1996 Miata Excalibur Fuse Blowing

No it's probably fixed time at 0.8 seconds. If you can set it to 3.5 seconds you're in with a chance, if so give me the wire colours and functions. Although with 4 pins I very much doubt it, you'd need 6 wires to have internal relays and do this function.

Isn't there a separate headlight switch on that model, bet it's a momentary NEG at the switch to control it, TEST.

I just looked at the install manual, lock outputs are low current NEG. Check the headlight lift switch if you have one, above the radio slot (years since I've done a Mk. l) Test if it's a POS or NEG output from the switch when you press it.

it wouldn't be wise to pull power from the 4pin lock plug, to power your headlight relay. Use a 12v source that's of capable current load.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

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I think the switch is low current but our OP must test, I also THINK it's momentary and logically it would be NEG but again, it's 11:30pm where I am and at leas 3000 miles away so our OP has to again, TEST.

Headlights should be on their own circuit (for obvious safety reasons). And at least their power fuse should be self-resetting circuit breakers (ditto) except if individually or separately fused. Note that I'm speaking generally for headlight circuit fusing - not separate or additional headlight controls.

We're talking about the motors that raise the headlights Peter.

Cool. I just dropped in and just saw something about tapping "headlights" to door lock or something. Of course if raisers require +12V to stay up, my reply is still valid.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I took a little break for the weekend but I'm back at it... I hope I answer correctly: There are effectively 3 headlight switches in the '94-'97 Miata/Eunos. 1. The rotary switch in the end of the turn signal stalk that pops the headlights and illuminates them. 2. A momentary switch of some sort is also inside of the turn signal stalk for when you pull it towards you to trigger "flash to pass". This raises the headlight and flashes the lights. The headlights stay raised for as long as you hold back the stalk, then they retract about a second after you let go. This is the line I am tapped into for my alarm. This is where the factory alarm was tapped into for this feature as well. 3. There is a button on the center of the dash that raises the headlights and keeps them up(but not illuminated). This is mainly used to wash the headlights without having the lights on. This is a NEG switch. Question: How does tapping into the constant 12v at the ignition harness sound? It's certainly capable of the handling the current and it's wonderfully close to where I want to mount my relays. It's quite tight under the dash. Thanks again!

I'll also add that I am only interested in popping them for that short period of time that the "flash to pass" offers so the shorter the trigger time, the better. The .08 is perfect. It works fine as I tested it(except for the blowing of the fuse), I wired up the 5-pin relay like Howie said to prevent that. Now it's just a matter of finding a solid and easily tappable constant 12v source for that relay. Think I'm tapping into the ignition constant 12v as I said. It' around 14ga wire so current-wise it should be solid, right? Thanks!