2004 Toyota Tundra Regular Cab V6 Remote Starter Wiring

found parking wire and got that. best way to run the tach wire through the firewall?Figuring it out, one project at a time

Find the existing grommet that has the Hood Release cable. Use a coat hanger to push a new hole through the grommet in a safe area. Apply some WD-40 on the hanger near the grommet and use electric tape to attach the Tach wire to the end of the coat hanger.   Gently pull the hanger / wire through the new hole.Soldering is fun!

Thanks. Any downside to a 1-Way remote? Would anything change with the settings or wiring if I wanted 2way remotes? Thanks for all the help. Wired and ready for remote programming. Fingers crossed.Figuring it out, one project at a time

No downside with 1-way remotes. They are less expensive and the batteries last longer that 2-way remotes. The Compustar CM7200-s R/S controller is very remote upgrade friendly. There are two antenna ports on the brain, a pin 4 and a 6 pin. ( Never try to use both at once.) Just about any remote kit will work. Check the remote kit box to be sure it will support the CM7200-s. These kits come with an antenna, the antenna harness and two remotes. Depending on the kit, one remote might be 2-way and the other will be 1-way. Range should be the same on both remotes. No changes to your wiring, just unplug the old antenna / harness and plug in the new one. Programming is very easy with your vehicle. Remote programming can be challenging on a PTS vehicle because you have to cycle the Ignition wire ON to OFF 5 times with a 10 second period. Instructions below : Remote Programming:

You must code remotes to this system before anything will function. Begin by cycling the ignition ON and

OFF five times within 10 seconds and press and release button 1 (half second) on the first remote, and then

press and release button 1 (half second) on the second remote. Soldering is fun!

remotes came. I programmed them. I hear the brain clicking and responding when i use the remotes, but I don't get a start. I hooked up minimal wires. I wired everything in the high current harness except the parking lights. I pulled the parking lights from the CM5 harness, as well as the tach wire. Am I missing something? Is the brake pedal wire necessary?   Anything else that would hold me back? Again, the remotes cause the brain to respond, so i believe they are programmed. Is there anything to do to initialize the brain?Figuring it out, one project at a time

I notice the brain outputs 12 volts to the GREEN/WHITE high current wire in the harness when I lock (1x), unlock (2x), and start (3x after start with the remote. I'm guessing that is the green white wire I needed? Also, that would not keep the engine from starting, correct?Figuring it out, one project at a time

The thick Green/White is a (+) Parking Light output. The blinks are normal responses to the remotes commands. It does not need to be attached. Can't remember what 3 blinks to a R/S command is. You could look it up. Did you learn the Tach signal? The Brake wire must be connected to the vehicle.Soldering is fun!

brake wire... got it. Tach learning - no. I'll connect the brake wire and then do the tach learning. Thanks. SidFiguring it out, one project at a time

OK. Starter works. It was the tach learning. now trying to figure out the parking lights... I still don't get parking lights when the starter starts. I used the GREEN/WHITE out from the CH5 not from the CH1 harness. Any help with the parking lights? SidFiguring it out, one project at a time

What wire are you connected to in the vehicle? The green/white in the CH5 harness is negative output.My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.