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2006 dodge dakota won’t stay running


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shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: November 16, 2014 at 1:34 PM / IP Logged  
Doing an install on a 2006 Dodge Dakota V6. Everything is installed and seems to work, but I can't get the truck to stay running for more than a few seconds. These are the specs on my install.
CM7200 Controller
ADS-ALCA
The wiring guide I'm following.
I don't have the (-) key sense hooked up because some wiring diagrams show that it's needed, some don't. I did try putting it to ground before initiating the RS sequence(holding it there the whole time), but it didn't make a difference. The vehicle still shut down after running for a few seconds.
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: November 16, 2014 at 3:11 PM / IP Logged  
I think I found my problem. It's called the idiot who made the wiring connections. ME! 2006 dodge dakota won’t stay running -- posted image. Looks like I accidentally wired my (-) parking light trigger to the (-) accessory trigger and vice-versa. My clue was that when I locked the truck the headlights, parking lights, and heater came on. Simple enough fix and no damage done. 2006 dodge dakota won’t stay running -- posted image.
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: November 16, 2014 at 4:06 PM / IP Logged  
Well, forget that idea. I corrected my wiring error and still the same results; runs for a few seconds and shuts down.
For whatever reason, the parking brake and ABS light do not go out after the vehicle starts. Which is weird, because the parking brake isn't applied.
chev104275 
Gold - Posts: 1,424
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 26, 2007
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: November 16, 2014 at 4:30 PM / IP Logged  
Are you powering up all 5 acc and ing wires ? Also the one negative acc wire ?   Sounds like something isn't getting powered up or not powered up correctly (ing as acc or vise versa)
If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: November 16, 2014 at 5:27 PM / IP Logged  
My accessory connections are as follows:
Pink / YELLOW: Connected to (+)White accessory output wire on the CN3 connector.
Second Pink / YELLOW: Powered off relay triggered by POC#8 - (-)250mA Black in CN5 connector.
Pink/White: Powered off relay triggered by POC#7 - (-)250mA Violet/White in CN5 connector.
(-)Violet: Grounded via relay triggered by (-)250mA WHITE/ Black 2nd Accessory in CN5 connector.
I programmed the POCs via compustar.idatalink.com, however, I'm concerned they didn't take effect. When I tested for power output from the two relays powering the Pink / YELLOW and Pink/White wires, one didn't appear to be powering up and the other powered up during ignition and start, but then dropped out after starting. I'm concerned that the POC changes I made via Weblink didn't take.
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: November 16, 2014 at 5:36 PM / IP Logged  
Oh. As for the ignition wires.
CN1 Ingtion 1 Green - vehicle pink/lt. green
CN1 Ingition 2 Blue - vehicle pink
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: November 16, 2014 at 5:38 PM / IP Logged  
shafferny wrote:
My accessory connections are as follows:
Pink / YELLOW: Connected to (+)White accessory output wire on the CN3 connector.
Second Pink / YELLOW: Powered off relay triggered by POC#8 - (-)250mA Black in CN5 connector.
Pink/White: Powered off relay triggered by POC#7 - (-)250mA Violet/White in CN5 connector.
(-)Violet: Grounded via relay triggered by (-)250mA WHITE/ Black 2nd Accessory in CN5 connector.
I programmed the POCs via compustar.idatalink.com, however, I'm concerned they didn't take effect. When I tested for power output from the two relays powering the Pink / YELLOW and Pink/White wires, one didn't appear to be powering up and the other powered up during ignition and start, but then dropped out after starting. I'm concerned that the POC changes I made via Weblink didn't take.
Just realized I made a typo.
Pink / YELLOW: Connected to (+)White accessory output wire on the CN1 connector.
davep. 
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Joined: May 27, 2011
Location: California, United States
Posted: November 16, 2014 at 9:48 PM / IP Logged  
Seems like a tach-learn problem, or engine detect mode programming error. Did you perform the tach-learn procedure during the install?
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: November 18, 2014 at 1:27 PM / IP Logged  
davep. wrote:
Seems like a tach-learn problem, or engine detect mode programming error. Did you perform the tach-learn procedure during the install?
I did a tach relearn and that seemed to do the trick. Everything seems to be work now, but I just have one more issue to deal with. After remote started the doors automatically lock and the alarm goes off. I've been told by iDatalink tech support to power up the (-) key sense wire. Would it be safe to connect the (-) key sense wire to a (-)250mA Status output on the CM7200. FWIW, the factory key sense wire is 20ga.
I'm not going to lie. The weather and this install have kicked my butt!
Thanks for the help guys.
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: November 18, 2014 at 3:53 PM / IP Logged  
Finally got everything squared away on the truck.2006 dodge dakota won’t stay running -- posted image.

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