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Viper 5706V in 2012 Toyota Tundra


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george28 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: May 19, 2015
Posted: June 05, 2015 at 11:53 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote george28
Hey all,
This is my first attempt at installing an alarm/remote start. I am trying to install a Viper 5706V with DBALL2 bypass inside my 2012 Toyota Tundra double cab with G key. I used an install guide from toyotatundraforum (thanks wleeb) to work off of however he installed with a Viper 5701 and XK05 inside a 2010 Tundra, so slightly different configuration. I'm embarrassed to say how long I've spent working on this project so far counting all of the research and reading on 12volt.com and other sites. Up to this point I have all of the wires connected that I believe are necessary for the Viper unit and have nothing connected on DBALL2 bypass combo. For the most part everything seems to be working as expected with unit. I have a shock sensor, tilt sensor, and backup battery installed in it as well. Some things I have questions on regarding this alarm/remote start install are:
1) if I have one of the doors open and then arm the system the doors lock. I then shut the door and alarm is active. However, if I hit the unlock button on key fob following this sequence the doors do not unlock and I have to use key to get inside setting off the alarm. is this a problem with my wiring?
2) Are the 2 relays that I installed necessary as well as diode isolating the 4 door trigger inputs? It seems that I read some suggestions of wiring the door trigger input to dome supervision wire or something? Everything does seem to work for most part with doors locking/unlocking but have noticed that with my OEM keyfob one click unlocked only drivers door and x2 clicks unlocked all 4 doors and now with viper fob one click unlocks all 4 doors. I would prefer to have it set up how the OEM fob works where one click only unlocks drivers side door.
3) if I put key into ignition and remote start the sequence seems appropriate right up to the point where the starter turns over. it sounds like it turns over and then the car shuts off every time.
This is where the bypass comes into play. I am very confused on how to install the dball2 in conjunction with the 5706v. I've read a lot about D2D and W2W but still just can't seem to differentiate the two and tie this together with the alarm/remote start. After purchasing the DBALL2 I realized it was a combo unit and not a stand alone bypass such as the PKALL (which maybe I should have purchased instead?). I have identified 8 wires that come from the DBALL2 that the diagram that it came with says to hook up if its installed with D2D mode. It seems like this is the cleanest approach. Does this mean that I hook up the 8 wires as specified in my excel spreadsheet as well as the D2D cable from the bypass to the viper and be good to go? The diagram says to hook up the keysense input (WHITE/ black -) as well as keysense output (GREEN/ black -) to key sense connector 1. I have a keysense wire hooked up from the viper's 24 pin connector (remote start status output, dark blue - row 34 in attached spreadsheet) t-spliced into key sense wire that I believe is the same wire the manual is saying to connect the keysense input and output wire up to. if so, should those be connected in parallel or series?
I purchased the Xkloader2 and a dball2 unit that was not programmed and then programmed the dball2 from their website. After I hook up those 8 wires plus D2D cable is next step to learn the key per their instructions? I really appreciate any help as I just got really lossed in trying to tie together the viper unit and dball2.
I have attached an excel spreadsheet listed below:
My install diagram
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 06, 2015 at 4:14 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
You need to wire key sense ref unlocking.
Go to the switched ground feed for all the interior lights at the fuse box, marked dome supervision for your door triggers, hence no relays or diodes required.
Unless the DB-ALL 2 handles this.
george28 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: May 19, 2015
Posted: June 06, 2015 at 3:09 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote george28
Thanks for the input Howie. I had to go back to the drawing board and reevaluate my wiring. I am wanting to wire in D2D mode so I eliminated a lot of the connections I had. In regards to the key sense ref unlocking, per the dball2 diagram it states to wire the keysense input (WHITE/ black) and keysense output (GREEN/ black) in parallel to keysense wire which I've confirmed with multimeter. Below is what I've ended up with in connections. Note I removed the 2 relays as those wire leads from alarm are no longer used with d2d. I used a bitwriter to set transmission mode to automatic and programmed the DBALL2 to my 12 Tundra with XKLoader2. I went through programming key process described in DBALL2 manual and it made appropriate led flashed indicating it was programmed successfully. Doors lock and unlock as expected. I have used all the default bitwriter values with the exception of system arming mode set to auto rearm w/lock, panic mode set to ign off only, door lock output duration set to .4sec, OEAM alarm disarm output set to remote start only, transmission mode set to automatic, and engine checking mode set to virtual tach. when I attempt to remote start my truck it goes through process of trying to start but does not try to turn over. all the connections are t-spliced into oem wires (parallel connection) except the starter input/output wires from viper rs and the autoheadlamp shutoff wires from dball2. any help or troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated as I feel like I'm very close and would love to get the project wrapped up. Sorry for the long winded reponse but did want to give all info possible. The main issue I'm seeking help with is trying to figure out why the remote start wont allow starter to turn over and start my truck. Thanks again! Here's a link to the dball2 diagram I'm using. I'm using type 2 on page 6.
DBALL2 diagram
H1/1      Red     (+)     Constant 12V (+) Source     Gray (520T)     Gray     (+)     Battery Backup Module (520T)     
H1/2     Black     (-)     Chassis Ground     Chassis Ground (-)        
H1/3     Brown     (+)     Siren Output     Siren     Red     (+)     Siren     
H1/4     WHITE/ Brown     Not Used        
H1/5     White     (-)     Parking Lights Output     Parking Lights     Tan     (-)     Pin 18 of Headlight switch     "Set the light flash polarity fuse to (-)
H1/6     Orange     (-) 500mA     Ground When Armed Output     Orange (507M)     Orange     (-)     Tilt Sensor (507M)     
 
Door Lock, 3-pin connector  
DL3/1      Blue      (+)/(-)     (-) Unlock Output     Power Unlock     Red     (-)     NJ2 Pin 6      
DL3/2      Empty Not Used          
DL3/3      Green      (+)/(-)     (-) Lock Output     Power Lock     White     (-)     NJ2 Pin 7     
 
Remote Start, 10-pin heavy gauge connector  
H3/1     N/C     N/C Not Used        
H3/2     RED / Black     (+) 30A FUSED     Accessory/Starter Power Input     Constant 12V (+) Source        
H3/3     Pink/Black Flex Relay Input 87A Key Side (If Required) Of Flex Relay     Not Used        
H3/4     Pink/White     (+)     Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Output     Ignition 2     Light Green     (+)     J9 Pin 1     
H3/5     Red     (+) 30A FUSED     Ignition 1 Power Input     Constant 12V (+) Source        
H3/6     Green     (+)     Starter Input (Key Side Of The Starter Kill Wire)     Starter Input (Key Side Of The Starter Kill Wire)     Dark Green     (+)     J9 Pin 7     
H3/7     Violet     (+)     Starter Output (Starter Side Of The Starter Kill Wire)     Starter Output (Starter Side Of The Starter Kill Wire)     Dark Green     (+)     J9 Pin 7     
H3/8     Orange     (+)     Accessory Output     Accessory 1     Gray     (+)     J9 Pin 2     
H3/9     RED / White     (+) 30A FUSED     Fused Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Input 87     Constant 12V (+) Source        
H3/10     Pink     (+)     Ignition 1 Input/Output     Ignition 1     Black     (+)     J9 Pin 6     
 
Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector  
H2/1     Pink/White     (-) 200mA     Flex Relay Control Output     Not Used        
H2/2     Blue/White     (-) 200 mA     2Nd Status/Rear Defogger     Not Used        
H2/3      RED / White     (-) 200mA     Trunk Release Output     Not Used        
H2/4     BLACK / YELLOW     (-) 200mA     Dome Light Output     Not Used        
H2/5     Dark Blue     (-) 200mA     Remote Start Status Output     Not Used        
H2/6     WHITE/ Black     (-) 200mA     Aux 3 Output     Not Used        
H2/7     WHITE/ Violet     (-) 200mA     Aux 1 Output     Not Used        
H2/8     ORANGE / Black     (-) 200mA     Aux 4 Output     Not Used        
H2/9     Gray     (-)     Hood Pin Switch Input, Zone 6     Not Used        
H2/10     Blue     (-)     Instant Trigger Input / Trunk Pin, Zone 1     Blue (507M)     Blue     (-)     Tilt Sensor (507M)     
H2/10     Blue     (-)     Instant Trigger Input / Trunk Pin, Zone 1     Blue (520T)     Blue     (-)     Battery Backup Module (520T)     
H2/11     WHITE/ Blue     (-)     Remote Input Start/ Turbo Timer Activation     Not Used        
H2/12     Violet/White     (AC)     Tachometer Input Wire     Not Used        
H2/13     BLACK/ White     (-)     Neutral Safety Switch Input     Chassis Ground (-)        
H2/14     Light GREEN/ Black     (-) 200mA     Factory Alarm Disarm Output     Not Used        
H2/15     Green     (-)     Door Trigger Input     Not Used  
H2/16     BROWN / Black     (-) 200mA     Horn Honk Output     Not Used        
H2/17     Pink     (-) 200mA     Ignition 1 Output     Not Used        
H2/18     Violet     (+)     Door Trigger Input, Zone 3     Not Used        
H2/19     Violet/Black     (-) 200mA     Aux 2 Output     Not Used        
H2/20     Brown     (+)     Brake Shutdown Wire     Not Used        
H2/21     Violet     (-) 200mA     Starter Output     Not Used        
H2/22     Gray/Black     (-)     Diesel Wait To Start Input     Not Used        
H2/23     Orange     (-) 200mA     Accessory Output     Not Used        
H2/24     GREEN / WHITE     (-) 200mA     Factory Alarm Arm Output     Not Used        
 
507M Tilt Sensor  
507M/Red     Red     (+)     Constant 12V (+) Source     Constant 12V (+) Source        
507M/Orange     Orange     (-)     Ground When Armed Output of Secruity System     H1/6     Orange     (-) 500mA     Ground When Armed Output     
507M/Blue     Blue     (-)     Instant Trigger Input of Secruity System     H2/10     Blue     (-)     Instant Trigger Input / Trunk Pin, Zone 1     
 
520T Backup Battery System  
520T/Red     Red     (+)     Constant 12V (+) Source     Constant 12V (+) Source        
520T/Black     Black     (-)     Chassis Ground     Chassis Ground (-)        
520T/Gray     Gray     (+)     Constant 12V Source of Secruity System     H1/1     Red     (+)     Constant 12V (+) Source     
520T/Blue     Blue     (-)     Instant Trigger Input of Secruity System     H2/10     Blue     (-)     Instant Trigger Input / Trunk Pin, Zone 1     
 
DBALL 2 Bypass  
 
14 Pin Connector  
TXCT - Pin 2     Violet / YELLOW   Transponder Connector TXCT: Pin 5        
HS CAN High - Pin 3     Tan/Black   ODBII pin 6     Violet   
HS CAN Low - Pin 4     Tan   ODBII pin 14     White   
Auto Headlamp Shutoff N/C - Pin 10     ORANGE / Red   Headlight switch pin 19, switch side     Green Guide says to connect this if equipped with automatic headlamps which I have     
Auto Headlamp Shutoff Common - Pin 11     Yellow/Red   Headlight switch pin 19, non-switch side     Green   
 
12 Pin Connector  
Keysense Output     GREEN/ Black     (-) Key Warning Switch, pin 1      Grey     (-)     2 Pin Connector located at left side of ignition (grey and white with black stripe wires), grey wire is the key sense.     
SIL - Pin 10     Yellow/Black   ODBII pin 7     Tan   
CODE - Pin 11     ORANGE / Black   Transponder Connector CODE: Pin 4        
 
10 Pin Connector  
Keysense Input     WHITE/ Black     (-) Key Warning Switch, pin 1      Grey     (-)     2 Pin Connector located at left side of ignition (grey and white with black stripe wires), grey wire is the key sense.     
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 06, 2015 at 3:30 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Look to the referral sheet that comes with unit, Menu 3' feature 1, change to "AUTO"; feature 2, change to tach.
Violet/white H2/12 to pin 9 I OBD socket.
Blue H2/10, diode separate,1N4004, bands away from Viper.
george28 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: May 19, 2015
Posted: June 06, 2015 at 4:30 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote george28
Thanks again Howie. I already had Menu 3, feature 1 set to AUTO but double checked to ensure it was and also changed menu 3 to feature 2 per your instruction. I connected the violet/white tach wire up to OBD pin 9 and diode isolated the backup battery module and and tilt sensor with white strip away from viper unit (I used 1N4001 diodes, I hope these are ok?). The remote start will still not function appropriately, it turns the truck on and starts trying to crank but then goes out and nothing. Any other suggestions? I don't seem to have the truck flashing any type of diagnostic flashes after failed remote start attempt either.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 06, 2015 at 5:33 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
That was my next question about the diagnostic flashes.
If you see no flashes, listen for clicks from the 5706 after R/S shuts down.
If that doesn't work look at your referral sheet page 1 top right.
Did you learn tach when you rewired it?
If none of the above works two more:-
Throw away all T-Connectors and solder. They're a real no-no.
I assume you're using diagram 2, if so recheck:-
TXCT Transponder Key Amplifier 5
CODE Transponder Key Amplifier 4
CAN HS H OBDII Connector 6 Black
CAN HS L OBDII Connector 14 White
SIL OBDII Connector 7 Gray
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 06, 2015 at 5:40 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Those last lot are very thin, T-connectors just won't work, also I assume you're using diagram 2.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: June 06, 2015 at 5:47 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Got it!
H2/21     Violet     (-) 200mA     Starter Output     Not Used
Oops above to relay 85
Pink to relay 86
red via 20amp fuse 12V+ constant to 87
From relay 30 to ignition switch Pin 3, grey.
Diode across relay, 1N4004, band to 86.
I think that last is the answer.
Your fuel primer isn't being energised.
george28 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: May 19, 2015
Posted: June 06, 2015 at 7:19 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote george28
Thanks so much again for the input Howie. I did not learn the tach. So I went back out to my truck and followed process of starting up truck and then within 5 seconds holding down valet button until status LED on control center was learned which never happened. I'm in the process of soldering the rest of my "temporary connections" right now. I should also note that after I hooked up the tach wire as you suggested previously the truck will remote start with key fob if key is in ignition but will not without key in ignition. One remote started the started seems to try to engage periodically which may be fixed by soldering my connections? in response to your last post I should set up a spdt relay as follows:
85 to H2/21 (violet / YELLOW)
86 to H2/17 ignition 1 output with 1n4001 diode connected with white strip towards relay 86
87 to 12v+ constant with inline 20amp fuse
30 to ignition switch, pin 3 grey
Is this still what you would recommend based on me telling you the car would remote start with the key in the ignition? Thank you for all of your help with this!
george28 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: May 19, 2015
Posted: June 06, 2015 at 10:53 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote george28
You are the man Howie! Thanks so much. I soldered all of the connections and now the remote start works without key in ignition. I can't thank you enough. The last thing I have left for the install is I have a tonneau cover for the back bed. I purchased another negative trigger pin switch and installed it back there. I would like to add this trigger to the alarm system. Would I just add it to the H2/10 wire that has the battery backup and tilt sensor connected and diode isolate this wire as well? Again thanks for all of your help. This was a huge project for a beginner like me but I feel more confident now going into my next install.
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