2013 toyota tacoma remote start

My gut instinct would be to review anything done after it worked last.  In this case securing / neatening-up and putting everything back together would be at the top of my check list.  This doesn't happen often if you position / cut to length / solder and insulate each connection. 

There would be a few areas of higher probability. 

First would be the transponder bypass ( PKALL ).  You can see if this is your problem by unplugging the power to the bypass module and holding a key at the ignition switch.  If the truck starts, check the bypass module and all its' connections.

Second would be a blown fuse going to the R/S unit.  I have seen where the slightly exposed metal tips at the fuse body can be inadvertently  be bumped against vehicle metal frame, blowing the fuse.  I always wrap the exposed fuse with a layer or two of Scotch Super 33+ to prevent this.  If all the fuses test good, then verify good +12V power at the R/S itself at all the +12V inputs, in case of a wiring connection problem or vehicle blown fuse.

Third is a problem with the Tach wire or connection.  Some R/S units that are programmed for Tach Mode and then loose the signal give similar symptoms.

Lastly would be an ignition wire connection problem.  As mentioned, this should not happen to a soldered-in R/S installation, but...

Be cautious with what you disconnect.  Remember that if you cut the Tacoma's Starter1 wire to make the 5303 H/1 Purple and H/2 Green connections, it will prevent a regular key start if the thick wire H connector is unplugged from the 5303.  Similar situation with the PKALL and its' Connector 3.  There you opened the vehicles IMI wire.  The relay that supplies the N.C. connection ( and allows a regular key start ) is inside the module(s).