Thoughts On DIY Wiring Setup For An Aftermarket Power Window Switch?

This is for 2001 Acura Integra with over 250 thousand miles, with first model year being 1994. My 'best' car electrical experience is 'hardwiring' a dashcam, and crimping aftermarket speaker/radio. Every once in a while the passenger side window will refuse to remove. This, after replacing the power window motor and ensuring the regulator teeth/gears are in proper working order. It's not possible to buy new OEM switches, so I've decided to install a new 'universal' switch and route new 20 gauge wires near the door hinges and into the door panel. I'd like to leave the OEM passenger window switch there, in case next owner of car decides to 'restore' it or what not. I've included an image, with the red lines representing the wires I'll be routing to the 5 point switch. 2 main questions arise:

1. Can I place the fuse tap to the fuse location already assigned by the manufacturer? If so, do I have to unplug the 5 point molex connector to the stock power window switch? Or is just unplugging the 2 point connector to the power window motor enough?
2. The 2 ground connections from the aftermarket switch, can they share the same location? I.e. place/overlap 2 ring terminals on top of each other and just bolt them to somewhere on the metal door?

The following is an image of my car's under dash fuse box, where I connected the dash cam to as well.

I have never done the switch thing before so I'm no help there but we get a lot of older model hondas that the molex plug (between car and door) has a bunch of corrosion in it. Use some tuner wash/cleaner on it and everything works after that. Seen speakers door locks and windows all not working. Might check see if that your problem33 years as a installer now just a retired old guy. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!

Thank you for the helpful response. I've gone ahead an purchased 'DeoxIT D100 Precision Needle'. I'm still interested in routing the wire through the door at the minimum, and be ready to crimp said wires directly to the motor if need be. Edit: problem persists after spraying terminal connections with CRC QD electrical contact spray.