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2007 Ford Expedition, OEM Amp Pin Out


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skeer 
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Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: November†06, 2021 at 10:05 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote skeer
So I picked up an oem sub with amp out of an 07 Expedition with some sort of Audiophile setup thing. Anyway, Iíve tested the subwoofer and it works, what Iím wanting to do is test the amp, but I cannot determine if itís speaker level inputs or low level.
I also donít quite know what will happen if I try speaker level when it wants low.. or vice versa. Will it damage the amp? The amps part number is: 7l2t-18c808-AA
Thanks!!
i am an idiot 
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Posted: November†06, 2021 at 5:47 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote i am an idiot
It uses low level input. Do you have the plug with any of the wires on it? Do you have a multimeter?
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win.
skeer 
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Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: November†08, 2021 at 5:50 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote skeer
I do! To both questions, although I have no clue hoe to tell one from the other with a multimeter.
i am an idiot 
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Posted: November†08, 2021 at 8:41 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote i am an idiot
Can you either post a picture of the plug, or tell me the wire colors and which 2 wires are larger than the others?
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win.
mgoetz74 
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Posted: November†11, 2021 at 11:23 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mgoetz74
sub enable violet/red   amp turn on/switched wire, side not this wire maybe only 6 volts. if you run 12 volt to it you may get a loud pop noise every time it turns on
ground black/blue
12 volt + brown/red    battery/constant
sub audio input + violet/green
sub audio input - green/white
31 years as a installer. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!
skeer 
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Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: November†20, 2021 at 3:51 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote skeer
@mgoetz74
Thanks!
skeer 
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Joined: April†19, 2011
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: December†04, 2021 at 9:45 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote skeer
Ok so I've gotten a bit further on testing this hardware. So as I mentioned originally I found this OEM amp and 8" DVC sub setup in an '07 Expedition, and I'm testing it on an '09 F150 supercrew. So thanks to Mgoetz74 that pinout he gave me worked perfectly, my issue currently is input levels.
Since I'm just testing this, I didn't want to spend any money on it until I'm confident the speaker and amp are operational as they should be. So with that in mind, I found a simple LOC circuit here: Line Out Convertor circuit diagram
So I'm using a signal feed spliced off one of the rear door speakers and into my DIY LOC breadboard.. I dug through my parts stash and put together a series of resistors adding up to 1100 ohms for R1, and then a single 1k ohms one for R2. This helped clarify the sound MUCH better.. the sub was not clipping like before. But it's still pretty loud when volume is lower than normal.
So understanding that the resistors are lowering the voltage from the head unit, I added a couple more, then a couple more... All totaled I'm at 33k ohms and between 12k and 33k I cannot tell it made any difference. I don't have a trim pot, or any potentiometers to try. And my systems is the factory one so there's no way it's pushing more than maybe 20-25 watts so throwing more resistance I don't feel will help matters.
I do not *believe* that there's any sort of OEM amp in play but I have not removed the console to verify. I'm looking for advice on how to tackle this. Is maybe the amp hosed?
Thanks!
i am an idiot 
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Posted: December†04, 2021 at 3:21 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote i am an idiot
Increase the value of only R1
Let's Go Brandon Brown. Congratulations on your first Xfinity Series Win.
skeer 
Member - Posts: 24
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Joined: April†19, 2011
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: December†05, 2021 at 6:24 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote skeer
So I figured it out and it's all my fault. I must have misread the fluke when I checks R2, it should have been 1k, instead it was 100k. Yeah... I know. When I discovered that I also found another stash of resistors so I re-worked the breadboard. I've tried 11k ohms for R1, and 13k ohms.. I think it sounds better at 13k.
So anyway it's all good and for being oem it can pack a punch. Thanks for the help!

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