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1991 Dodge Daytona remote unlock


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039c3 
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Joined: May 29, 2003
Posted: March 05, 2017 at 6:30 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 039c3
I have a 1991 Dodge Daytona base model with factory power locks. The car has a cheap "Spy" alarm/keyless entry/remote start. Reading the wiring diagrams for it, there are two onboard relays for door lock and unlock.
It will remote lock the doors OK but will not unlock them- it tries to do so but it's like there is not enough effort. The inside switches do both OK, although the driver switch was hit or miss. I took it apart and used some 1200 grit sandpaper on the contacts and it is 100% now.
I have attached two diagrams- the OEM setup and what is there now. The car is unusual in that it has only 1 OEM relay- the car will lock the doors once you hit 15 MPH. It has no unlock relay since there was no OEM keyless system installed.
My hybrid wiring is a calculated guess using the relay diagrams here. Using the vehicle database here, I did not find the mentioned wires at the driver kick panel, but did find them behind the body computer on the passenger kick panel. I made use of the OEM wire from the body computer and tapped into it for remote locking. I cut the P/B wire prior to the connector and checked the ends, connecting the switch side to 87a and the motor side to 30.
1991 Dodge Daytona remote unlock -- posted image.
1991 Dodge Daytona remote unlock -- posted image.
soundnsecurity 
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Posted: March 05, 2017 at 1:19 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote soundnsecurity
hare you tried interfacing the switch directly?
039c3 
Member - Posts: 31
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Joined: May 29, 2003
Posted: March 05, 2017 at 3:20 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 039c3
soundnsecurity wrote:
Have you tried interfacing the switch directly?
Do you mean running +12V to the P/B wire from the passenger side switch? If so, yes. It would not unlock both doors, the same partial effort happens. When I disconnected the connector by the kick panel it would unlock the driver side only.
I'm presuming the relay has enough juice to perform the job, it's fed by a 16 G wire that is tapped into the lock power feed.
039c3 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: May 29, 2003
Posted: March 05, 2017 at 5:39 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote 039c3
SOLVED
I had cut the passenger P/B wire after the splice to the passenger motor. Once I ran 2x wires into the door and cut the P/B wire near the switch (before the motor) this resolved the problem.

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