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2017 Tacoma H Key - Compustar CM7200 Install


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mis-fit 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: November 16, 2017
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: November 17, 2017 at 1:01 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mis-fit
2017 Tacoma SR 4cyl/Manual Trans (H)-Key (Base model)
Looking to install my Compustar CM7200 RS with Alarm etc, removed from my previous car. Have already bought an ADS-USB and flashed both the brain(V3.25) and Blade(AL-DL-TL9).
I'm really hoping for some guidance on this, as I'm feeling really close but not confident just yet.
My questions are:
  • Does the Idatalink diagram cover every vehicle connection needed, if not, which ones would still be left?
  • The SR Trim level does not have any form of Autolights that I'm aware of. Is the pictured relay still needed?
  • The main Compustar harness is all large gauge, however the ignition switch is a mix of large and smaller gauge wire. Is there an issue connecting say 2nd Ignition Large directly to the smaller OEM wire(after setting proper jumper)?
  • What is the best location you would you advise to tap for the 12v input(s)?
Parts list
-CM7200 V3.25
-ADS BL-AL
-Pro 901 Remotes
-DAS Sensor
-Siren
Probably missed something, all input welcome!
Thanks
2017 Tacoma H Key - Compustar CM7200 Install -- posted image.
2017 Tacoma H Key - Compustar CM7200 Install -- posted image.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,617
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 17, 2017 at 2:08 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Does the Idatalink diagram cover every vehicle connection needed, if not, which ones would still be left?
Pretty much all connections. Remember that the install guide wiring guide is primarily focused on the Blade
aspect of the install. It does not show the all of the CM7200s wires. Obvious things like Chassis Ground
is not shown. Other less obvious things like (-) Horn is not shown. In your case you have upgraded the
CN7200s with some alarm functions, so the Siren connection and the DAS are needed. You will have to program
the CM7200 to support the required two Ignition and two Starter outputs.
Just noticed you said manual transmission. The CM7200 would have to be set for Manual Transmission
via the in-cut Green/White loop. Additional wiring would be required to bypass the vehicles clutch
interlock circuit. Unfortunately I have no info on this. Basically, you have to test the switch(es) at the
top of the clutch pedal, find the starter disengage switch, determine how it works and to properly bypass it during
remote start-up. Usually it's by use of a relay controlled by the GWR signal.
The SR Trim level does not have any form of Autolights that I'm aware of. Is the pictured relay still needed?
No. The extra relay is only needed if your truck had an AUTO position on the Headlight Switch.
The main Compustar harness is all large gauge, however the ignition switch is a mix of large and smaller gauge wire. Is there an issue connecting say 2nd Ignition Large directly to the smaller OEM wire(after setting proper jumper)?
While it is OK to connect the CN7200's thick ignition type wires directly to the vehicles smaller gauge wires,
I always cut those wires about 3 inches from the CM7200s and solder on quality 18 gauge wires with the same
insulation color. This makes installation and soldering easier. Being as your CM7200 was transferred from
a prior vehicle, it's possible that some of the wires might need to be extended anyway.
What is the best location you would you advise to tap for the 12v input(s)?
While there might be other locations to catch the ignition wires, I usually make those connections at or
very near the ignition switch in the steering column. There is usually enough room in that area to run
the wires. In your case there are only 4 or 5 wires to run and two of those could be 18 gauge if you
reduce the wire gauge of the IGN2 and Starter2 wires like suggested above. I wrap the R/S's wires
that go into the steering column with Tesa tape and ensure there is proper allowances made for the
steering wheels tilt / telescopic movements. Depending on the R/S unit installed and its' features
and power needs, you could run the CM7200's power input wires ( Red and Red/White ) to the thick +12V
constant wire found at the Taco's fuse box instead of the Red wire at Pin 4 of the ignition switch harness.
2017 Tacoma H Key - Compustar CM7200 Install -- posted image.
Soldering is fun!
mis-fit 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: November 16, 2017
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: November 17, 2017 at 12:28 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mis-fit
kreg357 wrote:
Just noticed you said manual transmission. The CM7200 would have to be set for Manual Transmission
via the in-cut Green/White loop. Additional wiring would be required to bypass the vehicles clutch
interlock circuit. Unfortunately I have no info on this. Basically, you have to test the switch(es) at the
top of the clutch pedal, find the starter disengage switch, determine how it works and to properly bypass it during
remote start-up. Usually it's by use of a relay controlled by the GWR signal.
Thank you for the quick and detailed response, you are a wealth of knowledge!
In regards to the clutch switch, in past vehicles it has just been a pressure switch that goes to ground when depressed. I will have to test this one and see. In my previous MT installs I just sent a ground signal to the circuit sans a relay and and it worked fine.
Wanting to play it safe here and not risk anything on a new truck. Dealer prices on a fried module would probably require a kindey!
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,617
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 17, 2017 at 12:50 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Just found some info on the Clutch Interlock :
Clutch Pedal    YELLOW (+)    CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH, WHITE Plug, Pin 2
You will have to look for this wire in the connector and the switch at the top of the clutch pedal.
The test would be to see if the Yellow wire goes to +12V when the pedal is depressed to almost the
bottom of travel. If that is the case, there should be another wire in that connector that has the
supply +12V. All the switch does is pass that +12V through to the Yellow wire when the pedal is
near fully depressed.
Here is the relay wiring for proper clutch bypass :
Relay Pin 85 to CM7200 (-) GWR Output
Relay Pin 86 to +12V constant ( CM7200 thick Red wire )
Relay Pin 87 to Yellow Clutch Interlock wire
Relay Pin 30 to the other wire in the clutch switch connector that has +12V
Just a typo correction from the previous post. The Green/White Auto Trans loop wire must be UN-cut for a
manual transmission vehicle like yours.
Good luck!
Soldering is fun!

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