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Viper 5806V Remote Start with 1996 Jeep Cherokee


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-mj- 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2017
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 11, 2017 at 11:18 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote -mj-
Hello,
I have installed a Viper 5806V into a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The alarm itself is functioning fine, locking the doors when arming, etc. The portion I cannot get to work properly is the remote start. In fact, when the remote start is wired, it will not start remotely or via the ignition.
These are the wires that I connected for the remote start:
Viper 1 NC - NO CONNECTION
Viper 2 RED / Black: + Fused 12V accessory/starter input: Jeep RED / White
Viper 3 Pink/Black: + Flex Relay Input 87A key side (if required) of flex relay Not used
Viper 4 Pink/White: + Ignition 2 / flex relay output Not used
Viper 5 Red: + Fused 12V Ignition 1 Input Jeep RED / White
Viper 6 Green: + Starter input (key side of the starter kill) Jeep Yellow wire, key side only, disconnected from the car side
Viper 7 Violet: + Starter output (car side of the starter kill) Jeep Yellow wire, car side only, disconnected from the key side
Viper 8 Orange: + Accessory output Jeep RED / Black wire
Viper 9 RED / White: + Fused 12V Ignition 2 / Flex relay input 87 Jeep RED / White wire
Viper 10 Pink: + Ignition 1 Input/output Jeep DarkBlue/Gray wire
It does give me the 7 parking light flashes, indicating that I need to switch it from Manual to Automatic. However, I have followed the procedure over and over again, unable to enter the programming by holding the control button. It doesn’t chirp at all or do anything for that matter. These are the steps that I found in the forum to enter this mode, that I cannot get to work:
1) turn car to ignition then off.
2) hold valet button ( should be part of antennae) until it chirps 3 times
3)Release valet push once release and then push and hold . On remote hit lock , it will chirp 2xs .
3) turn car to ignition then off and it should remote start
Does the 24-pin harness need to be connected for the above portion to work? I did attach it at some point during my testing and grounded one of the wires, as that was suggested in another post that I read.
If anyone can give me some advice, that would be greatly appreciated.
silvercivicsir 
Copper - Posts: 400
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 21, 2003
Posted: April 12, 2017 at 3:09 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote silvercivicsir
need to make sure the blk / white is grounded in the 24 pin harness. did you also hook up the red / blk in the 6 pin harness? did you also try opening / closing the door, before you turn the ign on / off to get into programing?
-mj- 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2017
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 12, 2017 at 3:22 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote -mj-
Yes, I did try grounding the black/white on the 24-pin harness, connected the red/black as outlined above and also tried closing the door and waiting for the dome lights to go out before opening and trying again.
-mj- 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2017
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 12, 2017 at 3:24 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote -mj-
Just to clarify... There is no red/black on the 6-pin harness. Just on the 10-pin remote start harness.
kaezoo 
Copper - Posts: 125
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 13, 2017 at 9:02 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kaezoo
The door must be open for the unit to enter programming mode, so you'll need to have the 24-pin plug connected and the door trigger input connected to the vehicle wire. If it still won't go into programming mode, double-check the door trigger connection, and test to see that you have voltage on the pink wire in the 10-pin harness when the key is turned on.
-mj- 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2017
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 13, 2017 at 9:16 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote -mj-
Okay, I will try that. Can you tell me though, by not having the Door Input wire connected, would that stop the vehicle from being started with the key when all other connections are made? That's the one part that is still troubling me.
kaezoo 
Copper - Posts: 125
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 26, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 13, 2017 at 10:10 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kaezoo
Not unless the alarm is armed, in which case the starter kill will be active. If the alarm is disarmed you should be able to start the vehicle normally. Otherwise you'll need to use the multimeter to see if voltage is present on the violet wire when you're attempting to start the vehicle.
silvercivicsir 
Copper - Posts: 400
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 21, 2003
Posted: April 13, 2017 at 10:26 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote silvercivicsir
did you connect the Red (12v) and black (ground) in the 6 pin harness? [your post doesn't say thing about main 6 pin harness]
-mj- 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2017
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 13, 2017 at 1:39 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote -mj-
Yes, Red and Black from the 6-pin harness are connected. The alarm itself functions properly. Arming and locking/unlocking the doors.
paganus-rex 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: March 21, 2017
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: May 29, 2017 at 9:22 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote paganus-rex
I am having a similar problem with a 5806v in a van I have. I am fairly certain I have a defective product but I found a way around it rather than returning it.
The alarm was wired correctly and everything functions as far as remote starting.....except:
The starter kill relay would turn on inside the unit when the ignition was switched on and the alarm was disarmed. To verify I put bullet conectors on the 10 pin harness wires and if the ignition wire receives a positive signal when the alarm is disarmed the internal starter kill relay will activate and disconnect the starter circuit forcing me to use the remote start.
Next the ground while armed output is grounded under all conditions. I assume the unit is defective as I said before, but I need the GWA to run a relay to activate my voice module, a 545 light module to flash the lights, and also an automatic window module.
The previous problems are all I have found so far and the unit programs so I was able to take the aux 4 lead and run it via a diode to a relay for my GWA. The aux 4 LINE has a delay before latching to ground and would not trigger my voice module for armed so I also ran the factory arm line to the relay thru a diode as it pulses to ground immediately. My voice module now functions correctly like this.
To get around the module failing to release the starter kill I wired another relay with the GWA relay as an old school starter kill. When the GWA relay is on the starter kill relay is off and when the GWA is off the starter kill relay is on connecting the starter circuit. This functions fine now but was admittedly a pain to have to do in the first place.
If anyone has knowledge of something I could do to get the unit working normally such as programming I would appreciate it. I know DEI won't help me because I closed my audio shop many years ago and so no longer subscribe to their tech service.

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