1994 Silverado Avital 4103L Installation

I installed an Avital 4103L into my 1994 Chevy Silverado...got it all wired up per the instructions (and reading forum posts)....and nothing happens :( Actually the only thing that works is the parking light flash and the horn flash. Beyond that nada....no remote start, no door lock/unlock. Not sure where to even begin trying to resolve this issue. Hoping someone on this forum has worked on a 1994 Silverado and can give me some pointers. Here is the installation I used: Heavy Gauge Relay, 6-pin connector - Pink Output to Primary Ignition Circuit - Pink @ Ignition Switch - Purple Output to Starter Circuit - Purple @ Ignition Switch - Orange Output to Accessory Circuit - Orange @ Ignition Switch - Red (+30A) High Current 12V Input - Red @ Ignition Switch - Pink/White Output to 2nd Ignition/Accesory - NOT USED - Red (+30A) High Current 12V Input - Red @ Ignition Switch (2nd red) Satelite Harness, 4-pin connector - NOT USED Door Lock, 3-pin connector - Light Blue (-) Unlock Output - BLACK/ Red in door jamb - Green (-) Lock Output - Lt. Blue in door jamb Main Wiring Harness (H1), 9-pin connector - H1/1 - Not Used - H1/2 - Not Used - H1/3 - Not Used - H1/4 - Not Used - H1/5 - Not Used - H1/6 - Brown to Black (-) on steering column (horn) - H1/7 - Not Used - H1/8 - Black to body ground - H1/9 - White to Brown (+) on steering column (light) Remote Start Harness (H3), 5-pin connector - H3/1 - BLACK/ White to (-) Neutral Safety Toggle Switch - H3/2 - Violet/White to White on ignition coil under hood - H3/3 - Brown to (+) White on steering column (Brake Shutdown Input) - H3/4 - Gray to (-) Hood Pin Switch Shutdown Input - H3/5 - Blue/White Defogger - NOT USED Aside from the remote start issue - which by the way doesn't engage the starter or even flash the lights....are the door locks on the Silverado (-) or (+) as that might be the issue I'm having. Any advice would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.

Two door or four door?  Factory keyless entry?  Going to need a Directed 451M door lock module either way, unless you have a couple of 30/40 Amp SPDT relays handy.

H2/1  BLACK/ WHITE  (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT  Should go to Chassis Ground.  ( assuming auto trans )

Did you program for Engine Checking = Tach and do a Tach Learn?

Soldering is fun!

Programmed for auto if it is an auto look for diagnostic flashes or listen for clicks from the brain after a failed RS will give you clues. Ditto tach learn.

A couple things come to mind in regarding a No r/s condition with these units. Double check antenna is plugged in and look closely at the the wires in the plug, making sure none of the pins got ripped out/broken wire. When these units do not repond to a r/s command you need to verify that the neutral safety is seeing ground, the brown brake wire is not seeing + voltage, and the hoodpin is not seeing ground. Usually it's one of these three inputs that keeps these units from reacting to the press of the r/s. Once that is corrected it should atleast attempt a start. If you are having trouble keeping it running, or doesn't crank long enough then it's more than likely a tach issue. Did you set the polarity jumper for the parking lights on the side of the brain box? sometimes they come taped on the top of the brain with a little piece of red tape. Whenever you press lock command on the avital remote, the led on the side of the brain box should be blinking. If it's not, then you either have a communication issue or power/ground issue. If you've verified power and ground at the brain box, then I would try to reprogram the remotes if you're still getting no reaction from avital unit.Advanced

Thank you for the quick replies....here is some additional information based on your responses: Two-door Extended Cab No Factory Keyless Have not programmed for Engine Checking/Tach Learn since I can't get it to even engage the starter (I assumed this step would be needed after it first started?) H2/1 BLACK/ White I assume was meant to be H3/1 (Neutral Safety Switch input)? If so, this should connect to the toggle switch and then the other wire from the toggle switch should ground? The instructions stated to connect to either Park/Neutral switch or ground. On the Silverado, there is the park/neutral switch on the base of the steering column and that is what I used. Will ground to see if that helps. Polarity jumper was set to (+) on the brain box. Lock/Unlock command flashes both the parking lights as well as flash the led on the brain box. In regards to the D-451M unit, I assume that is required because the factory door locks are the opposite of the Avital requires...hence the need for the relays that the 451M provides? I'll research more on the D-451M unit but any additional information regarding its use on a 94 Silverado would be helpful.

Park neutral switch is fine off the vehicle is a manual and a wire on that switch only goes to ground when the vehicle is in neutral.

Rewired it away from the park/neutral switch into a hard body ground....and also double-checked the hood switch (I don't think it was dis-engaging)....it worked!!! Now I'll make sure to get the tach learn portion completed. The only thing remaining will be the lock/unlock which it appears I need the D-451M unit....any further advice on that? Thanks everyone!

The 451M module should be available from many online vendors for under $9 delivered.

Here is a link to the DEI 451M install guide :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726On a 2 door truck without factory remote keyless entry, it should be Type C door locks.  Check for a +12V pulse on these wires :Power Lock lt. blue        @  either door boot   Power Unlock          BLACK/ red     @  either door boot Follow the Type C wiring diagram in the 451M install guide.

If you see a (-) pulse on these wires, then it's Type A.

Soldering is fun!

Success! Everything seems to be working (Remote Start + Door Lock/Unlock). I installed the DEI 451M and that did the trick for the doors. Did end up blowing the fuse because I wired the motor/switch sides backwards. I disconnected the harness for the switch and pulled the wire through the door jamb so I could have more room to work. Assumed the wire(s) closest to the switch was the "switch" side....turns out it was the other way around. Again thanks for everyone's help!