddies - trying to find an INDOOR garage space for a couple of hours, but to no avail. Lots of people have double garages, but everybody has so damn much clutter that there's no room to do anything but squeeze out the partly-open door of whatever vehicle you park in there. AND the space is un-insulated and unheated. I guess I would have been a little more willing to compromise if I had NO lighting solution...but I have full access to everything so far (it's all mounted and energized and working) so I CAN put off the upgrade until it's reasonable to work outside again. The way it's looking now, that'll probably be on July the 18th between 1:30 and 4:00 PM. Can't wait!

OK, so it's summer now. What's the excuse now? ;P"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"

Hah! It's funny you should ask - I installed the box on the weekend. It was a longer job than it shoulda been, because I am not expert...and as such manipulated the wiring in an inefficient manner. (I had to add length to a bunch of the wires so that everything would come together) But I accomplished ONE goal: the battery is now completely clear of connectors! It was a rat's nest before, and now it has absolutely ZERO extra wires on it. (I ran one main feeder from the stud on the fuse box) Even more importantly (and surprisingly) it worked the first time!!! I didn't test it in any way - I just crimped and heat-shrank and tie-wrapped until everything was connected...re-inserted the main barrel fuse...and hit the buttons on the wireless remote one at a time. All three lighting systems activated just as they should. Immensely gratifying. I couldn't have done it without extensive patience & guidance from M. Ween. Thanks, Man. In fact, the job is not completely finished. Since I was futzing with it for the whole day...I ran out of time and daylight before I had a chance to properly stow/mount the two bundles (one being the project box, and the other being the two wireless receivers which are affixed to each other) They're in their final location (sitting beneath the K&N CAI filter) but I need to tidy up the wiring. Alot.