Stacking or Bridging Factory Mopar Infinity Amps

I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota sport with the mid level ( I assume )Infinity split 5 1/4 component front (mid bass door/ A-pillar tweeter) and rear full or co axial 6.5" rear door amplified system . What I want to do is keep my factory 62 watt Mitsubishi 3 band E.Q. high line out Deck that the 180 watt (?) Infinity 4 channel receives and then sends out to the speakers. In actuality some had previously installed some nice sounding J.L. Audio Evolution TR650 CWi 5 1/4 & tweeter components in the front, and actually had the newer(2016) 6.5 Boston Acoustics in rear doors. This somewhat factory running system sounded damned good at MAX volume, which is where the knob stays if I can make it happen, till the left rear pulled the suspension spring from the metal basket. I'm old ( 30+ years collecting stuff) and have all kinds of upgrade components I could install now that it needs repair. OK....so my idea is to Bridge or literally Stack two full sets of that Infinity very slim amp to power one half of the monoaural stereo signal ( L & R )from each bridged set, but do not know if the amps can handle my design. They are in fact from the same year model Dakotas, same part #'s,same verified connector color codes/pin-outs, and theoretically should be able to do it using twin 6.5 component sets run in not front / rear, but Left / Right non- faderable configuration. Then at the same time I'll tap one line out set with a line level/RCA converter and run my old Kicker 360.4 and power up the twin Fosgate subs I'm going to try and stuff into my center console using all the available space it has for them to breathe, and run them bridged mono. The reason for all of this is I LOVE bulletproof Japanese audio(mitsu) decks, and these Dakota's have the least amount of room ANYWHERE in the vehicle for multiple amps and subs. The Kicker barely fits under the club cab seat when it's in the down position, and I have twins so its always down. I have 30 yrs auto electrical experience but mostly Driveability and not telematics or predominately audio electrical. Since these Infinity amps do not have the Master/Slave ability or even preamp luxury I am wondering if it is even possible, because if it is I can probably guess at how happy I'll be getting my eardrums blown out by my now clean high powered engineered quasi-factory one of a kind system. I know someone out there smarter and more knowledgeable than I has the answer to my quest. Call me crazy, definitely not lazy, and do so love a challenge of " Can It Be Done" and am quite curious if a line level amp can be bridged successfully and and have good sound quality at a high power level. Please oh wise one out there enlighten me, and many thanks.Slewis1

OK, ...so here's the skinny on the progress of the twin 180 watt (?) amplifiers install progress. Due to no responses I figure I'll answer some of my own questions and possibly give some EXCELLENT advice on tweaking the Chrysler Infinity system. I had gone to the junkyard several times to try to figure out which platforms had what, and whether they would do me any good. For some reason I was having a hard time believing everyone prefers to bypass such a great engineered system by Infinity Labs, tuned to the interior of your particular vehicle. FIRST, I had to figure out what I had in my 2001 Dakota Sport Club Cab, so off came the panels. Come to find out the previous owner had replaced the front components with JL Audio TR650-CSi 50watt rms 75 max 59-22Khz 4 ohm 91 spl, no wonder the front always sounded so good. Keep in mind though the infinity set I located in the junkyard had a tweeter paralleled in the woofer wiring, it was listed @ 12 ohms on the label, and had a cap filter of 50uf @ 100v, do not know if filter was stock and it was from a Durango, which coincidently is where the two amps came from. The reason being the Durango has front AND rear tweeters, and I did not know where I was going. Interestingly enough this started out as just a crackling left rear and for some reason I never could get some CD's to sound right, the front ALWAYS seemed louder, even finding out front = 4 ohm, rear = 2 ohm, verified. after pulling the panel I find what I BELIEVE to be two newer 2016 Boston Acoustics 2 ohm 6.5 coaxials that the spider had pulled away from the frame on the left rear 6.5. What I ultimately came to the conclusion is although on the JEEP (ALLPAR) site there is one bridged HEAD/deck spec, I however didn't actually need it bridged, but a PARALLELED Head Unit, twin identical spliced conns and wiring, so as to run two 180 watter amps and 8 sets of speakers. So...... the junkyard gave me two RAZ CD/Tape decks like mine,JUST TO BLOW UP TESTING paralleling CAPABILITIES. Because these decks can fault power curcuits and shut the amp channels down, verified. At any rate here is some pics of the Amplifier splices/LOC/and future planned parts. THE JUNKYARD FIND= a 2011 VW ROUTAN ,yes ROUTAAN (T&C) with the 9 channel 2x2.5 2ohm rear pillar tweets, 3x3.5 2ohm I.P. Full?Mid? wich the center channel is paralleled off the L&R I.P. +/- wth?, 2x 6x9 2ohm coaxial rear, and a 8" D.V.C. 2ohm per sub in an enclosure in the rear. I also took the liberty to relieve them of the factory 300watt power inverter and extra aux power outlet that sits on the left side where the DVD outlets are( don't need). SO WHATS THE EXCELLENT ADVICE, I can say that right now I'm not even finished but the volume/clarity/and BASS from those Infinity 6x9 coaxes...probably DOUBLED with ONLY 1 Durango Infinity 4 channel amp. Also the 6.5's got fixed as well but the plan changed because of uncertainty. PROBLEM= the factory Infinity paper coned speakers only last so long and either disintegrate, or pull away from baskets , surround disintegrates. THE FIX to TOTAL durability/longivety, take the paper speakers and clean the spot next to the spider and basket with a Q-tip and alcohol, dont go overboard. THEN carefully with a small paintbrush place clear Goop/Gorilla Glue/ E-6000 just at the first edge of the spider and frame. The TOUGHEST glue I've ever encountered. Let that dry. THEN taake some INDIAN HEAD SHELLAC Head Gasket compound (I'm Old Gearhead) and carefully totally cover the underside paper, and the topside surround right where the factory glue line is all the way down to 1/4-1/2" of the cone. Also shellac the coaxial cone and up the same 1/4-1/2" and the wires glued to the paper. LET ME TELL YOU WHAT THIS DOES, it bulletproofs the speakers to where the power capabilities are actually unknown to me, but WAAAAYYY more than they were. AND all the tones and especially the BASS is considerably increased, again I dont know. WHY? They are both permanently secured to the baskets by the gluing, and cant be blown away from the frame that glue is sooooo tough, and the shellac adds WEIGHT to the mass of the paper cone thereby increasing frequency and SPL. Also while I was in the junkyard, and after mucho reasearch I came across a JEEP system with the ALPINE RBP 66 watt CD Changer Head Unit that from what I understand will give me Bluetooth I-phone linkup so I wont have to install that 3.5 aux input jack using the CD changer ability. ( I haven't found a tape converter or aftermarket BlueTooth device that doesn't produce unwanted noise. So hopefully Win-Win!!!!) I'll post if the paralleled RAZ Head unit burns up, because my original post's ANSWER is due to splitting the signals into IDENTICAL AMPLIFIER parallel OUTPUT's it creates a 1/2 the Amps wanted resistance so if it's 2 0hm stable output, which it would have to be given speaker impeadance specs, it would now be 1 ohm, and I'm a believer in Infinity systems ( 30 yr tech, ALL makes and models) but dont know how well the magic smoke would stay in the box!! Coincedently it appears the RBP Alpine Deck P05091606AC has no code generating, has the same 2 ohm driving specs, so my quasi Infinity/Alpine/JL Audio,Fosgate PUNCH 6.5 MidBass,Pioneer Mid/Tweets,BMW D.V.C. 6.5 SUB,Pyle 6.5 3-Way additional s,and the TWO 6.5 Pyle 4 ohm DVC subs wired series parralel Isobaric phased(space) in the custom reinforced center console( there's NO room in this truck ANYWHERE!) powered with 1 180 watt FACTORY Infinity 4 chnl to altered stock n JL's, 1 KICKER ZX350.4 bridged to two 100 watt chnl for rear punch-n-tweets, 1 Fosgate PUNCH 200.4 bridged to 2 chnl for Pyle fronts, and 1 Pioneer GM-X372 Bridged to 1 chnl 120 watts for the console 8 ohm series 4 parallel iso subs. I'll say right now that just the 6x9's/JL's/and the 180 Infinity Amp it's already so loud I don't know if the windows will pop if I wire in all these extras... but hey, ya only live once and I don't like limited possibilities.... ENJOY!!Slewis1

Sorry for the no-pics, apparently I'm still a Newb, with no post privs, ..I digress, seriously, all this for a rattling left rear.... and that eardrum barely works! TMI , well it's morphed once again into what I do not know. Currently trying to solder up my 10 pin CD changer input for hopefully an AUX input and changing the Mitsu RAZ CD/Cassette deck (which BTW sounded TOTALLY different when running a Durango's 36670 3029 INF Amp vs. my Dakota's 36670C 3129 ) with the Alpine built RBP CD/Caassette/CD Changer out of a 2004 Jeep Overlander. I hope it works WITHOUT the actual changer from switched ground input ?? and whatever mv's the I-phone put's out? Then that custom center console 1 Sub-Box-and twin channels of woof-mid-full-tweets Speaker Cabinet nightmare extraviganza. Someone fell free to jump in here and tell me to stop any time now cuz my kids are wanting a place to sit , like a month and a half ago....it's just one of those, well over 30 yr's of jammin audio component's piled high and dusty nobody will give you .30c on the dollar might as well see what I can build kinda things. That and bein an idiot with apparently too much time on my handS.... NOT. Seriously, someone with definitive know chime in on the AUX through CD changer input W/out the changer before I get into March.....or April....Slewis1

Well it's officially Mid-March spring break and this audio engineering project has made me want to take a dirt-nap many times. Re-Re-Re Engine...neeered, by an apparent KnumbSkull probably a relative of "Shimp" from the Three Stooges! So tried to no avail to get the Alpine RBP Head Unit's CD Changer capability to function w/out the actual CD changer so it must use PCI buss data to initiate the handshake to allow audio input from a switched 3.5mm AUX port. so I've decided to just wait to disassemble the Mitsubishi RAZ Head unit to solder the cable to the FM board. I like my 3 band EQ capability on that deck even though it's a few watts down from the Alpine. However interestingly enough I benched the Alpine and it's got a better feature array like Clock, VolumeLvL, Fader Indicator, in the blueish Dot Matx, whereas my original Mitsu does not. Still....the EQ, even though I will be using a Active EQ, makes me feel like it's got more tuning. On the amps, currently using the Durango's Amplifier due to what I originally thought was my BCM KOEO handshake tuning the Dokota's amp down to match cabin(poss)? It does have different internals and most likely turned out to be the internal crossovers in the 8 speaker Durango's amp dampening mismatch with my BCM causing a flat EQ response like the nomenclature states. Either that or it just plain thumps harder, louder, clearer, and with more Bass due to the fixed internal cabin-matched crossover, which would require more power to produce sufficient waves. At any rate, so, the speaker setup has fluctuated abit due to not really having room for that Kicker Amp, or any other for that matter, other than that tiny 2ohm or better stable, kick-panel, Infinity amp that sound level and clarity wise astounds me, really. Don't know why posters hate on them and bypass, I got all 10 speakers out of a 2013 VW ROUTAN(CHYS T&C basically) and modified the 6x9's with my proprietary (IndianHeadShellac) on the paper and careful E6000 glue around the surrounds, spiders, and frames, which then got Sharpie'd Black, 3x3.5's, 2x2.5's, 2x6.5's, and a nice 6.5 polymer sub out of a BMW's trunk (dual 1ohm VC's to = 2 ohm), the extra deck,2 Durango Infinity Amps, a Grand Cherokee's 6 channel Infinity amp, and I don't know how many miscellaneous test speakers from this n that 300' here, SAAB, BMW, or Volvo (Dynaudio) there for $200. Timewise.....a million bucks in man hours to research, and my 3min older twin kid, who I built Gaming Lenovo Thinkstation PC's for w/out knowing really anything about computers, because my 2006 Panasonic Core2duo's ToughBook needed W10 and no one would entertain that idea,( I love it, it has a handle, has been dropped many times, had a vehicle lift lowered on top of it to where it crushed my toolcart,did get updated/graded and is still the fastest loader in the house) he say's DAD, you could buy something for all that time it's taking.....kids, these 15 yr old twins are clueless that "MY" system, the one that makes them put their fingers in ears to my Hard Rock SPL's, CAN'T BE BOUGHT and is one of a kind. Not to be narcisistic or Amp Racist, but I've worked for GM, Mazda, Toyota, Mitsu,Volvo,BMW and will still put these Mopar Infinity Systems at the Top. You do have to have the right ingredients on speakers, but heck, you can find practically brand new stock and aftermarket speakers in every form factor in vehicles that just got totalled in the junkYard. I go only looking for 1 item and end up spending all day it's like a goldmine out at pick-n-pull! Sooooo 1 factory can't be beat Mitsubishi Hi-Power CD-Tape deck (Alpine same) , dual 4 channel Infinity amps, driving 8 channels and 14 speakers with 480 watts , 1 lonely 120 watt bridged Pioneer 2chnl driving the console modified sub box w/6.5 sub, 2x3.5's, 2x2.5's set up as 2.5 ohm cabinet, and I'll never do another system like this again over a rattling rear speaker....and the satisfaction of watching a couple knucklehead kids put their fingers in their ears as I headbang....PRICELESS.Slewis1