06 Pontiac G6 Avital 5303/DBall2 confused

IF you disconnect the H3 connector from the R/S will it start with the key?

lurch228 wrote: IF you disconnect the H3 connector from the R/S will it start with the key?

Yes I did and still the same Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

Other than a really dead battery that needs charging or replacing. What is the voltage in the battery with no load should be over 12 volts preferably 12.4 or more. If not charge the battery. Never had this happen before so if not battery low or bad not sure what has gone wrong. Something is amiss if it was fine until your last change caused your current issue. Hopefully it's something simple and not major issue like the BCM or PCM getting damaged. At this point you need to get back to the basic functionality of the vehicle. Start by unhooking the Negative battery cable. Then un-plug all Alarm R/S and bypass plugs that are connected to the vehicle. Verify the integrity of the vehicle wires in case one broke at your connection points, and all fuses inside and under hood are good. Then re-connect battery and see if it starts with the key.

You may have run the battery down with door open and starting multiple times. Each time you start the vehicle it takes 15 continuous run time minutes in optimal conditions to replace the capacity used. Can be longer in cold temps to recharge the battery with the alternator.

For remote start with DBALL2 in D2D mode these are the wires that need to be hooked to vehicle from Alarm R/S and Relay pack! 12volts     RED / black (50A)     +     BCM, C3, pin D1 / Connect H1/2,Heavy Gauge H/3 ,and H/6 Ignition     pink     +     ignition harness or BCM, C4, pin D3 / Connect Heavy Gauge H/5 ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 BROWN (+)   @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS or BCM, C4 RED PLUG, PIN C8, / Connect Heavy Gauge H/4 PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) BROWN / WHITE (-)   @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or BCM C2, PIN 5, / Connect H1/11 ( Positive or negative only not both) PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+)   @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or BCM, C3, PIN A7, / Connect H1/11 ( Positive or negative only not both) Chassis GROUND / Connect H1/5, and H3/1 BRAKE WHITE (+)   @ BCM, C1, PIN 24 / Connect H3/3 "Only NEEDED If DBALL2 doesn't function to shutdown R/S when brake is applied. Note* The BCM is part of the FUSE/RELAY BOX, on the Front Passenger side of the Center Console. The BCM has 4 connectors: C1, 72-PIN, GRAY PLUG, C2, 72-PIN GRAY CONNECTOR, C3, 41-PIN RED PLUG and C4, 68-PIN, LT. GRAY PLUG

lurch228 wrote: For remote start with DBALL2 in D2D mode these are the wires that need to be hooked to vehicle from Alarm R/S and Relay pack! 12volts     RED / black (50A)     +     BCM, C3, pin D1 / Connect H1/2,Heavy Gauge H/3 ,and H/6 Ignition     pink     +     ignition harness or BCM, C4, pin D3 / Connect Heavy Gauge H/5 ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 BROWN (+)   @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS or BCM, C4 RED PLUG, PIN C8, / Connect Heavy Gauge H/4 PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) BROWN / WHITE (-)   @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or BCM C2, PIN 5, / Connect H1/11 ( Positive or negative only not both) PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+)   @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or BCM, C3, PIN A7, / Connect H1/11 ( Positive or negative only not both) Chassis GROUND / Connect H1/5, and H3/1 BRAKE WHITE (+)   @ BCM, C1, PIN 24 / Connect H3/3 "Only NEEDED If DBALL2 doesn't function to shutdown R/S when brake is applied. Note* The BCM is part of the FUSE/RELAY BOX, on the Front Passenger side of the Center Console. The BCM has 4 connectors: C1, 72-PIN, GRAY PLUG, C2, 72-PIN GRAY CONNECTOR, C3, 41-PIN RED PLUG and C4, 68-PIN, LT. GRAY PLUG

Found the problem, it's brutal something so simple can waste so much time. I checked the battery with Vmeter and got 4.65 so I was about to pull it and have it checked out properly, it's only 10 months old. Once disconnected I decided to check again, only it was 12.74 I always disconnect the neg cable before I make any connections but this time when I put it back on I pinched the rubber boot so no solid contact, on now and all good, I'm getting 14.05 while running as well so that's ok. I assume that was the chaos when I hit start, thought I was off to get a bcm lol even though not funny. I'm going to start over and follow your relay instructions so I have two questions, (1) I removed the bcm to get at C4 for connecting ignition H5 rather than at harness. The bcm is labelled numbers down and letters across so when I go to D3 the igntion is two smaller gauge pink wires, I was expecting one heavier gauge pink wire, do I solder H5 to both or just one? I'll use the bcm for the H4 accessory as well. (2) next question is I have the accessory wire from the ignition harness going to the dball2 as per instructions, do I leave that connected along with relay accessory H4 connected to bcm?Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

That's why I started with the battery first!

liam66 wrote: 1) I removed the bcm to get at C4 for connecting ignition H5 rather than at harness. The bcm is labelled numbers down and letters across so when I go to D3 the igntion is two smaller gauge pink wires, I was expecting one heavier gauge pink wire, do I solder H5 to both or just one?

Just 1 is required as they are only low draw BCM switching wires that need to be powered. I connect to both to spread the strain out in case the wires get pulled. I also don't solder these wires as it makes them brittle and inflexible. Soldering non data wires is a matter of opinion and Technic to get a reliable connection. Do what works for you if that is soldering them.

liam66 wrote: 2) next question is I have the accessory wire from the ignition harness going to the dball2 as per instructions, do I leave that connected along with relay accessory H4 connected to bcm?

Connect only solid wires to DBALL2 when using D2D mode via data 4 pin plug. You are sending the signal twice once by data and once by wire which can confuse the system and cause issues.

I'm done Lurch, thanks for taking the time to help me out with this, very much appreciated. I enjoy troubleshooting but I've put more time in this than I wanted to, can't get my head around this one. After everything I've tried, I'm still getting shutdown code 3, "no rpm or low voltage" seems it just won't pick up tach for whatever reason. I got the unit new and cheap, I was fairly confident I could do this myself considering I'm a gas fitter and read schematics. I'm only keeping this car one more winter and I was hoping to take advantage of the long range remote. I recently found out that all GM 2006 vehicles are a nightmare, nothing but problems, could be related no idea. Just to recap, (I re-flashed the dball and programmed to type2, lock/unlock, trunk and cab temp all work on remote), (with the R/S blue/white I confirmed d2d mode), (learned tach with key, in the remote menu I tried both virtual and tachometer) and then the 3 pics verifying connections which we've already been through. Thanks Lurch Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

In the dball pic where it shows bcm c4 at the accessory, disregard that, I forgot to erase it, went to bcm c4 from relay for accessory.Since light travels faster than the speed of sound, some people appear bright until you hear them speak.

Ok if that is the only issue then you will need to connect the Tach wire between the DBALL2 and the remote start Tach input. As listed in the DBALL2 guide. [1] Tach wire is an optional connection required on some remote starters, which do not support a tach signal in D2D. You will need to change the settings back to Tach input on the Avital.