Alarm working backwards.

So i installed my Viper 5706v. I connected the hood pin, trunk to my trunk wire, and door trigger to neg door trigger, however when my trunk/ is open my alarm thinks its closed, and when its closed the alarm thinks its open. if my alarm is armed and i open a door or my trunk/hood the alarm wont go off, itll only go off when my door or trunk/hood is then closed. if i arm it when my door or trunk/ hood is open and then close it the alarm goes off. it works backwards. the remote start doesnt work and siren doesnt chirp when arming/disarming. it isnt the shock sensor since i dont have it connected. if my alarm is armed and i try to turn car on, it wont start and alarm will go off. so that works good, car starts and runs fine. Doors rest at 12v and go to ground when opened. so i have it connected properly to negative door triggers. I am still testing it only with the drivers door before i do a diode isolation on the drivers/ passenger doors. is the brain bad or is there a way to program it to make it think the doors and trunk/hood are opened when opened instead of closed. i made a video: Car is a 98 grand prix. Main Harness, 6-pin connector 1     Red   (+) 12 VDC Constant Input             12V 2     Black (-) Chassis Ground Chassis Ground     GROUNDED 3     Brown (+) Siren Output Red to Siren        CONNECTED TO RED SIREN WIRE, THEN RED / BLACK TO GROUND 4     WHITE/ Brown     NOT USED 5     White Parking Light Output   CONNECTED TO BROWN PARKING LIGHT WIRE 6     Orange (-) 500mA Ground when armed output   NOT USED Door Lock, 3-pin connector 1     Blue (-) 500 mA Unlock Output CONNECTED TO WHITE 2     Empty 3     Green (-) 500mA Lock Output    CONNECTED TO LIGHT BLUE Remote Start, 10-pin heavy gauge connector 1     NC   No Connection 2     RED / Black (+) Fused 12V Accessory/Starter Input             12V 3     Pink/Black (+) Flex Relay Input 87A key side (if required) of flex relay NOT USED 4     Pink/White (+) Ignition 2/ Flex Relay Output IGNITION 2 WHITE 5     Red   (+) Fused 12V Ignition 1 Input        12V 6     Green (+) Starter Input (Key side of the starter kill)      Cut Starter and place inline 7     Violet (+) Starter Output (Car Side of starter kill)        Cut Starter and place inline 8     Orange (+) Accessory Output   ACCESSORY ORANGE 9     RED / White (+) Fused 12V Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Input 87    12V 10     Pink (+) Ignition 1 Input / Output          IGNITION 1 PINK Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector 1     PNK/White (-) 200mA Ignition 2 / Flex Output NOT USED 2     Blue/White (-) 200mA 2nd Status/ Rear Defogger Output       NOT USED 3     RED / White (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output     NOT USED 4     BLACK / YELLOW     (-) 200mA Dome Light Output CONNECTED TO (-) DOOR TRIGGER 5     Dark Blue (-) 200mA Status Output Ground while Running      NOT USED 6     WHITE/ Black     (-) 200mA Aux 3 Output       NOT USED 7     WHITE/ Violet     (-) 200mA Aux 1 Output      NOT USED 8     ORANGE / Black     (-) 200mA Aux 4 Output      NOT USED 9     Gray (-) Hood Pin Input   (-) Hood Status Input             CONNECTED TO HOOD PIN 10     Blue (-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input    CONNECTED TO RED / BLACK TRUNK WIRE 11     WHITE/ Blue Activation Input NOT USED 12     Violet/White*     Tachometer Input          NOT USED 13     BLACK/ White**     (-) Neutral Safety/Parking Brake        GROUNDED 14     GREEN/ Black     (-) 200 mA Factory Alarm Disarm Output     NOT USED 15     Green* (-) Door Input (-) Door Status OutputCONNECTED TO TAN DRIVERS DOOR TRIGGER 16     BROWN / Black     (-) 200mA Horn Honk Output CONNECTED TO BLACK HORN WIRE 17     Pink (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output            NOT USED 18     Violet* (+) Door Input       NOT USED 19     Violet/Black (-) 200 mA Aux 2 Output        NOT USED 20     Brown (+) Brake Shutdown Input   (+)        CONNECTED TO WHITE BRAKE WIRE 21     Violet / YELLOW     (-) 200mA Starter Output NOT USED 22     Gray/Black (-) Diesel Wait to Start Input   NOT USED 23     Orange (-) 200 mA Accessory Output          NOT USED 24     GREEN / WHITE     (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Arm Output        NOT USED THANKS!!!!!

I also found that i have a RED / white wire that is also 12V but i connected all my 12V wire to the red wire in my car which most forums said to use. To my knowledge i do NOT have a factory alarm, i havent a seen sign of one in 5 years of ownership. I dont know if a dormant factory alarm could cause these issues.

Video depicting my problem. Youll have to take my work when i say that my alarm thinks the trunk is closed when it is actually open. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFAkb8PNgDQ&t=2s

i havent installed alarms in a year or so, so im a bit out of touch on the new alarms and their specific programming but as far as the instant trigger is concerned there are different settings you can use to connect it to different sensors. the blue wire in the shock sensor harness is also an extension of the instant trigger wire. a lot of times on older cars the sensors in the car can be messed up or maybe the last owners replaced it with one that wasnt correct. with that said, if you disconnect the instant trigger from the trunk pin does the alarm work normally? the reason i ask is because these alarms have the ability to shut down their sensor inputs if they detect problems that would cause false alarms, so if the trunk pin is not working correctly then that could be the issue. does your trunk have a light that comes on when you open it? if it does then you could also use that to trigger the alarm when the trunk is opened.

also, from reading your post you seem to have some knowledge of testing the wires, but ill ask the stupid question anyway... did you test the trunk pin wire you connected to or did you just trust whatever wiring guide you were using? wiring guides can be wrong... just like it didnt tell you about your second 12v constant wire (which you actually SHOULD tap into), reason being that the car is meant to use the power of both 12v wires to feed all of the ignition and accessory wires. by only using one of those 12v constants to run the car you end up taxing the capacity of the wire and over time it can cause problems. but anyway, the blue instant trigger is a negative trigger by default, if your factory trunk pin tests 12v positive when open then that is your problem right there. if this is the case then i think you can change the setting of the instant trigger to positive trigger, but if not then you can always use a relay to change the polarity of the factory trunk pin wire

Maybe the simplest solution would be to put relays on trunk and hood. And yes my trunk does have a light that comes on. I'll try tapping into it and see what happens. As for the 12v constant wires do I connect them together? Or do I split the alarm 12v constant and connect it to the 2 wires separately? I don't remember what my trunk/ rests at when closed but I'll check

Trunk rest at12v open at ground. Hood rest at 12v open at ground

I noticed my door diggers stay at 12.25v closed and 145mV when open. Don't go to full ground.

Scratch that. My Neg door trigger needs to go from ground back to 12v to activate. My neg door trigger wire on the viper is at 12v. Same for hood and trunk. They need to rest at ground and open to 12v.

its usually ok for the doorpins to not zero out for a perfect ground because the alarm will sense the change and still go off. as far as the trunk and hood pins, if they test 12v while open then that is your problem because those alarm inputs are set to be negative trigger, meaning they should be grounded while open just like your door pins. if you look at the settings options in the manual there might be a way to change these inputs from negative trigger to positive trigger so that would be your easiest way to fix this without extra wiring. but if not then you can definitely use relays