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Prostart CT4311 - Engine crank but won't start


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james027 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2017
Location: Canada
Posted: January 25, 2017 at 10:42 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote james027
Hi, First post here but I'm often fixing 12V stuff so it's probably not the last.
I just replace the remote starter in my girlfriend's 02 Pontiac Grand Am. It was a Prostart CT3400 and the remote was defective so it was cheaper to buy a complete remote starter. It was working good a month ago and the car would start without any problems.
Replacing the CT3400 by the CT4311 was a piece of cake. The connectors are all the same. So just unplug and replug everything on the CT4311. I even use the same wires to connect the new antenna. I cut the yellow wire to tell the remote it's a automatic and I plugged the idatalink bypass module connector at the right place. Note that I can't see any led (green or red) on the bypass module.
Now everything works (door lock, trunk) and the engine crank but isn't starting. I have to push the start button again to stop it or it would crank til the battery's dead.
I thought the problem would come from the rpm signal but the instruction says nothing except it's a automatic system that ajust by itself. I don't have the wiring diagram for the CT3400 so I can't compare wires position.
Do you have any other idea what I should look for?
Thanks!
silvercivicsir 
Copper - Posts: 395
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 21, 2003
Posted: January 25, 2017 at 11:38 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote silvercivicsir
The prostart is default set to an Xxpress's kit bypass, you need to switch to idatalink(ADS).. Mode 4 function 4, option 1 or hardwire and relearn the bypass. Did you learn TACH?
james027 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2017
Location: Canada
Posted: February 06, 2017 at 7:18 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote james027
Sorry for the delay. I've been too busy to think about this remote starter problem lately.
I didn't know for the Xxpress kit as default so I made no change about that. I don't have the installation manual right now so I found one online for the CT4211 and CT4311 that is way better than the one I had. It explain more option about tachometer. I mine, it just mention adjustment is made automatically so I had no idea how to learn the tach.
I will check out the "Multi Speed Tach learning” they talk about in this other manual and also check your info about mode 4... if tach learning doesn't work. For the hardwiring option and relearn, I will have to come back and ask you how.
I'll come back anyway. Even if I can make it works, I'll let you know how. I hate when I read a post that has no reply from the OP to tell what was the solution.
Thanks!
james027 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2017
Location: Canada
Posted: February 09, 2017 at 12:36 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote james027
Hi, I tried a few things tonight but still have the same problem of endless cranking.
Here's what I've done so far:
Entered programming mode to then Option 4 function 4 and selected option 1 (ADS) instead of 2. Transponder works for trunk and door but it was already ok for that. Maybe the "transponder learning feature" they talk in the manual already did the change:
http://www.prostartsystems.com/Docs/CT-4211TW-4311TW_ig_en_h70s62_VM20150821a.pdf
I went back in programming mode and did what they ask for Tach learning (pressed the brake pedal, then lock-unlock simultaneously and the light flashed 4 times like it's suppose to. Release the pedal, started the engine, waited 3 sec, pressed the brake pedal until the light flashed 5 times then release brake pedal and push the antenna button to exit programming mode.
It was easy to do and I was hoping it would fix my issue but after pushing the start button, the engine cranked without starting until I click the start button again to make it stop.
Any idea what is causing this?
By the way, the automatic tachometer detection system they only talk about in my first manual is call VTS (for Virtual Tach system). I guest it's not that good with my car!
kaezoo 
Copper - Posts: 125
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 09, 2017 at 7:48 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kaezoo
I don't think the problem is related to tach or engine sensing. If the engine sensing was an issue, the system would either not crank long enough to start, or it would shut down shortly after the engine started because it couldn't detect that it was running. A tach sense failure won't prevent the engine from starting if it's cranking long enough.
Either an ignition wire isn't getting energized during remote start, or the Passlock system isn't getting bypassed. What iDatalink module to do you have? Does the security light on the dash stay on or flash while it's cranking?
james027 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2017
Location: Canada
Posted: February 11, 2017 at 12:13 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote james027
You're right. Problem seems to come from the bypass module. The security light keeps blinking when it's cranking.
I though that the bypass module didn't need any programmation cause I just replaced the remote starter module and all the connectors fit perfectly.
But maybe there's no ignition going to the bypass module. The led on it doesn't come on or blink at any time. Would I need to program an output on the remote starter? What output wire should I check for ignition?
I can't quite identify the module cause it's a bit old (2006) and can't see the same on google images. It's smaller than the maestro and look more like the alca.
It's written ADS-PL (16) on it. Let me know if the way to program those is the same as this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmbUVue3iUs
Thanks!
james027 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: January 25, 2017
Location: Canada
Posted: February 16, 2017 at 1:49 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote james027
My girlfriend left me her car so I was able to check a few more thing this morning.
Like I said it's written ADS-PL on the iDatalink bypass and since I couldn't find this exact product, I believe it's a ADS-TBSL-PL. The instruction manual clearly shows it's for GM cars and a 2002 Grand-Am is a type 6 installation. But in the "Knowledge base" section they don't talk about type 6 at all!? At least I got the wiring diagram and the programming instructions.
I checked and the pink wire have ignition and the orange wire is connected to data correctly. On the 4 pins connectors, red wire has ignition and black wire is a good ground.
But I never saw the led on the bypass module turning on or blinking at any time. It should flash when engine is cranking but it's not.
I did the programming procedure to tell the remote starter it's a ADS not a Xpresskit (in one of my previous post) and today I did the programming procedure for the type 6 installation like they show in the iDatalink manual:
http://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/TB-PL/ADS-TBSL-PL_20110120.pdf
The led never turn on even after waiting 15 sec and pushing the button once. Should I totally reset the bypass module and start from the beginning?
In their diagnostic table at the end of the manual, they say that if the led isn't flashing when starting it's a "Invalid ground when running status" problem.
I can only think of a problem with the "Ground out when running signal" from the remote starter but really need your help here cause I can't find any clue in the Prostart manual on how it would have to be programmed.
silvercivicsir 
Copper - Posts: 395
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 21, 2003
Posted: February 17, 2017 at 12:16 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote silvercivicsir
have you tried a soft reset of the bypass? it's in the manual, and simple to do. try this first and if this doesn't work, you could have a bad data port on the prostart module. (i have seen this many times) since the bypass only does the key, you could try hard wiring it. you would need to switch it to mode 2 on the bypass, power up the red with 12V, blk with ground, and the blue wire with GWR.

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