2017 Tacoma H Key - Compustar CM7200 Install

2017 Tacoma SR 4cyl/Manual Trans (H)-Key (Base model) Looking to install my Compustar CM7200 RS with Alarm etc, removed from my previous car. Have already bought an ADS-USB and flashed both the brain(V3.25) and Blade(AL-DL-TL9). I'm really hoping for some guidance on this, as I'm feeling really close but not confident just yet. My questions are:

• Does the Idatalink diagram cover every vehicle connection needed, if not, which ones would still be left?
• The SR Trim level does not have any form of Autolights that I'm aware of. Is the pictured relay still needed?
• The main Compustar harness is all large gauge, however the ignition switch is a mix of large and smaller gauge wire. Is there an issue connecting say 2nd Ignition Large directly to the smaller OEM wire(after setting proper jumper)?
• What is the best location you would you advise to tap for the 12v input(s)?

Parts list -CM7200 V3.25 -ADS BL-AL -Pro 901 Remotes -DAS Sensor -Siren Probably missed something, all input welcome! Thanks

Does the Idatalink diagram cover every vehicle connection needed, if not, which ones would still be left? Pretty much all connections. Remember that the install guide wiring guide is primarily focused on the Blade aspect of the install. It does not show the all of the CM7200s wires. Obvious things like Chassis Ground is not shown. Other less obvious things like (-) Horn is not shown. In your case you have upgraded the CN7200s with some alarm functions, so the Siren connection and the DAS are needed. You will have to program the CM7200 to support the required two Ignition and two Starter outputs. Just noticed you said manual transmission. The CM7200 would have to be set for Manual Transmission via the in-cut Green/White loop. Additional wiring would be required to bypass the vehicles clutch interlock circuit. Unfortunately I have no info on this. Basically, you have to test the switch(es) at the top of the clutch pedal, find the starter disengage switch, determine how it works and to properly bypass it during remote start-up. Usually it's by use of a relay controlled by the GWR signal. The SR Trim level does not have any form of Autolights that I'm aware of. Is the pictured relay still needed? No. The extra relay is only needed if your truck had an AUTO position on the Headlight Switch. The main Compustar harness is all large gauge, however the ignition switch is a mix of large and smaller gauge wire. Is there an issue connecting say 2nd Ignition Large directly to the smaller OEM wire(after setting proper jumper)? While it is OK to connect the CN7200's thick ignition type wires directly to the vehicles smaller gauge wires, I always cut those wires about 3 inches from the CM7200s and solder on quality 18 gauge wires with the same insulation color. This makes installation and soldering easier. Being as your CM7200 was transferred from a prior vehicle, it's possible that some of the wires might need to be extended anyway. What is the best location you would you advise to tap for the 12v input(s)? While there might be other locations to catch the ignition wires, I usually make those connections at or very near the ignition switch in the steering column. There is usually enough room in that area to run the wires. In your case there are only 4 or 5 wires to run and two of those could be 18 gauge if you reduce the wire gauge of the IGN2 and Starter2 wires like suggested above. I wrap the R/S's wires that go into the steering column with Tesa tape and ensure there is proper allowances made for the steering wheels tilt / telescopic movements. Depending on the R/S unit installed and its' features and power needs, you could run the CM7200's power input wires ( Red and Red/White ) to the thick +12V constant wire found at the Taco's fuse box instead of the Red wire at Pin 4 of the ignition switch harness. Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: Just noticed you said manual transmission. The CM7200 would have to be set for Manual Transmission via the in-cut Green/White loop. Additional wiring would be required to bypass the vehicles clutch interlock circuit. Unfortunately I have no info on this. Basically, you have to test the switch(es) at the top of the clutch pedal, find the starter disengage switch, determine how it works and to properly bypass it during remote start-up. Usually it's by use of a relay controlled by the GWR signal.

Thank you for the quick and detailed response, you are a wealth of knowledge! In regards to the clutch switch, in past vehicles it has just been a pressure switch that goes to ground when depressed. I will have to test this one and see. In my previous MT installs I just sent a ground signal to the circuit sans a relay and and it worked fine. Wanting to play it safe here and not risk anything on a new truck. Dealer prices on a fried module would probably require a kindey!

Just found some info on the Clutch Interlock : Clutch Pedal    YELLOW (+)    CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH, WHITE Plug, Pin 2 You will have to look for this wire in the connector and the switch at the top of the clutch pedal. The test would be to see if the Yellow wire goes to +12V when the pedal is depressed to almost the bottom of travel. If that is the case, there should be another wire in that connector that has the supply +12V. All the switch does is pass that +12V through to the Yellow wire when the pedal is near fully depressed. Here is the relay wiring for proper clutch bypass : Relay Pin 85 to CM7200 (-) GWR Output Relay Pin 86 to +12V constant ( CM7200 thick Red wire ) Relay Pin 87 to Yellow Clutch Interlock wire Relay Pin 30 to the other wire in the clutch switch connector that has +12V Just a typo correction from the previous post. The Green/White Auto Trans loop wire must be UN-cut for a manual transmission vehicle like yours. Good luck!Soldering is fun!