viper 4704 rs on 2001 es300 problem

Hello first time caller here...first time install of a Viper 4704 RS on my 2001 Lexus ES300. Never installed one of these before, though I am pretty good with wiring, stereos, complex electrical wiring, JDM power folding mirrors etc. Installed this start system but it will not start the car, get parking light flash, some clicks, no crank, remote buzzes "remote start error" I get no error code flashes from the parking lights. I know enough to know I certainly could have screwed something up, that is the most likely scenario...*however* I am getting the feeling the unit could be bad... Equipment: 4704v Viper remote start system PKALL transponder bypass, installed and programmed successfully. I have the service manual for the car, verified all wire colors myself with the wiring diagrams, used a "turbo timer harness" to make my own t-harness for the ignition wires so I could tap and solder these off the car. I have checked/tested: -The systems works outside of starting. Lock/unlock, trunk, aux 1 for windows etc. all work -I have the bitwriter tool, I set the mode to auto trans, changed to voltage sensing with 1.2 sec crank, to eliminate any issues there. -If I force an error, i.e. open the hood, the unit will fail remote start and give me the error flashes. -I verified wire colors for the ignition wires. Car will start with the key normally. -back probed the violet start wire, goes to 12v when I start with key, get no voltage(??) when remote start -back probed all the 12v feeds from ignition harness, R, R/B, R/W all have constant 12v input. - Back probed IGN1, IGN2, Start wires from the RS: all of them have trace voltage (.03v) and go briefly to 0v/ground during remote start?? This is totally unexpected. Given the above, is there anything I could have screwed up that would cause the above to happen? As far as I can figure, the RS unit simply connects the input to the output during remote start...if I have verified input, and still don't get the right output...could the unit be bad?? I just always assume an electronic unit is good and I screwed something up, 99% of the time that is true ;-) But in this case I just can't figure out what else could be wrong. What else to verify? Any help for a n00b is totally appreciated!

Please try the following:- Count the number of clicks you hear and let me know. Are the H3 RED, RED / WHITE and RED / BLACK all connected to a 12V+ constant? Have you tried to R/Start with the key in the ignition? Is the NSS switch plugged in and turned on? Is the BLACK/ WHITE at H2/2 grounded? Bet it's one of the above. Never ever had a faulty unit. Test before boxing up.

Firstly thanks for the help! In regards to your questions: Please try the following:-

Count the number of clicks you hear and let me know. I hear 3 distinct clicks, the 3rd sounds like multiple relays clicking at the same time, if that makes any sense? Are the H3 RED, RED / WHITE and RED / BLACK all connected to a 12V+ constant? Yes they are. I did split up the circuits, R and R/B to the AM1 30 amp feed, R/W to the 40amp AM2 feed. Verified both are constant 12v via wiring diagram and probing during key on start etc. Have you tried to R/Start with the key in the ignition? Yes, it does not work. In the first two positions, same behavior does not start. In RUN I get no relay clicks from the unit, no start. Is the NSS switch plugged in and turned on? Yes. Have turned the switch off, I get the error flash code for NSS. Is the BLACK/ WHITE at H2/2 grounded? Yes grounded to chassis. Never ever had a faulty unit. Yeah I am still thinking I've screwed something up. - I also verified that jumping violet to RED / black on the RS harness engages the starter at any time. I can start the car that way with the key in run. I also jumped this during remote start attempt, even with starter cranking the whole time it never starts. When I have a little more time, I can verify the whole thing: jump the inputs to the IGN1, IGN2, and then start outputs to see if it can run the car. I am guessing this will work...since the inputs and starter are good. Backprobing the outputs again, I think I am seeing a quick flash of voltage on the IGN1 and 2 outputs, my way old DVM is not that quick. It is like the Viper unit is turning on quick and shutting back down and not actually attempting crank for some reason, with no error code from the parking lights.

3 clicks says no or low RPM. "Is the NSS switch plugged in and turned on? Yes. Have turned the switch off, I get the error flash code for NSS". Assuming you've of course tried it with the switch on. Do something silly for me, use the tach sense wire, WHITE/ violet and connect it to pin 9 on the OBD ll (data connector) socket, program to tach sensing and program for tach. Also you might want to use a simple test light on the outputs. One last thought, the footbrake. Should read 0V+ until you physically push it home. I've had a couple of cars mainly BMW where the footbrake circuit gets energised during the process, you can tell because just after initiating the R/S the brake lights come on.Test before boxing up.

Got it. I think this old car doesn't have tach on the OBD-II, if it did I would have just wired in the tach that way but I can check, was just avoiding some extra work to run under the hood for the tach. But I can do that as a test run the wire over to tach and see if that does it. Yes I have the NSS into "on" position of course. I'll test the footbrake wire, don't think the brake lights up in autostart. I'll get to this in a couple days, away for the weekend for now I can pick up and report results back sunday or monday. Thanks again!

Also try pit-stop mode. As in, start engine with key, make sure your foot is NOT on the brake, activate remote starter. It's supposed to click a couple of times, put on the parking lights steady. Then you could turn the key off, take it out, exit car and go run an errand and the car stays running. So try that. If that works, I'd look for a bad starter output on the remote starter, and/or you could have your accessory/ignition backwards. If the car's ignition 1 drops out during crank, it'll never remote start. So make sure that your pink and pink/white are connected to wires in the car that DON'T drop during starting. And the orange wire would be connected to the wire that shows power in acc/run but not start....although on a Toyota you don't really need to power accessory anyway.

I solved the problem...of course as it goes it is always something dumb. I put (+) to the neutral input (BLACK/ white) duh...changed to (-) everything works great. Thanks all for the help. Glad I didn't fry anything in there.

Ah it least my diagnostic skills seem to have rubbed off! "Is the BLACK/ WHITE at H2/2 grounded"? "Yes grounded to chassis." Really?   Test before boxing up.