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2007 GMC Envoy Remote Start Lock & Unlock


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sevilliansts 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2007
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: February 12, 2016 at 5:17 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote sevilliansts
Hello,
I've got an 07 GMC Envoy Denali.
I have a Viper 4806v remote installed with a iDatalink ADS-ALCA
Best Buy installed it and I've had the truck back there 5-6 times now; lost count... for alarm going off at start, doors not locking etc....
Anyways, done with them... Right now everything works ok, except that when I remote start, it unlocks the doors and then never re-locks them. The blue light is flashing as if the module said to LOCK, but the door never actually locks.
I'm tired of this unlocking and re-locking at remote start, would like it to just leave the locks alone when remote starting just like on my 98 blazer that I put in a remote start.
I would like to let the remote start module do the actual lock / unlock if I can ??
I've got notes saying the factory alarm disarm is light green in the drivers door. Lock motor wire is Gray+, but then for Power Lock and Power Lock it says see note #1 in-which it says I have to have a bypass module; which I do. Can't it handle the bypass while the remote start actually does the locks ?
Thanks,
Brandon
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,441
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 12, 2016 at 5:38 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

Sorry to hear of your problems.  That truck is dead simple to do.  If I'm not mistaken the 4806 is a remote start w/keyless

only, no alarm.  Here is a Pictorial on your trucks sister vehicle :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130514
Same type of install, R/S w/keyless, using different modules.

There are many possibilities here on your install.  The two biggest are :

1.  Is the ADS AL-CA flashed with the DBI DL GM1 flavor of firmware?
2.  Are the modules communicating via D2D or W2W?

Basically, the Viper should send out a Disarm signal prior to the R/S.  The ADS AL-CA receives it and passes it along

to the truck via the J1850 Data wire connected to the OBD2 Violet wire at Pin 2.  Easy to check if the modules are in
W2W mode.

Here is a link to the ADS AL-CA w/DBI DL GM1 firmware :

       http://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-GM1/DBI-AL(DL)-GM1_20111004.pdf
The Type 3 wiring diagram shows the connections required by the bypass module.  There are still required connections
from the Viper to the Envoy ( power, ignition, Parking Lights, etc ).

Soldering is fun!
sevilliansts 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2007
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: February 12, 2016 at 6:14 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote sevilliansts
Yes, it has the most recent DBI DL GM firmware. I got tired of Best Buy and bought my own USB cable for the iDatalink and my own bitwriter for the Viper.
They are hardwired together. Odd thing though is it doesn't work if I unplug the D2D wire they left in there. I have the settings set to Hardwire as well.
Problem is, in the settings for the iDatalink, it asks if it should Unlock/Disarm at remote start if I turn this off, the alarm goes off when I remote start the truck. This is why I want to try to go around the iDatalink.
sevilliansts 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2007
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: February 12, 2016 at 6:50 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote sevilliansts
I'm reading through my install notes when I did my 98 Blazer with the 4204v. I was able to run the lock / unlock directly to the BCM and the XKO9 just went to the ignition harness wires.
I think my Envoy is having communication issues.
The alarm was randomly going off prior to them hardwiring it, and then after they hardwired it my tach signal wasn't getting transferred in which it would try to start but shut back off due to no tach signal.
So they shut off engine checking and let the OEM anti-grind handle cranking cut off.
I will say sometimes my heated seats come on at High and other times at Medium.
Anyways, my only issue now is the locks and I'd love to let the Viper Module handle it and stop messing with the iDatalink
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,441
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 12, 2016 at 7:58 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

Odd thing though is it doesn't work if I unplug the D2D wire they left in there. I have the settings set to Hardwire as well.

I think I would go all in for W2W.  Here is how to do it.

The original D2D harness should not be used.  In W2W mode, the ADS AL-CA harness pack contains a harness with

3 wires coming from the 4 Pin connector.  These 3 wires are Red ( +12V constant), Black ( Chassis Ground ) and
Blue/White ( (-) Status Output ).  These connections must be hardwired.

Anytime you flash the bypass module or want to change modes ( D2D to W2W ), you must perform a Factory Reset.

Then you can select the correct Installation Mode ( one blink = D2D and 2 blinks = W2W ) and lock it in.

Next is to verify that all the necessary Red Dashed lines are made between the Viper and the ADS AL-CA.  Notice that there

is a Disarm Only signal.  This should turn off the Factory Alarm system prior to a remote start-up making a Unlock before
and Lock after function unnecessary.

Also remember that the bypass module's Door Status only provides info on the front doors.  The rear doors have to

be hardwired directly from the truck.  Do a search on this as it has been covered before.

I have heard of issues with the ADS AL-CA GM1 firmware dropping the Tach signal.  Being as your truck has "one-

touch" starting, set the Viper to Engine Checking = Fixed and let the truck control it's own start-up.  No need to connect
the Tach wire between the modules.

Soldering is fun!
sevilliansts 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2007
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: February 13, 2016 at 10:46 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote sevilliansts
Thanks for all the feedback.
I think the Best Buy geek squad has been BS'ing me.
W2W is "hardwired" right ?
I think I was mistaking the "data" wire for the W2W wire you were speaking of.
Anyways, I cut the disarm only wire and ran it from the Viper to my drivers door module, bypassing the ALCA. Tied it into the Lt Green wire for factory key disarm; also went into settings and shut off all the unlock and relock at start and now everything does what I want. Truck starts up with the locks not doing anything until I press the button to get in. :)
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,441
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 13, 2016 at 12:17 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357

Yes, W2W is hardwired.  D2D is using the 4 Pin harness between the R/S and bypass module to transfer all the signals

via Data.  In your case with a Viper and the ADS AL-CA, in W2W mode you would see nothing in the Vipers DBI Data
port.  The ADS AL-CA would have that 3 wire harness plugged into the 4 Pin port and the Blue/White wire would be
connected to the Vipers Dark Blue (-) Status Output wire ( besides the +12V and Chassis Ground connections ). 

Of course that is the most common way to do it.  Clever installers know that they could plug in a modified D2D harness

into the Vipers DBI port that had 2 of the 4 wires cut, allowing only +12V and Ground through.  At the other end, the two
wires that supply +12V and Chassis Ground are left alone, then one wire is cut and another wire is cut and then extended
to go back to the Viper to get (-) Status Output.  Additionally, you can use the Blue/White (-) 2nd Status Output / Defroster
output, if programmed for Status Output.

While going into the door is a PITA, it is a very direct way to accomplish your goal.  Glad it's all working well now.

Soldering is fun!
sevilliansts 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2007
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: February 13, 2016 at 1:38 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote sevilliansts
I think that modified DBI port is what they had going on.
I told him I was not a big fan of it unlocking and relocking all the time. I think that is just the lazy way of having the truck disarm itself.
sevilliansts 
Member - Posts: 12
Member spacespace
Joined: November 22, 2007
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: February 13, 2016 at 1:39 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote sevilliansts
I was already replacing my window regulator too, so not too much extra work ;)

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