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2008 Jeep Wrangler Viper 4806V DBALL2


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bigwalton 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 26, 2016
Posted: January 26, 2016 at 11:05 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote bigwalton
[[NOTE: Writing a long post with the intention of a full install since I searched and didn't find one for this combo. Questions at the end to finalize the install and then move on with the full documentation. You can jump to questions and then refer to details where needed.]]
Background:
The Viper 4806V unit was purchased a couple years back as a long-range (needed 1 mile or more for the intended use) two-way solution. I realize now that there are likely other easier-to-install options, no need to rehash that. I couldn't find a thread with this specific combination, so I thought it would be worth laying out what I did as well as asking a couple questions for final clarification.
Looking for the most plain vanilla install possible here with as little wiring involvement as possible just the long-range 2-way remote start and lock/unlock. No defrost or anything additional at all. Did not want to power relays in the unit that weren't to be used.
With the 2-way/long-range/out-of-sight use here, I saw zero reason for either horn honking or parking light flashing to draw attention to the Jeep, so I wired in a super simple 12v light under the dash for troubleshooting rather than bothering with parking lights and skipped the horn entirely.
Setup:
2008 Jeep Wrangler automatic transmission DBALL2 bypass module flashed with Standard 402.Chrysler V5.06.1 firmware and CHTHD2 T-Harness Rev 9 wired in the D2D mode. Viper 4806V 2-way long distance remote start kit.
Dedicated 10 ga power from battery run into cabin and grounds to a bolt in the driver side kick panel where other factory electronics are grounded. All wiring joints and ring connectors soldered and taped or heat shrunk. Any unneeded wires were removed from the connector with pins intact to thin harnesses with no chance of shorts. NO SCOTCHLOCKS :)
Programmed automatic transmission mode in the Viper unit (manual is the default) by using the control button on the remote to enter programming mode and changing Menu 3, Function 1 to Option 2 per the included quick start instructions. IMPORTANT NOTE: the driver door must be connected AND open in order for the Viper unit to go into programming mode, the quick start instructions do not mention that. I unplugged the door connector for the install to let it swing open further for easier under dash access and this was a major gotcha for me.
Wires connected in install are bolded, plain text not connected:
VIPER 4806V WIRING
Main Harness (H1), 6-pin connector
H1/1 RED (+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT - to dedicated 12V+
H1/2 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND - to grounding bolt in driver footwell
H1/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT
H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay
H1/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY - light flash polarity fuse in the (+) location, connected this wire to (+) of troubleshooting light with the (-) of troubleshooting light to ground.
H1/6 ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT
Auxiliary/Shutdown Harness (H2), 24-pin connector
H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA IGNITION 2/FLEX OUTPUT
H2/2 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT
H2/3 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
H2/4 BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H2/5 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
H2/6 WHITE/ BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
H2/7 WHITE/ VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
H2/8 ORANGE / BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT
H2/9 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) - hood pin installed in engine bay
H2/10 BLUE* FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity)
H2/11 WHITE/ BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT
H2/12 VIOLET/WHITE** TACHOMETER INPUT (Required input for manual tranny vehicles)
H2/13 BLACK/ WHITE*** (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY/PARKING BRAKE INPUT - grounded to bolt in driver footwell Ground for automatic transmission, connect to parking brake wire for manual transmission
H2/14 GREEN/ BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
H2/15 GREEN** (-) DOOR INPUT (Required input for manual tranny vehicles)
H2/16 EMPTY ------------------------------------
H2/17 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT - connected to small pink wire from T-harness
H2/18 VIOLET** (+) DOOR INPUT (Required input for manual tranny vehicles)
H2/19 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
H2/20 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT
H2/21 VIOLET / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
H2/22 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
H2/23 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H2/24 GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT
Neutral Safety Switch, 2-pin connector - connected and ON, installed in hole under dash by ODBII connector
Remote Start (H3), 8-pin connector
H3/1 RED / BLACK +12V FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
H3/2 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a key side (IF REQUIRED) OF FLEX RELAY
H3/3 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
H3/4 RED +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT - to dedicated 12V+
H3/5 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT
H3/6 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H3/7 RED / WHITE +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY INPUT
H3/8 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
Door Lock, 3-pin connector - Not Used
1 BLUE (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT
D2D 4-Pin harness - connected between DBALL2 and Viper unit
DBALL2 Wiring
Red (12-pin) and Blue (14-pin) connectors from T-harness plugged in.
D2D 4-Pin harness - connected between DBALL2 and Viper unit
CHTHD2 T-HARNESS WIRING
Connected between ignition module receptacle and factory ignition plug.
The only wire used of the loose wires was the small pink (see questions about Yellow/Black RAP OFF wire, I will edit this comment, if needed.) All other wires removed from connectors with pins intact and the wires leading to the unused black plug and the unused switch cut and taped off. (There is a molded black plug not used per the DBALL2 instructions and therefore the switch is inactive for this install.)
Everything essentially works for remote start with acceptable range with the connections noted above.
Questions for the forum for some refinement/troubleshooting and a couple for my own learning/curiosity. I wrote all of this out with the intention of using it for a full install post once I have these details worked out. Hence the long post to ask these questions. Hopefully no one minds much.
1) Probably related to 2) and 3), I did not yet connect the RAP OFF Yellow/Black from the DBALL2. During the test install (before thinning the wiring) I overlooked that I needed it and tested the remote start and found everything working and proceeded with the thinning/install. What function is this providing to the DBALL2 that I'm missing?
I will go back in to add it now that I noticed I needed to have it, but I'm curious what "RAP Off" is doing. The Jeep turns off fine when the remote start is killed with the remote or when driven and then shut down. If this wire is the fix for 2) and 3), I have my answer.
2) The Jeep currently plays the key-in chime when the Jeep is driven, turned off, the key is removed and the driver door is opened. It never happened in multiple successful garage remote starts/shutdowns, only after road testing the vehicle after remote starting and then inserting/turning the key to drive. I was hoping the DBALL2 would take care of this, once programmed. What am I missing to keep this from happening? Due to item #1?
3) In a couple instances, putting a foot on the brake to go into gear after remote starting, inserting/turning key to drive shuts off the Jeep. It is not every time. I didn't hook up the H2/20 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT, would that be the cause? I find it odd that it's not 100% repeatable.
Can someone quickly explain what the Brake Shutdown Input does for a remote start setup? I couldn't find a description of the actual function.
4) I never performed the Tach learn process because it simply worked without it. Is it actually needed if everything is working?
mscguy 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 28, 2015
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: January 26, 2016 at 5:51 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mscguy
I'll give it a shot.
1. Retained Accesory power (RAP) happens when you turn your car off, be it with a key, or after remote start shuts down. typically your radio, maybe wipers, other accessories, and sometimes headlights, will either stay on for a set time, or stay on indefinitely until the door is opened. RAP shutdown simulates an open door by breaking the doorpin wire, or pulsing it to ground.
2.   Don't know. I notice in a note on ready remote regarding tech doc 1084, but I've never used a t-harness so I don't know if the DBALL is taking care of that.
3. Your DBALL is providing the brake signal.   The signal is to shut down your remote start. If your key is in and turned to to ON, then the car keeps running. If its a dude that just broke in, the car will shutoff when he hits the brake. Are you inserting and turning the key before hitting the brake? Maybe you're hitting the brake a fraction of a second earlier sometimes.
4. You may run into problems in colder weather, or if something happens that makes your car take a little bit more cranking than it does now.
mscguy 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 28, 2015
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: January 26, 2016 at 6:10 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mscguy
Oh. While reading the DBALL guide with the Tharness, Type 3A install,
It says to Connect your Viper H3/8 PINK +IGN wire to the Pink wire in the T-harness. You connected the small H2/17 (-) 200 ma wire.
bigwalton 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 26, 2016
Posted: January 26, 2016 at 6:12 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote bigwalton
mscguy wrote:
1. Retained Accesory power (RAP) happens when you turn your car off, be it with a key, or after remote start shuts down. typically your radio, maybe wipers, other accessories, and sometimes headlights, will either stay on for a set time, or stay on indefinitely until the door is opened. RAP shutdown simulates an open door by breaking the doorpin wire, or pulsing it to ground.
Perfect, thanks. That makes sense now, everything in the Jeep turns off after a set time post-shutdown without a door opening, so that's why I didn't notice anything odd. I did try that specifically: remote start from inside and remote shut down without opening a door, just to see if anything stayed on, etc. and it all shut off.
Unless someone tells me that this is required for other functions I may not bother. This Jeep should never be started remotely without someone getting in to drive away in our use regardless.
mscguy wrote:
2.   Don't know. I notice in a note on ready remote regarding tech doc 1084, but I've never used a t-harness so I don't know if the DBALL is taking care of that.
Is there anything about that tech doc you can share or provide a link to?
mscguy wrote:
3. Your DBALL is providing the brake signal.   The signal is to shut down your remote start. If your key is in and turned to to ON, then the car keeps running. If its a dude that just broke in, the car will shutoff when he hits the brake. Are you inserting and turning the key before hitting the brake? Maybe you're hitting the brake a fraction of a second earlier sometimes.
Ok. Makes sense again and is what I assumed. I need to try it a few more times to see if I can make it repeatable. I thought the one time I left a decent pause after turning the key on. I definitely turned the key on, but who knows on the timing. Will check both functions
mscguy wrote:
4. You may run into problems in colder weather, or if something happens that makes your car take a little bit more cranking than it does now.
I figured it would be worth doing regardless, this is more for my own curiosity as I was surprised I didn't need to do it and the Jeep's been starting in sub-freezing weather.
Actually, I just reviewed the function diagram and it looks like the default Engine Checking Mode (Menu 3, Function 2) is Virtual Tach (Option 1). The programming sequence for the Virtual Tach is to perform a remote start, let it run 30 sec. and remote shutoff, which we've done, so I'm guessing that would explain it. I never bothered looking into the tach connection or programming because it just worked from the start.
bigwalton 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 26, 2016
Posted: January 26, 2016 at 6:13 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote bigwalton
Can't edit posts yet, so I couldn't go back to add a thank you, mscguy. Much appreciated!
bigwalton 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 26, 2016
Posted: January 26, 2016 at 6:26 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote bigwalton
mscguy wrote:
Oh. While reading the DBALL guide with the Tharness, Type 3A install,
It says to Connect your Viper H3/8 PINK +IGN wire to the Pink wire in the T-harness. You connected the small H2/17 (-) 200 ma wire.
Interesting. I didn't notice the difference in polarity and went with the smaller "ignition 1" wire because it was clearly a low-power circuit going into the Jeep (since it's a similarly small pink wire in the T-harness.)
I assumed two things here: 1) the large pink H3/8 would be for installs where you were feeding a high-amp start circuit and 2) that the Jeep ignition only needed an "output" from the Viper.
When I saw "output" and "Ignition 1" for both wires, I matched wire size. Again, not noticing the polarity difference.
Would seem some part of both of those assumptions has to be correct if it's working as expected. I guess the Viper isn't missing the "input" side of "input/output" from H3/8?
mscguy 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 28, 2015
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: January 26, 2016 at 6:40 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mscguy
I would still change the wire. Who knows. Maybe it will fix your key sense problem.
bigwalton 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 26, 2016
Posted: January 26, 2016 at 6:58 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote bigwalton
mscguy wrote:
I would still change the wire. Who knows. Maybe it will fix your key sense problem.
Thanks. Yeah, sorry, I figured swapping it is the way to go. This is why I pull wires out of the harness with the pins to thin harnesses rather than cutting wires 2008 Jeep Wrangler Viper 4806V DBALL2 -- posted image.
I'll be floored if a non-functional ignition input/output circuit (at the time of the chime) has anything to do with the key sense, but what do I know. That's why I'm here!
Makes me wonder what the use for the H2/17 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT is if not this. Sorry, just my curiosity again.
mscguy 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 28, 2015
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posted: January 26, 2016 at 7:04 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mscguy
Well, the most common use for those small (-) wires is to control additional relays for things. There are many vehicles that use 1,2, or even 3 of Ign,acc, and starter wires. So, you can use the those small (-) wires to trigger relays to create the additional circuits.
bigwalton 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: January 26, 2016
Posted: January 27, 2016 at 10:03 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote bigwalton
mscguy wrote:
Well, the most common use for those small (-) wires is to control additional relays for things. There are many vehicles that use 1,2, or even 3 of Ign,acc, and starter wires. So, you can use the those small (-) wires to trigger relays to create the additional circuits.
Exactly, to trigger a relay is what I figured too. So with it being clear that the ignition circuit being fed into the Jeep is a low-power, relay-triggered circuit (based on the matching tiny pink wire in the T-harness), that's why I used the small wire and that's why I think it works. The different polarities have me scratching my head a bit though.
I figured if it would be used to trip a relay for some other use of "Ignition 1", it must be fine to use to feed the Jeep ignition circuit.
Guess I'm struggling with the idea of the "input/output" label on the large pink wire vs. straight output like the small one. Maybe I'll throw the DMM on both on remote start to see if the polarity is indeed different between them.
Thanks for humoring my curious self. Now to find time to check this out more and swap things (still working fine.)
I think we figured out that one of the brake shutdown occurrences was actually the 12 minute timer timing out. Just a freaky coincidence in timing. So that question is answered, just told the wife to give it a couple beats before pressing on the brake after turning on the key.
If anyone can chime in (pun intended) on the key sense/door open chime, I'd appreciate it.
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