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5 Wire Relay Issue, Keyless Entry/Alarm, 1997 Chevrolet Suburban

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Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: August 30, 2020
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 30, 2020 at 3:51 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote dherweck1967
Members, need some help here. I've searched this forum and others and still challenged with an install. It's a generic keyless entry alarm (Installgear brand) install in a 97 Chevy Suburban LT with the rear cargo doors. I thought the vehicle had positive trigger door locks based on my original searches. I installed based on the directions that came with the alarm for that setup. The truck came with factory keyless entry but I spent a lot of time trying to troubleshoot that system and replaced relay, lock control module and remote receiver and still wasn't working correctly so I'm installing this to bypass the factory components. After installing based on positive trigger, it didn't work so I searched some more and from what I gather now, the rear window models are positive trigger door locks and the cargo door models need 5 wire relay set up to operate the door locks. Okay, now the challenge. The alarm unit "seems" to have built in 5 wire relay but the directions don't make sense compared to the 5 wire relay diagrams I've found on this site and others. The directions also have a +/_ jumper to set for triggers, 5 wires for the lock system with both + and - trigger saying not to use 2 of the 5 wires and a section that shows SPDT relays to reverse polarity but doesn't specify how or when to add those. From the factory diagrams and wiring pages on this site I don't know if I actually need to add SPDT relays to only one direction of the switch, or both or if the combination of setting the unit jumper and wiring that came with the unit should get it wired correctly. I'm attaching the direction diagram page the unit came with and a section of the directions that speaks to door lock and unlock wiring. If anybody has stayed with me this long and knows which direction to point me in, I'm all ears. I think I need to connect the Orange/Green (87A) and Orange/Black (87A) wires from the unit even though the directions that came with the unit don't reference using them. I also don't know if 5 wire relay setup means I use the + or - jumper setting and that changes how I connect Yellow/Green (87) and Yellow/black (87). 5 Wire Relay Issue, Keyless Entry/Alarm, 1997 Chevrolet Suburban -- posted image. 5 Wire Relay Issue, Keyless Entry/Alarm, 1997 Chevrolet Suburban -- posted image.
Gold - Posts: 624
Gold spacespace
Joined: May 27, 2011
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 31, 2020 at 12:45 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote davep.
I have a factory service manual for 1997 C/K trucks. All Utility regardless of rear doors are 3-wire positive polarity. Only pick-ups have 5 wire.
At the door lock relay (under center of dash) Term A white wire is (+)Unlock, and Term F Lt blu is (+)Lock.
Your system wires:
wht/grn and wht/blk = B+ Hot at all times. (Tap the orn/blk at the lock relay).
yel/grn = Lock = to lt blu at lock relay.
yel/blk = Unlock = to wht at lock relay.
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: August 30, 2020
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 31, 2020 at 11:42 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote dherweck1967
That's how I originally hooked it up. Hit unlock and it disarms and "halfway" unlocks driver door only. Then hit either lock or unlock and it arms/disarms alarm but won't lock/unlock any doors. These were the same symptoms I had with the factory keyless entry so it MUST be something with the factory components or wiring. It Will unlock driver door and then hitting either lock or unlock has no further effect. The factory relay Blue and white wires (where I have the + trigger wires connected to) clicks 5-6 times like it's attempting to do something every time I hit lock or unlock but doesn't lock or unlock. Since the factory relay is connected to/through the factory remote receiver and lock control module (in driver rear wheel well) I've chased/searched for shorts to ground or other wires and haven't located anything. I've even dropped the dash and unwrapped the cross body harness bundle to look for any nicks or wear marks. I've replaced the factory relay twice with new part and replaced both the lock module in the wheel well and the remote receiver each twice with junkyard take offs (new parts no longer available). The only current way to lock/unlock all doors is with the unlock button on driver's door. This tells me the actuators all work at least. I have quite a bit of experience with these years and types of vehicles and this is stumping me. I have typical electrical diagnostics tools including powered probes, short/circuit testers etc. All the grounds seems fine. Using a meter gives me 12V on both lock and unlock side of switch when either lock/unlock is pushed on physical switch. Hitting lock or unlock on the remote also sends 12V to both lock and unlock leg of circuit (white and blue wire in factory circuit). It "seems" to me the blue and white wire are circuit shorted to each other but I can't find any short when disconnecting harness sections and continuity testing each section separately.
Platinum - Posts: 1,332
Platinum spacespace
Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: August 31, 2020 at 8:08 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote Ween
Is the lock and unlock pulse long enough? If you manually connect/tap the lock or unlock wire to power, do the locks operate the same way as the switch on the door?
Does a shorter tap give intermittent operation, whereas a longer tap more "positive" operation?   Have you disconnected say the rear door actuators and tested operation? Tested voltage at an individual actuator, when operating of course? Since you've replaced the door lock relay itself, have you checked the battery feed to it? Enough voltage across power and ground at the relay? What's the voltage at the outputs of the relay? Could the actuators be worn out?... 20+ years old

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