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Avital 2101 Dome supervision Ford Ranger


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newshockerguy 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 11, 2015
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: October 31, 2017 at 10:10 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote newshockerguy
Ya'll helped me a couple years ago with my Avital 2101 and setting up progressive locks on my 2001 Ford Ranger. Yesterday I decided I wanted to see if I could get the dome supervision working since I never hooked it up.
I'm completely stumped on this one as I spent about 3 hours trying to get it work with no avail..
According to my Avital 2101 manual:
H1/3 BLACK/WHITE-1 Domelight Supervision Input
This wire determines what the output polarity of H1/4 will be. If the door pin circuit is negative,
connect to chassis ground. If the door circuit is positive, connect to a fused 12V source.
H1/4 BLACK/WHITE Domelight Supervision Output
Connect this wire directly to the domelight circuit in the vehicle. The on-board relay will drive
circuits up to 30 amperes. The polarity of this output is determined by the connection of the input
wire H1/3 in the Relay Harness.
Now I know my ford ranger uses negative for the door wires. From research I fond the following information:
It's a yellow/black wire behind the dash. On the dome light itself in my single cab there is a 12v constant, ground (which is a screw into the chasis) and a blue/red wire. The dome light circuit is the blue/red wire.
According to the avital it can support 30amp which should be fine since all lights in the cabin are LED.
I tried hooking up the H1/3 wire of the avital to chasis ground then tried the H1/4 wire to the dome light's blue/red wire. Hit unlock and the dome lights didn't come on. But I also read on my ranger forum that the blue/red wire actually as 12 volts going to it and it's only triggered when the ground is activated?
I then tried a 4 pin relay. I could hear the relay click but couldn't get the lights to work.
Normally I'd say screw it since it's not a huge feature but it bothers me that I can't get this working.
I do know that my 2001 Ford Ranger has a battery saver relay. So I have read on here that could also play a part in it. IE: All power gets shut down after 10-15 minutes or so until you put the keys in the ignition to rest.
How hard is this to actually do? I'm at a loss honestly because I just don't know what to do. Seems simple enough honestly that the avital is only 2 wires, one in and one out for the dome light so that's what is driving me nuts. I also tried the black/yellow wire behind the dash that in the above says it's the dome supervision. Then did the output wire to the blue/red wire but again, nothing happened when I unlocked the truck as far as interior lights coming on.
My Ford ranger has no power anything other than the avital 2101 I installed a couple years ago with only the driver/passenger door locks which lock/unlock via the remote. No other buttons are inside to do so. No power windows..etc.
Thanks,
-Nigel
~nsg~
newshockerguy 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 11, 2015
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: October 31, 2017 at 10:12 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote newshockerguy
I made an error: For some reason I can't edit original post.
The blue/red wire above for the dome is actually Blue/Black. Completely typo on my part. That is the wire I meant to say and that is in fact the wire I used.
Thanks,
-Nigel
~nsg~
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 31, 2017 at 11:43 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
Connect H4 to a + fused source, worth a try. Forget relays.
thenzero 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: October 23, 2017
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: November 01, 2017 at 7:40 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote thenzero
I'm curious how this goes as well as that's also the only part of my 2101 I haven't hooked up.
Have you tried putting a multimeter on that blue/black line to see what it's actually doing when you open the door? Might be that you have to flip the polarity of H3 (to a + fused source as Howie says)...?
newshockerguy 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 11, 2015
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: November 03, 2017 at 4:18 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote newshockerguy
I will have to probe over the weekend again I guess. When taking a multimeter to the wire what should I have it on to read? Just normal voltage or am I checking to see if it's +/ground...etc.
I believe I tried every combo possible and at one point blew out a fuse. You'd think for only being two wires this would be super simple to hook up. Amazing that it's not honestly.
-Nigel
~nsg~
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: November 03, 2017 at 5:36 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
The big rookie problem. Using a meter without knowing what to look for.
Use a 12Volt incandescent bulb test light, quicker.
2 or 3 Wires at dome light.
Clip to 12V+.
One will be a constant ground, ignition on/off, doors open/closed etc.
IGNORE.
Clip to ground.
One will be a constant 12V+ OR be open circuit and go to 12V+ when the door is opened.
If it's the second case, that's the one. And it's POS (+)
Clip to 12V+
Maybe third wire, if this goes to ground on door opening then this is the one and it's NEG (-)
thenzero 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: October 23, 2017
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: November 03, 2017 at 8:04 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote thenzero
I'm new to car electronics (embedded/avionics systems background) so I'll defer to Howie on how to test the lines.
I'm still very curious to hear how it goes. I may try this on my truck this weekend, although I doubt that's gonna help you since it sounds like a vehicle specific issue. I did google around a bit with your vehicle type and got this:
door wiring
This makes it sound like you actually should be wiring up to the yellow/black door ajar wire and let the GEM handle turning on the dome light (maybe it's actually a digital line) ?
thenzero 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: October 23, 2017
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: November 03, 2017 at 8:07 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote thenzero
p.s. To clarify what I mean: hook H3 to chassis ground, H4 to yellow/black
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: November 03, 2017 at 8:16 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote howie ll
ThenZero. I think you're spot on! That output should also be tested. i.e. set meter to ohms or continuity join H3 to H4.
Activate and meter should go from open circuit to 0 ohms or buzz.
davep. 
Gold - Posts: 627
Gold spacespace
Joined: May 27, 2011
Location: California, United States
Posted: November 05, 2017 at 12:29 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote davep.
On a 2003 Ford, the blu/blk is +12V with the dome lights ON. Connect one of the wires to the blk/blu, and the other to B+ hot at all times.
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