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Installed DEI 4003 Car cranks but no start


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krod619 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2015
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: December 26, 2015 at 11:40 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote krod619
Hi so this is my first post i`m hoping you guys can assist me out with my problem. I am currently attending college and majoring in automotive technology i have completed my ase A6 automotive electricity exam and passed so don`t hesitate to mention anything.
Problem: Car will crank for 15 seconds and no start
Vehicle: 2003 Nissan Maxima Se 3.5 V6
Remote start Module: DEI 4003 Remote start Add on
So I wanted to install a remote start system in my car for the winter but i already have a oem factory keyfob and didn't want to alter it i wanted my remote starter to work off of the oem key fob so i bought this module. I didn't buy a 555u bypass module because i only have one chipped key so i just took the chip out of the key and glued it to the barrel of the key cylinder in a specific spot so the car now starts with any non chipped key i tried this with the homedepo $2 dollar key and it works.
I have double checked all my connections and solder all the connections and all i get is the car wanting to start but never starting. I have checked for spark when remote starting and i do have spark. When i activate the remote starter i can hear the fuel pump activate when the ignition is on but car wont start. When i start it with my key i smell lots of gas from the exhaust like when i start the car in cold weather.
I have tried to start it will the key in the ignition and same thing happens watch the video i have attached. I have noticed that when i activate the remote start the anti theft light will stay on when dash lights come on then go out when cranking. However when i normally crank the car over with the key the light will flash every 3 seconds even while cranking.
If i try remote staring the car with the ignition key in the cylinder it will continue to crank but not start however while cranking if i move the key to the on position it will start and stay running.
I have looked at other forums post and remote start guides but they all list the same wires and i have made sure there all installed correctly and i have programmed the remote start module to the tach wire. Oh one last thing when i used the remote start module to diagnose why it wont start it blinks three times which indicates low, or no rpm or low battery. I can assure you my battery is fully charged i drive everyday
If any of you guys need free factory wiring diagram I can get you them thanks again for the help this has really turned into a project
Videos
The problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hsQQ-d1URY
Normal start
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SCRRKNFMV8
Starting the car with key in igntion
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MlgIT5mVRbo&feature=youtu.be
Installed DEI 4003 Car cranks but no start - Last Post -- posted image.Installed DEI 4003 Car cranks but no start - Last Post -- posted image.
Factory wiring
Anti theft
Installed DEI 4003 Car cranks but no start - Last Post -- posted image.
Installed DEI 4003 Car cranks but no start - Last Post -- posted image.
Installed DEI 4003 Car cranks but no start - Last Post -- posted image.
Installed DEI 4003 Car cranks but no start - Last Post -- posted image.
Installed DEI 4003 Car cranks but no start - Last Post -- posted image.
dasbogie 
Silver - Posts: 514
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 30, 2006
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 12:16 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote dasbogie
are you spliced to all of these wires?
When you say you turn the key to the on/run position and try remote start and it starts, then it sounds like one of the ignition wires isn't connected to or is dropping during crank when it needs to be hot. in this case sounds like BLACK / YELLOW. If your car has starter 2 then most of the time the car won't remote start when the vehicle is cold.
 
12 VOLT CONSTANT BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS    
STARTER BLACK/ RED (+) See NOTE *1 IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS    
STARTER 2 BLACK/ WHITE (+) See NOTE *1 IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS    
IGNITION 1 BLACK / YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS    
IGNITION 2 N/A     
IGNITION 3 N/A     
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS    
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2 WHITE/ BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Advanced
krod619 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2015
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 3:32 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote krod619
ok so i verified all the wires on the ignition harness with a multi meter and there all correct one of the wire loses power while cranking but the other has power while cranking
i noticed i never connected anything to the Black and white wire its supposed to be a secondary stater wire and the remote start module did not metinon correcting that wire but when i connected the wire like in my video below the car now remote starts perfect except it now dies
when it dies i can hear the relay in the remote start module click off
so my question is how come the remote start can now start the car fine but wont keep it runnning
here are the wires i have connected
Installed DEI 4003 Car cranks but no start - Last Post -- posted image.
now how my car starts and dies
https://youtu.be/xpatLecS9b4
dairyboy3 
Copper - Posts: 52
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2015
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 5:19 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote dairyboy3
The second starter wire needs to be hooked up. Also make sure pink/white has been changed to accessory output instead of ignition. And I know you said its set to tach but did you learn tach on the brain?
krod619 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2015
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: December 27, 2015 at 6:41 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote krod619
OK so for the second starter wire the black and white where do I connect it to the remote start module does not list a spot for it so should I just hook it up to a igntion on wire
Tomorrow morning I'll do the tach relearn as well as program the unit to use the secondary igntion wire as a accessory wire
I'm curious about that relay disengageing inside the remote start module I can hear the relay disengageing then the car stops its like the remote start just kills my igntion on power to the car
lectricguy 
Copper - Posts: 355
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2008
Location: Rhode Island, United States
Posted: December 28, 2015 at 5:54 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote lectricguy
You need to add a relay for the second starter.
Refer to the diagram:
http://static.voxxintl.com/docs/tech/22/TOYOTA_TRUCK_2nd_STARTER_ISOLATION_RELAY_-_AVOIDING_CHECK_ENGINE_LIGHT_COMING_ON_AFTER_REMOTE_START_INSTALLATION.pdf
Disregard the Toyota Truck comments/title, the implementation is the same. Use the top diagram.
You need to use the Starter (-) output of the 4003 to energize the relay during crank. This is the short purple wire from the 4 pin satellite harness.
Lectric Guy
krod619 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2015
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: December 28, 2015 at 2:12 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote krod619
I did the tach relearn and used a relay for the second starter wire with Tigger wire from remote start module and changed igntion 2 to acc but still the same is happening I don't know why the remote start module keeps cicking off
lectricguy 
Copper - Posts: 355
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2008
Location: Rhode Island, United States
Posted: December 28, 2015 at 6:41 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote lectricguy
One curious thing, you didn't mark that you used the factory disarm wire.   Does your car have a security system?   Many Nissans enable a factory security system with lock from the keyfob. The factory key turned in the ignition can override this. Not sure if this is contributing, but many use the lock motor signal for remote start. To rule this out, you could remove the Activation wire and unlock the car. Then tap the activation wire to the correct state (12V or ground, as you have the unit configured) the programmed amount of times to start the car and see if it dies.
Anyway, if you believe everything is hooked up correctly and programmed, and to get more information about why the remote start is dying, try Remote Start Shutdown Diagnostics. This should indicate what the remote start unit senses about what is happening.
To perform shutdown diagnostics:
1. With the ignition Off, press and hold the Valet button
2. Turn the ignition On and then back Off while holding the Valet button.
3. Release the Valet button.
4. Press and release the Valet button. The status LED flashes to report the last shutdown for one minute or
until the ignition is turned on, as shown in the following table:
Status LED Flashes Shutdown Mode
1 flash Runtime expired
2 flashes Over-rev shutdown
3 flashes Low or no RPM
4 flashes Transmitter shutdown (or optional push button)
5 flashes (-) Hood shutdown (H3/4 GRAY)
6 flashes (+) Shutdown (H3/3 BROWN)
7 flashes Neutral safety shutdown (H3/1BLACK/ WHITE)
8 flashes Wait-to-start timed out
This will not reflect any issue with the immobilizer.
Hope this helps.
Lectric Guy
krod619 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 26, 2015
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: December 29, 2015 at 12:27 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote krod619
Thanks for the support guys I ha d finally got it working correctly sort of after I used the relay for the second starter wire it still did the same thing where it starts then turns off. Out of frustration came an an idea what if I press the the lock button three times instead of twice the car immediately started and continue to run and the heat came on and everything to turn it off however it only takes two pressed of the lock button
And yes the car has factory alram but it does disarm when the igntion is on and I did the shut down diagnostic and got 4 transmitter shutdown but it now works and that's all thanks to you guys because to be honest i was probably just going to connect the second starter wire to the primary starter wire but I said he's got a point and I had a relay laying around so I might as well use it
Once again thanks to everyone how took the time to look in to this matter I really appreciate it

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