2015 silverado 2500 idatalink gm7

Hi Everyone, I've been using Crimestopper remote starts for ages since they're cheap and have performed reasonably well for me. I recently purchased a 2015 Silverado 2500 Duramax. I bought a Crimestopper SP-502 remote start on ebay for $97.90 shipped and an iDatalink AL-CA (or ADS-AL-CA) for $49 shipped and had Best Buy flash the DL-GM7 firmware on it for me. I installed everything, set the idatalink to Data mode, and programmed my the module turning the key off and on a bunch and watching the LED, completing the "module programming". Then the instructions have you identify the 10th VIN character and match it to the corresponding year but it doesn't say what to do with that information, next the instructions have "module diagnostics". I used to install remote starts professionally, I've installed close to a hundred systems over the years but not on anything newer than a 2006 Silverado or GM make. The first thing I noticed was wrong was: after turning the key (ignition) off I can hear a bunch of stuff clicking and making noise in the engine bay, and it goes on for about 5-10 seconds. Also: sometimes unlock doesn't unlock the doors, and about half of the time when this happens and I use the key to get in the factory alarm starts the chirp countdown until I get the ignition turned on. Half of the time the factory alarm is just disarmed with unlock but the locks just didn't work. Finally: just once when I remote started the truck it went to factory alarm. I drove around with it installed as described for a few weeks. I pulled the alarm and idatalink out tonight and was going to just use the factory remote start until I get this figured out, and I noticed when I turn the ignition off it still clicks and makes noise in the engine bay for 5-10 seconds. I have fully de-installed the crimestopper and idatalink and put it back to factory so I don't get why it's still clicking and making noise for 10 seconds. I can't find hardly any info online for these 2015 2500's or even the 2014 1500's. The tech at Best Buy who flashed the module said I couldn't just hardwire the idatalink for this truck and not use data mode. I can't imagine why or if he's right or not. I appreciate any help you guys can give me. I read that on some of the 2010 GM's you had to flash the idatalink, program it in the truck, flash it again, and do final in truck programming. Maybe I need to do that for the 2015 too? Thanks again.

How do you have Everything wired up ? I've never heard of a system that couldn't be hardwired. I don't know crimestopper stuff as I use primarily dei stuff. If you go to idatalink.com you can download the complete guide for your truck. Follow the guide to a t and you shouldn't have any issues. As far as the vin part it's just showing you how to verify the year of vehicle. One your done the programming procedure you should be good too go.If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

ads bypasses can be hardwired to any remote start as long as that remote start has the given outputs you require. you need double pulse on unlock. noises in the engine bay are normal What is the module flashed for, that will determine if it can be hardwired. Where did you get your module on line?

If you look at the install manual for the ADS module you will notice that you must hardwire all the connections for this truck. You can't use the data cable. Follow the instructions and you shouldn't have a problem. The noises you are likely hearing are normal.sparky

Thanks for the input guys, here's some more info.

chev104275 wrote: How do you have Everything wired up ? I've never heard of a system that couldn't be hardwired. I don't know crimestopper stuff as I use primarily dei stuff. If you go to idatalink.com you can download the complete guide for your truck. Follow the guide to a t and you shouldn't have any issues. As far as the vin part it's just showing you how to verify the year of vehicle. One your done the programming procedure you should be good too go.

I wired it up like the idatalink pdf said to, but I just now looked at their downloads again and it seems they have an updated version at lest for the ADS module now. SP-500 series Crimestoppers are similar to DEI's stuff, not quite as nice though. But $100 with 2-way FM paging vs $400 for Viper... BTW thanks for clearing up the VIN thing.

auto enhancers wrote: ads bypasses can be hardwired to any remote start as long as that remote start has the given outputs you require. you need double pulse on unlock. noises in the engine bay are normal What is the module flashed for, that will determine if it can be hardwired. Where did you get your module on line?

The module has DL-GM7 firmware flashed on it. I got it new on ebay. The thing with the noises it this truck didn't make the noises until I started playing with this alarm, and my brother also has the same truck and his doesn't make all these clicking sounds in the engine bay when you turn the key off like mine does. It sounds like the ignition is being turned on and off about 15 times and halfway through part of it stops and the rest keeps clicking for another 5 seconds or so but the radio and interior cab electronics don't act like the ignition is going off and on. I should put a meter on it and see.

sparkie wrote: If you look at the install manual for the ADS module you will notice that you must hardwire all the connections for this truck. You can't use the data cable. Follow the instructions and you shouldn't have a problem. The noises you are likely hearing are normal.

When I looked at these manuals for the first time a few weeks ago the ADS manual showed hardwire only but now there's a new version they just uploaded which shows datamode as an option. ADS-AL(DL)-GM7-EN That is the new version. Page 19 & 20. The DBI version still says hardwire only. What's the difference between ADS and DBI? Also my crimestopper alarm has 2 data modes, OFA and SL. I think SL didn't work and OFA was sorta half-assed. The tech at Best Buy who flashed the module printed me the whole 30 page manual and whatever one he printed me had a schematic too and definitely didn't say hardwire only. I can't find the one I printed or the one he printed. I know I threw one away because I was pretty sure they were duplicates but I can't find the one I kept now. I'll give it another stab from a fresh install (why I took it all out and went back to factory last night). It's 100ºF and the relative humidity is 48% here in Phoenix so my motivation to work on it is not at it's peak. I think I'll just hardwire the module to save some headache. Thanks for the input, I'll let you know how it works out whenever I get around to in in the next couple days or this weekend at the latest.

dangerousdane wrote: What's the difference between ADS and DBI? Also my crimestopper alarm has 2 data modes, OFA and SL. I think SL didn't work and OFA was sorta half-assed.

ADS and DBI are communication protocols for the D2D. ADS is idatalink's own and DBI is what Directed uses. As for OFA and SL, same deal only OFA is idatalink and SL is fortin.

ADS and DBI are communication protocols for the D2D. ADS is idatalink's own and DBI is what Directed uses. As for OFA and SL, same deal only OFA is idatalink and SL is fortin.[/QUOTE] I feel stupid having asked, when I re-installed the alarm yesterday I read it in the install manual and remembered reading it the first time I installed it a few weeks ago. I won't forget it now. Everything appears to be working after hardwiring the data module except I still have the clicking noises which was expected since they didn't go away when I took the alarm out. I need to check all the fuses but that's about as much as I've come up with for now. Thanks again everyone.

On diesel's with DEF, when the truck is shut off the truck will make noises as the DEF is pumped back into the tank and the line is purged. This is normal behavior.

Hey Everyone, it's been a while. I just dropped the truck off at the dealer to get some some unrelated communication error codes fixed and 4 recalls taken care of, and I mentioned the clicking and stuff to them. I'll let you guys know what they say about it when I get it back and it's fixed. Here is a shot of the truck: And here is my latest project for this beauty, a custom 2 micron triple-filtered fuel filtration system with air bubble return and bleeder valve return to tank. Most of the flow of fuel in this system goes back into the tank thru the factory draw straw, and the little bit left over goes up the original fuel line to the CP3. There's an Airdog (Raptor) lift pump in there too. I finally got all the leaks hammered out but one little leak. It's been a pain in the ass, I spent 4 weekends working on it. But I feel great about having 1 micron fuel going to my precious injection pump and injectors. Total cost was ≈$750

The dealer said it was normal! I'm 100% sure my truck didn't do it until I installed this alarm and had the idatalink putting data on the CAN. My brother has the same truck and he's in the exact same situation after he installed the same alarm. I'll get back to you guys in a few months when I get it figured out. Sorry I thought for sure they'd have been able to tell what was wrong. I have to take the alarm out if I want to bring it back for this issue, I may just do it because they have my identical truck on their lot still and I can show them a brand new truck doesn't make the noises.