2007 Ford fusion Advice

2007 Ford Fusion 6 cyl Hello. I'm looking for some advice that hopefully you all can help me with. Due to the cold weather, I've been bitten by the remote starter bug. I've installed a handful of stereos and alarms in various cars before, but none newer than 1990. I plan to go the ebay route with buying the starter and bypass. It will most likely be a viper 4706 or 4806. I haven't decided about LCD or not. It will also be a PKALL bypass. I picked that because most sellers seem to say they will flash it before shipping, whereas Idata and fortin, sellers say they don't. On the Expresskit website, it says the PKALL doesn't need to be flashed with vehicle info, but I assume the seller is talking about upgrading the firmware. I've got a few questions regarding the hardware side.. 1. Are there a lot of knockoff viper alarms being sold on ebay?           All the sellers seem to have sold lots of them and they all        have high ratings. 2. How durable are the viper LCD screens? 3. The 4706 says it displays interior temperature. Do they        usually come with the temp sensor? 4. I'll be wiring the starter and bypass w2w since, according to     the install guide, the only wires it needs are RX, TX, +12V,     ground, and ignition.      Is the PKALL good enough for the job at hand? I don't need anything fancy, door locks, door sensors etc, everything has to be hardwired. Should I also buy the Loader module for it? 5. Where should I mount the antenna? I know ideally it should be     at the top in the middle of the windshield, but on my car,     there is that dot matrix sun shield behind the rearview, as     well as what I believe to be the compass module in the way.     Can I just put it anywhere near the top? Is it just held on     with double sided tape? Wiring questions. Please Note that I have not purchased anything as of yet, nor investigated any wiring inside my car, just because I'm still in my research stage. I would like to avoid connecting anything at the SJB just because it's kind of far up the firewall and hard to get to. 1. According to my Alldata diagrams, my door pins, hood pin, and trunk pin all rest at ground. I'm prepared to diode isolate     the doors, but If I don't have to, I'd rather not. There is a dome light wire, that gives +12V when any door or trunk is     opened, and I'm more than willing to use that as a trigger, however, when all doors or trunk shut, the dome stays on for X     seconds, or until I press the lock button on the factory fob, whichever comes first. After install, when I press the new     lock button, will that give me any problem since it will think a door is open? Thinking about this right now, I suppose     pressing the viper lock button, simply trigger the power lock wire, the same as the factory fob, locking the doors and turning off the light.     Can I use the dome light as door/trunk trigger? 2. Regarding above as well, I notice there is a (-) dome light output wire.     Should I disregard this since I'll also be tying to the dome light wire to get     my door triggers? I don't want to create a loop obviously. 3. Parking lights. I have auto headlights. According to Alldata, my headlight    switch switches to ground to turn on the parking lights. It's easy to get to,    so I'd like to tap into just the switch. However, I've read numerous things on    here about ford headlight switches burning up when triggering a ground at it.    Why is this the case? Is it an issue with my car? I'm obviously not feeding    positive voltage into the switch. 4. Viper H/6 Orange wire. Ground when armed. This will be remote start only, no    alarm. There is a dark blue status output (GWR) in the 24 pin harness. Is    this Orange wire not actually there and they're just showing the same install    guide for everything? 5. Viper does not seem to have a built in anti-grind, so I'll be adding that with    a relay. Since I'll need to take two wires off the status output, can I just    wire them parallel or do I have to diode isolate? If so, band to the relay and    bypass? I just now notice that the viper has a flex relay, and I only have one          ignition wire. Can I use that relay? 6. Tach Input. Everything mentions to take the signal off any fuel injector.    Does it actually mean the injector or can I take it off a coil. (Coil on plug) 7. Factory alarm disarm wire. Pretty self explanatory, but my car doesn't show a    factory arm wire. Is that just taken off the door lock signal? Neither the         starter nor the car has one, I'm just curious how the re-arm works 7. Rear window defrost. I have auto climate control. Following my alldata    wiring, its a data signal from the EATC to the SJB, which then sends +12V to    the defrost grid. If I trigger a rear defrost aux output with the remote    start, does that output stay active once you turn the key and press the brake?       If so, I'll probably open up the module and do a much smaller PCB relay inside    to trip the defrost switch and get the full meal deal or defrosting everything.    More work, yeah. 8. The operating instructions say that after remote starting, when you turn the    key and press the brake, the park lights turn off (Or on I can't remember)to    signal the remote start ending. With my auto headlight (assuming its dark     outside), I assume my park lights would just stay lit solid? 9. Is a Bitwriter really necessary? I understand it makes things easier to    program, but can't everything just be done with the control button and fob? I Know I have a lot of questions, but I like to be thorough before attempting something. Forgive the formatting. I typed this up offline and when I copy/pasted it, it changed the line spacing. Thanks.

I forgot one. My factory hood pin rests at ground as well. Can I isolate this in the same manner as door pins using 2 diodes etc or should I run a new one? A local place mentioned that they would run their own hood and trunk pin because the car will send a pulse to the pin to make sure it's still there, or something like that, and that can interfere with the remote starter. Thanks.