2011 jeep liberty big three wire upgrade

Point taken. (Was that a bad pun or not?) Still got to be less drop than using a wire though.Test before boxing up.

VERY good pun! But it was THREE points - both in (decimal) places & score. Funny tho how it is not the first time I have seen that "way off" order of magnitude for +12V vehicle resistances. The last I recall was a the12volt expert (and experienced and clever etc) quoting 1 Ohm. At the time I was wondering if they were used to domestic AC supplies where 1 Ohm is often the mandated maximum resistance (impedance!!) for a safety/protection earth/ground... Or if we are so blasé juggling V, A, & Ohms with V, mA & milli-Ohms we sometimes forget the 'milli'...? (ie V=IR etc) Anyhow... By "less than a wire" I assume you mean body/chassis? I agree, but I often hear of "poor body conductivity". Now whether that is a false belief as opposed to any real experience, or bad or oxidised connections, or some incredibly rusted vehicle...? Some claim that some body panels have so few (spot) welds etc. I do find it doubtful that a body else its chassis can be so poorly bonded electrically - except for fiberglass bodies and plastic or balsa chassis (ha ha). But that a chassis is strong metalically yet has poor electrical conductivity? (I wonder what corrosion would result?) Same for monocoque constructions.     But if in doubt, I'd say use both - ie, use the body/chassis and add a parallel wire. The total resistance can not exceed the lowest resistance of the two.

Only came across it once on a very old VW where we were installing an alarm and remote start a colleague had installed it and nothing was happening. I checked it out, found he had grounded it above a kickpanel and the conductivity between that and the battery NEG had vanished. In retrospect that same model suffered from instrument panel gremlins because of bad grounding.Test before boxing up.

Also looked at a Mercedes that had returned from an auto body shop with supposedly Mr.Clifford not working. I actually found NOTHING worked. Traced back to the (rear mounted) battery, asked the obvious question, "was this a tail end shunt?" Yes how did you know. Pulled battery grounding bolt, changed it for a new one and scraped off the new paintwork around it down to bare metal. Immediate result!Test before boxing up.

Thanks for all the info! Successful install. Aside from the fact that I decided to do it in 10F/-6F wind chill weather, it went smoothly. Ran two 4 gauge power wires back to my amps, grounded amps to rear seat brackets, then ran a 4 gauge run from alternator + to battery +, alternator bracket to battery - and then double run of 4 gauge from battery - to chassis. Nothing started on fire and everything works!