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one pinswitch to rule them all


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burntkat 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 02, 2014 at 8:07 PM / IP Logged  
... and in the darkness, blind them. (passes out from boredom)
No, wait. Wrong book.
Here's what I am up to- I need to use one pinswitch to report to two zones, and ne'er the tw'ain shall meet...
OK, I need to have a hood pinswitch for two reasons:
1- multiplexed zone for the alarm
2- shutdown/interlock for the remote start
Vehicle is a 1989 S-10 Blazer, not that it matters, because the pinswitches ain't stock, and a hood is a hood is a hood.
My question is this:
Since there are two seperate systems which work at seperate times, and I want 24/7 protection for the vehicle when I am not driving it, is it possible to install one pinswitch and have it report to two functions without bleedover...
details:
Alarm - Hornet 740T (basically a Viper with another name)
switch will report to the BLUE wire, Multiplexed zone (as do pretty much all the other sensors except door pinswitches and onboard shock
Remote start- Avital 4003L add-on system.
switch will report to the GREY wire, hood killswitch. Basically shuts the vehicle off if it's remote started and the hood is opened, and will prevent start if the hood is open (safety interlock).
Proposed solution: I am using DEI adjustable pinswitches (came with the 4003L kit). It offers one spade terminal on the end of the plastic plunger. Crimp a female spade terminal to a piece of wire (small-gauge, it's just a switching input). Solder to it, two short pieces of wire, making a "Y". On each of those, solder a IN4007 (or similar) diode, with the band facing the switch. To the other end of each of those diodes, attach one of the zone wires mentioned above.
This would be just like isolating door pinswitches in newer cars, which control different features of the comfort/convenience systems from the factory- except all focused on one switch reporting to two zones, without allowing "crosstalk" between the systems/zones.
I used to install professionally (mobile, as well as residential and commercial), but it's been literally decades since I did. I believe I am onthe right track here, want to borrow a couple braincells from people with more current experience....
"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: January 02, 2014 at 11:07 PM / IP Logged  
Without specific knowledge on the modules and modern vehicles etc, IMO it should be ok. The "line to grounded pin" diodes will isolate the respective circuits.
The only snag I can think of is if a "true" GND is needed, but that should not be an issue since such circuits usually define "low" as under 1/2 or 1/3rd the rail voltage, else something like 1V to 2V etc. They rarely require any closer than a voltage drop to ground anyhow.
(It's not like my recent write about LED stop lights deactivating cruise controls & remote starts etc - LEDs will result in at least a 2V rise above GND and usually it'll be above 6V (eg, 3 series red LEDs).
Hopefully others can confirm...
Man I miss Howie.
burntkat 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 02, 2014 at 11:59 PM / IP Logged  
Who's Howie?
I gave the specific modules:
Hornet 740T (Blue wire, "multiplex sensor (-) input)
Avatal 4003L (Grey wire, "Hood pinswitch (-) input).
I can confirm, neither of these needs a good, "Hard ground".
"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"
burntkat 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 03, 2014 at 12:31 AM / IP Logged  
I am highly confident this ought to work.
I have built two harnesses ("y" cables of wire and diodes as above), to go two each pinswitch (I am being a little "belt and suspenders" here, and running two pinswitches. Yes,I could have run one for each circuit- but I am doing this to secure both sides of the hood. Perhaps a little overkill, but it's cheap.
"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: January 03, 2014 at 4:39 AM / IP Logged  
I was going to suggest 2 switches. Not for ease thru separation, but rather - redundancy in case one fails. (Hence still needing diodes.)
One fault with pin switches - they are not a fail-safe design (they are normally open) and considering their importance in remote start applications...
Are you also inserting a diode in the OEM pinswitch circuit? (It probably is not necessary, but it does depend...)
I still have no specific knowledge on the modules involved.
And I haven't conversed with Howard for ages - - probably not since the mods killed him.
POST EDIT - sorry, I misread Who's Howie as How's Howie.
Howie is a very experienced installer etc that knew many cars and systems and (IMO) was legendary for quick or simple solutions and often prevented heartache.
This site got wizzed off with something he did so he got banned.
burntkat 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 03, 2014 at 6:13 AM / IP Logged  
While I am at this I think I might use it for an underhood LED light as well.
The door pinswitches, I am doing a 2-wire dome supervision system- like this: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/toyota_dome.gif
On the wire to the pinswitch, I also have tagged on the switch trigger wire. It's already prefabbed on my kitchen table, the only thing on that zone is the door pinswitch, shouldn't really need a diode (but yes, couldn't hurt).
Thanks for checking my logic here.
"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"
burntkat 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: January 06, 2014 at 11:50 PM / IP Logged  
Did some metering out with the y-harness installed on the rig, looks like it'll work a treat. For sake of simplicity and because I have beaucoup pinswitches now (yay, ebay bulk lots, cheap!) I will just install another and wire the LED light to that, with the pinswitch giving direct ground.
Can't wait to get this installed, but it's either been dark, wet cold, or all three of late. I need to get it done soon, as have a duplicate of every piece of this build inbound, acquired for my wife's Grand Cherokee. She's seen me wiring weird black boxes together with bits of colorful wire on the kitchen table for weeks now, if I start over from scratch with the previous bits in a corner, she's going to think I've lost the last bits of my mind...
"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"

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