Pit Stop Mode with a 551t?

I can't think of an easy way to bench test a 551T without hooking it to an actual engine to get a tach signal. So can any of you remember this about a 551T? I'll probably test anyway, but am what-if-ing. If you trigger the 551T on the wht/blu activate wire on an already-running engine: A: Will it activate, or does it fail because tach signal is present?. B: If it does activate, does it run the starter on an already running engine? I like pit-stop mode, and use it frequently on my other vehicles that have more sophisticated systems. I'm curious if the 551T can be made to pit-stop too. I have a work-around for "B" in the above. For "A", I guess get a newer unit. :grin:. Thanks as always.

all DEI products can be programmed for "assume running" - this is good on the one touch start vehicles. Look in programming and find engine checking off. that way it will start on a bench and wont shutoff. If i recall correctly, pit-stop works fine, but of course you can go over this on a benchTed

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Thanks Ted. The 551T isn't very sophisticated. I put it in "Voltage Check". It would stay on. I simulated a "pit stop": R/S activate > key on > brake input defeat > activate > key off (unit remained activated until time-out). With the simulated engine running (B+ present on yellow wire at relay satellite), it activated, but did NOT activate the starter output. Which is what one expects for "pit stop". The only thing I don't like is that the minimum time-out period is 12 minutes. Later DEI's, the pit-stop run-time can be programmed for less than the R/S run-time. Now I know what to expect after it is installed. There's no substitute for testing. Thanks again.

I'm pretty sure it'll work fine for pit-stop mode. What are you using to activate the 551T? A doorlock motor wire in the car? An existing aftermarket alarm? A few issues I could see are: ---Whatever you're going to use to activate the 551T, does it still function when your car engine is running? ---Whatever method you currently use to lock the doors in your car, does that work with the engine running? If not, keep in mind that if you make a pit stop, and desire to lock the car, you'd have to lock the doors manually. A few years back, I had a 1994 Caprice wagon. There was a "trip reset" button on the dash, which made a negative output. If you held the button in for a few seconds, it would reset the trip odometer. Anyway, I tied my remote starter's activation input to the wire coming from the switch. When I parked, I could hit the button very quickly, and the remote starter would enter pit-stop mode, but the trip meter would not reset, since I didn't hold the button in too long. Depending on what car you have, you might be able to do the same. If your power mirror switch has a center detent that makes the buttons not move either of the mirrors, you could tap into one of the mirror button wires for this.

QUOTE=Chris Luongo: I'm pretty sure it'll work fine for pit-stop mode. >>> It does. The owner's guide doesn't mention pit-stop, but it does it using the wht/blu activate wire. What are you using to activate the 551T? A door lock motor wire in the car? An existing aftermarket alarm? >>> Aftermarket alarm. An old DEI 350, I'll use the RED / wht Aux 2. This is a pick-up. I don't need hatch-pop. Plus Aux 2 requires a 3-second hold the button down. Perfect for R/S activation. A few issues I could see are: ---Whatever you're going to use to activate the 551T, does it still function when your car engine is running? >>>This is what has prompted me to use the old 350. I've had this 1991 S-series truck for 18 years. I installed a factory RKE from a 93 S-Blazer when I first got it. I was going to use the hatch-pop I've never needed to activate the 551. But the factory RKE does not activate the hatch with the ignition on. And I want pit-stop. Yes, I could hide a button for the wht/blu wire, and rely on the brake-defeat if a joyrider found it, but I don't think I want to do that. ---Whatever method you currently use to lock the doors in your car, does that work with the engine running? If not, keep in mind that if you make a pit stop, and desire to lock the car, you'd have to lock the doors manually. >>> I'll test the 350 for this. I've had this all set up on the bench, but I don't remember if the 350 cares if the IGN is on or not for the locks, if it isn't programmed for IGN-contrrolled lock or unlock. I don't think it does. ---A few years back, I had a 1994 Caprice wagon. There was a "trip reset" button on the dash, which made a negative output. If you held the button in for a few seconds, it would reset the trip odometer. ---Anyway, I tied my remote starter's activation input to the wire coming from the switch. When I parked, I could hit the button very quickly, and the remote starter would enter pit-stop mode, but the trip meter would not reset, since I didn't hold the button in too long. >>> This is neat thinking. I like it a lot. I do a lot of passive-arm ghost switches. I've never thought of using the trip computer buttons. Thanks for the tip. Depending on what car you have, you might be able to do the same. If your power mirror switch has a center detent that makes the buttons not move either of the mirrors, you could tap into one of the mirror button wires for this. >>> I'm an old-school guy, the truck is old, the equipment is old, it's all a perfect fit. I will test the 350's lock outputs with the IGN on, but I think that too will be fine. Or I'll lock it manually, which I do now anyway. I appreciate the comments and input. I learned some stuff. Thanks.