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Capacitor Voltage Display Random Issue and Whine


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cyrusthegreat 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: May 14, 2018
Posted: May 19, 2018 at 2:30 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote cyrusthegreat
Hello everyone hope all is well.
Have a slight issue that I’ve bever seen before. I recently installed a capacitor to my amp. Seemingly randomly, the caps voltage display won’t turn on and it makes a high pitch noise. I can’t figure out what causes it. Normally, I turn the key, the whine noise stays on for a second until the radio fully comes on and then the display pops on and it’s gone, but sometimes the display won’t come on and it just persists.
Has anything had something like that happen when installing a cap?
UPDATE - I also tested the remote wire and even when the display is off and it’s making the whining noise, the remote wire is showing 12 volts. The ground is also sufficient - tested that as well.
Thanks!
cyrusthegreat 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: May 14, 2018
Posted: May 19, 2018 at 4:53 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote cyrusthegreat
Also to add more confusion, the amp turns on no problem, the sub works and the radio works even when the cap is acting up, The cap is the only thing that has any problems. The remote wire at the cap shows 12 volts when it’s acting up too.
Perhaps I have a dud? Or maybe I need a different remote source? It’s currently wired to a switchable fuse as the amp was installed before I changed the radio, and I wired like I have any other cap I’ve owned. Remote wire to cap and then jump from cap to amp.
eguru 
Copper - Posts: 340
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 04, 2018
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: May 20, 2018 at 8:00 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote eguru
Sounds like it is only a problem with the electronics for the display itself. The capacitor itself and everything else is working fine.
I have no use for capacitors in automotive audio systems. They are a great profit generator and help cover up poorly done installations where the conductors are undersized or incorrectly configured.
cyrusthegreat 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: May 14, 2018
Posted: May 20, 2018 at 1:23 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote cyrusthegreat
I tried something and it worked, but I do not know if it's sustainable. I wired the remote turn on wire directly to the accessory wire at the key switch in the vehicle and it did the same thing. I tried using the ignition wire for the remote turn-on and that seems to solve the issue. I think something with the way the accessory wire may be powered in my car is causing the problem. I noticed that the persistent whine and lack of display seem to only happen when the radio kicks out for the car to start.
The question I have though is has anyone used an ignition wire for an amp remote turn-on and ran into issues with having enough juice to start the car or finding they have vehicle slow battery drain? I did check and the amp/cap shut off when the car shuts off, but they do stay on when the car is starting (albeit silent since the radio still shuts off until the car is started).
I've never done a remote wire like this so that's why I ask - I don't think I have any other choice to fix the cap problem because any accessory lead is likely going to have the same problem.
Thanks!
cyrusthegreat 
Member - Posts: 10
Member spacespace
Joined: May 14, 2018
Posted: May 20, 2018 at 1:39 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote cyrusthegreat
eguru wrote:
I have no use for capacitors in automotive audio systems. They are a great profit generator and help cover up poorly done installations where the conductors are undersized or incorrectly configured.
Idk - I like caps. I’ve always noticed a difference too in both stronger bass and headlight reduction. I had the same system in 2 cars for about 9 years now with a cap (just recently got a slightly bigger one) and have never had battery or alternator issues (first car I sold and the person unfortunately crashed) and second is doing just fine.
I agree - if you have serious electrical system drains and are trying to run 3000 watts on a 90a alternator, a cap is probably not a good idea, but on a vehicle with minor heading dimming and some loss of voltage with big bass drops, try can make a big difference

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