hornet 740t and avital 4003l rs

Folks- I have the following units here on my kitchen table: Hornet 740T (basically an old Viper system) Avital 4003L Add-on Remote Start I am going to have some questions, will have details in the next post. I want to get this thread started so I can refer another member to it instead of polluting their thread with my questions.

OK so here's the deal: The 4003L (add-on Remote Start) clearly says in the instructions that it can e interfaced with a Factory (ie: OEM from the builder of the car) Alarm, or an aftermarket Alarm. In the instructions for the 4003L, there's several wires that are said to only be needed or "available" when adding a Receiever and Remote (P/N 543H and 474L, respectively). Namely, the following wires: Harness 1: H1/5 Orange - "Ground when locked" H1/6 Brown - "Horn Output" H1/7 RED / White - "Trunk Release Output" (wires 6 and 7 are clearly handled by the 740T (alarm) Siren and aux channels, and optional to begin with). Wire 5, I am not sure if I'd need, considering I have no factory alarm or the specified receiver) Door Lock Harness: (this would duplicate the alarm's functionality, so clearly not needed) OK so all of that seems mostly self-explanatory- though I am not sure about the "Ground when locked".... but here's the thing- H1 Harness has two wires: H1/1: Light GREEN/ Black (Factory Alarm Disarm) H1/2: GREEN / WHITE (Factory Alarm Rearm) These wires are not specified to be unneeded if one doesn't have a factory alarm. But clearly if one doesn't have a factory alarm, one can not attach them to the nonexistent wires... .. which leads us to this: How does the Alarm know to disable the built-in shock sensor and ignore the door switches when the vehicle is running under Remote Start?

From the avital You will not need the ground when armed unless you are wiring up a relay for anti-grind. You will not need horn, trunk release, factory alarm disarm or factory alarm rearm. You will need the yellow ignition input from the hornet to coonect to the 4003 yellow wire not the vehicles ignition anymore. If the starter kill is wired in from the hornet, make sure you catch the motor side and not the key side with your purple starter wire. You will also need the WHITE/ blue activation input from the 4003 to be triggered by an aux from the hornet.Advanced

Thanks for the reply. Neither system is installed yet, so I am tempted to wire the Hornet's starter kill through the Avital's starter integration wiring. I do have one point I am not yet clear on though- how does the alarm ignore the onboard shock sensor while the vehicle is running?

OK on the main harness, I have entirely removed the following wires: H1/1 light GREEN/ black (factory alarm disarm) H1/2 GREEN / WHITE (factory alarm rearm) H1/5 Orange (GWA aka "Ground when locked") H1/7 RED / white Trunk release H1/3 (+ IGN out to alarm) is now connected to the Yellow wire (+IGN sense IN) on the Hornet alarm (starting to see a pattern here, since they're both DEI kits, there's a lot of "color to color"-- however you can't do that blindly, of course!)

0440hrs 29DEC13, fully 12 hours after I started on this integration of both systems, and I am just about ready for the installation into the vehicle. Good thing I'm not doing this for a living, eh? ;) The siren that came with the alarm went bad while sitting on the shelf (it sat in a box in my garden shed for 9 years, so hardly surprising). I have another siren (aftermarket, different than the "revenger" 6-tone) on the way from an alarm vendor in KY. It ought to be here early next week. Decided against using the horn output for the start system, for the time being. At some point in the future I may wire in the strobes off of that output, but that can happen later. Bought a pulse-delay module (DEI 528T) from the shop I used to install for. I notice it's not weather-sealed, and since relays live and die by the cleanliness of their contacts, I'll put it in a small WT project enclosure and shouldn't have to deal with it after. But now, I'm freakin' tired.. The time got away from me, I should have been asleep hours ago!

Finally received the replacement siren- it's loud, but not terribly so. Now, the Hella Supertone horns I've installed- THEY are loud. I'm going to put them on a delay module so that they don't chirp with the siren on arm/disarm. Also cut the loop on the replacement siren so that it doesn't use all 6 tones, just a warble that sounds similar to a police siren. Since the vehicle won't be in motion while it's sounding, this won't be an issue. Other than that, I need to get a few more rolls of wire as I am out of white and blue for the zone expansion, (of course I realize any color will work, but I don't want to be sloppy with this)and get to the install- weather and light have been an issue, as when it's been light out, it's been raining, and when it hasn't been raining it's been dark.

Passing along some intel here, answering the question I've had since this started: "How does the standalone alarm system know to ignore shock sensor, etc, when the remote start system is engaged?" From the Hornet 740T install manual (and, DEI being DEI, similar to other DEI systems):

DEI Hornet 740T Install manual, page 19 wrote: ]bypassing sensor inputs There are times when you need to temporarily bypass all sensor inputs to the unit, such as when remote starting the vehicle. Anytime an auxiliary channel output is used, all inputs are bypassed for 5 seconds. During the 5 second bypass period, ground can be supplied to the H1/6 BLUE wire without triggering the unit. When the 5 second bypass period ends, if the unit detects ground on the H1/6 BLUE wire, all trigger inputs except the door trigger input will remain bypassed until 5 seconds after ground is removed from the BLUE wire. This can be done using the status output of a 551T or 561T remote start unit as shown below:

(You'll have to check out the install manual- I have a PDF of it I snagged off the web, but I can't post the pic as I am still a provisional member here) Basically, it shows how you connect the (-) Status Output from the RS unit to BLUE Wire, H1/6 Zone 1 Input. Of course, you use an isolating diode, with the band pointing toward the RS unit. This was the last "Gotcha" I didn't have an answer to, keeping me from installing. BTW, on the Avital 4003L unit, it's the 4-Wire Satellite Harness, Pin 1, Blue Wire. I am going to run some diode-isolated wires off this zone (about 3) and deadend them, as I am planning on adding a couple more sensors (Field Disturbance, Headlight module) before all is said and done. At this point, though, it's going to be a while before I can install. The weather's being a serious pain- rain and cold.