viper remote start triggers alarm jeep

After a lot of help from these forums, I finally got my remote start working. It was the Viper 4104 paired with the XpressKit DB-ALL installed into a 2011 Jeep Liberty. The CHTHD2 harness was also used, which only left a few wires connections to be soldered in. It has a weird problem where every now and then, doing a remote start triggers the factory alarm. Not sure how to go about fixing this. page 11-16 has options/menus for the viper module http://pdf.ampire.de/automate/N4114A.pdf I ran a dedicated power line from my battery and my grounds to a bolt in the driver side kick panel where other factory electronics are grounded. Wires connected in install (bolded ones are connected): Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND H1/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay H1/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY H1/6 ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness (H2), 24-pin connector H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT H2/2 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT H2/4 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT H2/5 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT* H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT H2/8 EMPTY ------------------------------------ H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT H2/11 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT H2/13 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT H2/15 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) H2/18 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT H2/19 BLUE** FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) H2/20 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT H2/21 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT Remote Start (H3), 8-pin connector H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT H3/2 RED / WHITE +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY INPUT H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT H3/5 RED +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a (IF REQUIRED) OF FLEX RELAY H3/8 RED / BLACK +12V FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT Door Lock, 3-pin connector 1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT 2 EMPTY NOT USED 3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT

Are you in D2D or W2W mode?

It honestly sounds like the DBALL firmware wasnt flashed properly or is partially defective. I have seen similar issues like this before.

It's in D2D mode and I went through the flashing process using the XKLoader2 and current chrysler firmware. Not sure how it could've been done wrong considering all other functions work and the remote start process works without triggering the factory alarm 80-90% of the time. So what would your suggestion be to do with it?

Try setting the Smart OEM Alarm Control feature to Safelock or Disabled. If it's already set to one of these two options, set it to Enabled. The instructions to set this is in the manual for the DBALL. If the feature is set to Disabled, make sure the factory alarm is disarmed before trying to start it. If the alarm still goes off, then it's not providing a (-) feed to the keysense wire. The Keysense wire is Violet/Brown in the ignition harness. You can test it with a volt meter (NOT A TEST LIGHT) by hooking the black lead to this wire, and touching the red lead to a +12 source. Arm the car and try to remote start it. If you never see ~12 volts on your meter, this wire isn't getting the signal from the alarm. If this is the case, look at Installation 5 in the DBALL manual to install the diode and the Keysense wire.

freqsounds wrote: Try setting the Smart OEM Alarm Control feature to Safelock or Disabled. If it's already set to one of these two options, set it to Enabled. The instructions to set this is in the manual for the DBALL. If the feature is set to Disabled, make sure the factory alarm is disarmed before trying to start it. If the alarm still goes off, then it's not providing a (-) feed to the keysense wire. The Keysense wire is Violet/Brown in the ignition harness. You can test it with a volt meter (NOT A TEST LIGHT) by hooking the black lead to this wire, and touching the red lead to a +12 source. Arm the car and try to remote start it. If you never see ~12 volts on your meter, this wire isn't getting the signal from the alarm. If this is the case, look at Installation 5 in the DBALL manual to install the diode and the Keysense wire.

Thanks, I will check these out. For more information, the remote start procedure works normally about 80-90% of the time. When looking into the locked car I can see the red light on the dash blinking to indicate the security system is enabled. When I try to remote start, it flashes the headlights/disables the alarm, starts the car, flashes headlights/rearms the alarm. The times when it fails though, the button is pressed, the car alarm starts beeping, the car starts, but continues beeping until someone turns off the alarm. Although I will test what you said, would either of these options possibly help in the viper manual? Set to remote start only and then 2 pulses? OEM Alarm Disarm Output    -With Unlock    -Before Unlock    -Remote Start Only OEM Alarm Disarm Pulses    -1    -2

dtbingle wrote: Thanks, I will check these out. For more information, the remote start procedure works normally about 80-90% of the time. When looking into the locked car I can see the red light on the dash blinking to indicate the security system is enabled. When I try to remote start, it flashes the headlights/disables the alarm, starts the car, flashes headlights/rearms the alarm. The times when it fails though, the button is pressed, the car alarm starts beeping, the car starts, but continues beeping until someone turns off the alarm. Although I will test what you said, would either of these options possibly help in the viper manual? Set to remote start only and then 2 pulses? OEM Alarm Disarm Output    -With Unlock    -Before Unlock    -Remote Start Only OEM Alarm Disarm Pulses    -1    -2

When the alarm is going off, can you hit unlock to shut it off? It sounds like the car is intermittently getting the disarm signal. Next time the alarm goes off, try hitting the brake pedal to see if it shuts down. I did an install on a Nissan Frontier a couple weeks ago and it would do all kinds of weird things until I swapped the DBALL2. It would always remote start, but the door locks and brake pedal wouldn't work. The customer forgot to put his keys in one day and the truck died in the middle of an intersection! So far the new one is working fine, and the old one is in another car working OK. It could possibly be the firmware or hardware version. You could try doing a hard reset and reprogramming to see if it helps. The settings in the Viper unit will only control the Viper's wires. The transponder receives the unlock command and takes over from there based on its settings. Although it wouldn't hurt to try, I don't think it would have an effect. You can try the 2 pulses but if arm and disarm are the same command on the databus, you'll essentially disarm and rearm in a matter of seconds! If it doesn't work, you can always switch it back.No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)

Okay so I tried what you said with the DBALL settings. It was defaulted to "Enabled". I reflashed it with the settings to "SafeLock" and it's been a couple days and many remote starts with no problems. This seems to have worked! Thanks for the help!