Power folding mirrors

The mirror load is far too low to affect them.

@ howie ll I follow what you mean! How about the 530T. Using a inversion of this mod Link:( 530T Modification ) to lower its sensitivity by Changing the resistor value to a lower one , or adding a pot across each resistor. Quote from 530T Mod "Exceeding 150 ohms when replacing these resistors could lead to failure of the window motor and/or module." So the original resistor was less than 150 ohms. The last unit Date/Code OK/0K to Present has resistors which are removed to increase its load settings. So it is using bleed resistors. So it can be #2 penciled to lower resistance until it works. This is a power mod used on PC Motherboards and video cards to over volt them. The #2 pencil scrubbed across the top of the resistor adds conductivity lowering resistance ie increasing the bleed off. Or you could attach pots across the resistors also. Linear taper Potentiometers provide a direct, linear relationship between wiper position and resistance division, so that equal changes in wiper position result in equal changes in resistance. So a for example a 100k Micro pot which has a lowest resistance of 100R (100 ohms) would lower the resistance to 50 ohms if assuming the stock resistor is a 100 ohms when in parallel. So the adjustment range would be from 99.999 ohms to 50 ohms. So based on the 530T modification doc. if we assume the original resistor was a 100 ohm and replacing it with a 150 ohm resistor raises the resistance setting a total of 100 ohms to 300 ohms from the max 200 ohms prior to mod. Then reverse modding should lower it a max of 100 ohms, making the adjustment range either 50 ohms or 100 ohms. Of course these are assumptions based on the original resistors being 100 ohms. Once we know the true value of the originals we can calculate the true value to change.

Good point and you just confirmed that your technical knowledge is far greater than mine! BTW, I'm a great believer in KISS and you can buy four 528t units for one 535t!!!

Skinning the cat! lol

Thanks for the replies/help guys! Last Sunday I started replacing the turbo and all timing belt components and just finished today. I should be able to get the values you asked for @lurch228 this coming Sunday Thanks again.

Let me know when you get them.

So I'm finally back on this project. I have hooked the 528t's up like @howie II said to in this thread in post #5: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=122988 But my mirrors aren't folding or unfolding? I have found the motor wires in each door. They rest at ground and while the mirror is in motion show 12V and continue to show 12V for 2-4 seconds after the mirror has completed opening or closing. The switch works even with the wires cut and the 528t's hooked up so I know power is passing through. On the 528t that has the blue loop cut the BLACK/ white wire shows roughly 5-6 volts all the time and on the other 528t the BLACK/ white wire shows roughly 11 volts all the time...should they show voltage? Any additional help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

To clarify there are two wires per motor/door. Both rest at ground while not in motion and show 11-12 volts on the opening wire while the mirror is unfolding and 11-12 volts on the closing wire while the mirror is folding.

Using the 528T's you are following @howie II wiring? 1st 528t, cut blue loop, BLACK/ white to ignition, orange to switch side of motor opening wire, yellow to mirror side. 2nd 528t BLACK/ white again to ignition, orange to switch side of motor closing wire, yellow to mirror side. (obviously cut both wires) Brown and red on both to shared 10amp fuse, 12v+ constant feed, blacks to ground. set timers to 4-5 secs. Job done.

djhemmen wrote: So I'm finally back on this project. I have hooked the 528t's up like @howie II said to in this thread in post #5: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=122988 But my mirrors aren't folding or unfolding? I have found the motor wires in each door. They rest at ground and while the mirror is in motion show 12V and continue to show 12V for 2-4 seconds after the mirror has completed opening or closing. The switch works even with the wires cut and the 528t's hooked up so I know power is passing through. On the 528t that has the blue loop cut the BLACK/ white wire shows roughly 5-6 volts all the time and on the other 528t the BLACK/ white wire shows roughly 11 volts all the time...should they show voltage? Any additional help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Both 528T BLACK/ white are connected to ignition and should show +12v when the ignition is on.