2 or 4 Ohm amp/8 Ohm Sub

  by underpowering the sub with the bridged config. how can i control overworking/cliping  the amp? just reduce the gain at the amp, or just watch the sub volume from my head unit? I got this amp because I thought it was properly matched to feed this sub, but it looks like I may have screwed the pooch on that. "In this bright future you cant forget your past"

You wont be underpowering the sub too bad (somewhere between 100 and 200 watts), I've seen people do worse (like using a 200 watt amp to run a 1000RMS sub!). Adjust your gains as normal (gains all the way down, 3/4 volume on the headunit, then turn the gains up until you hear distortion, then turn them down a fraction of a turn), and you should be fine. Don't feel bad. You matched the RMS pretty good, but you would have been better off getting a mono class D amp that was stable at 2ohms. Is it possible for you to return/exchange the amp?Squirrel

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  It may be possible for me to swap out amps, I would have to see. So if that was an option, I would need an amp that was 600 X 1 @ 2 Ohms Rms, right?"In this bright future you cant forget your past"

That's correct. Since you have a 4ohm DVC, you could wire it in parallel (like the pic I posted at the start of the thread) for a 2ohm total load on a 600 x 1 @ 2ohms amp. The JBL BP600.1 is an excellent amp from what I've read, and would do you quite nicely. Not sure of the $'s though. Make sure when you choose an amp to look at the 12volt power (RMS) rating. Most companies are using 14.4volts to rate their amps now, and you have to do a little digging to find what you would actually get at 12volts. Based on the specs I've seen lately, a quick quess estimate is to subtract apx 50 to 100 watts from the 14.4volt rating to get the apx 12volt specs.Squirrel

"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"

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Nestamarley, check this tutorial from JL about DVC wiring.... thex explain in detail why it should not be done... hope it's useful man: http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/dvc/diffsignals.htmld148l0

If you have a DMM, test the RCA outputs. It's very unlikely that they are exactly the same, but you never know. Even if the headunit is producing 2 exact signals, you still have the amp to worry about. Each channel has it's own gain controls, filters, etc. which is why it's not recommended for a 2+ channel amp. What's the make/model of the headunit? Assuming the signal is the same from both channels of the headunit (and truely mono not stereo), and the amp is set up exactly the same for both channels, the specs I found on that amp vary. One site referenced 200 x 2 @ 4ohms, and another referenced 370 x 2 @ 4ohms. Power Acoustik doesn't even list that amp anymore, and most places I've found have it listed as discontinued. If it would be possible to get another 4ohm DVC sub to match your current one, then you would be better off (you could wire in series/parallel for a bridged 4ohm load and get apx 960 x 1 @ 4ohms mono) You still another option though. I've found some sites that list that amp as being 2ohm mono stable. It highly unlikely, but possible. Turn the gains down and hook the sub up like this... I said turn the gains down because you would get apx. 960 watts to the sub (which has an RMS of 600 watts). Adjust the gains like you normally would at that point. If the amp goes into protect mode or starts shutting off, then you know it isn't 2ohm mono stable and you're back to square one.Squirrel

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I wouldn't trust it too much, but here's the link. It shouldn't hurt the amp or sub to at least try a 2ohm bridge. Just keep the gains turned down while you try it. I normally don't recommend trying an uncertain 2ohm bridge unless, like in your case, you already have the equipment on hand and aren't still waiting to buy something.Squirrel

"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"

If its too loud, then you're too old

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