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2001 Dodge Dakota, Aftermarket Alarm/Keyless Entry with Base CTM


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a.scogin86 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: January 01, 2022
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: January 08, 2022 at 8:54 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote a.scogin86
First and foremost, I want to say I am new to this website and have found it to be very resourceful. I think after looking around the site that I am posting in the correct forum, but if not forgive my ignorance and please point me in the right direction.
I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota with a base CTM (no central locking). I purchased a pair of the 2 wire (blue & green) door lock actuators as well as an aftermarket alarm/keyless entry. The clarification I need is, Do I need to follow the diagram exact and tie in the red fused wire, yellow, and yellow/black wire through the firewall directly to the battery or could they be tied into the Black/Pink constant wire at the ignition switch? For the ground same question but instead of connecting directly to the negative battery terminal could I connect to any of the ground locations on the truck?
It also looks as if the alarm/keyless module I purchased may have the door lock relays built in as in the power door lock portion of the diagram it appears to refer to the alarm module as the central locking system. Can anyone shed some light on this as well? If I need to add relays, I intended to use the Reverse Polarity Type D(b) diagram I found on this site. I will upload images of the diagram for the alarm/keyless entry module I purchased (white with blue font) as well as an image from a different alarm/keyless entry module but with the same hookup. (It is a bigger, better image I found on YouTube)
Any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.
2001 Dodge Dakota, Aftermarket Alarm/Keyless Entry with Base CTM -- posted image.
2001 Dodge Dakota, Aftermarket Alarm/Keyless Entry with Base CTM -- posted image.
2001 Dodge Dakota, Aftermarket Alarm/Keyless Entry with Base CTM -- posted image.
Adam Carlile
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 09, 2022 at 8:26 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Lets see if I understand.
2001 Dodge Dakota base truck - no power locks or power windows.
You are adding an aftermarket Remote Keyless Entry system that did not come with lock solenoids. You also purchased 2 two-wire door lock solenoid actuators with rods and mounting hardware. You won't be using the Truck Release and Power Window outputs.
First question - Does the unit have internal lock relays?
From the wiring diagram, I believe it does. If they are typical relays, they can handle up to 30 Amps of current draw. That means that both actuator solenoids can be connect to the output wires. Standard gun style lock solenoid actuators draw less that 3 Amps each. If the top diagram is correct with its connections to the solenoids Green and Blue wires, then the top three wires (Orange, White and Yellow) are the Lock relay. The lower three wires (same colors with a Black stripe) are the Unlock relay. For comparison purposes the below list has the relay wires labeled in standard relay pin form :
White and White/Black are Pin 30 on their respective relays.
Orange and Orange/Black are Pin 87A on their respective relays.
Yellow and Yellow/Black are Pin 87 on their respective relays.
White output is Lock.
White/Black output is Unlock.
You can compare this to the added actuators door lock diagram on this site :
https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/multiple-wire-car-door-locks.asp#arp
For your two door application, I would fuse the lock relays wires going to +12V constant at 10 Amps.
Second question - power source
As far as the power source for this aftermarket system, I believe you could connect to the +12V constant wires at the ignition switch harness. Connect the Red wire to Pink/Black wire and the Yellow & Yellow/Black wires to the Red/Light Blue wire, fused at 10 Amps. Any solid frame, clean and rust free location under the dash for the Chassis Ground point will be fine.
Personally, I would lay this whole system out on a bench and wire up the power, ground and lock actuators first. Make any necessary programming changes and test everything. You will see how the actuators move with the remotes button presses and better understand how the solenoids and rods must be connected inside the doors.
This system is similar to a more common and available system used in the states, the Avital 2101L. For comparison purposes, you can find its' install guide in the Downloads section. It has better lock wiring diagrams but the wire colors are different and there is an error in the manual. The H1/6 White/Black wire is actually relay Pin 87A.
Soldering is fun!
a.scogin86 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: January 01, 2022
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: January 10, 2022 at 10:17 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote a.scogin86
Kreg357 Thank you for your reply. So so you are correct on your understanding of my situation and my truck having the base CTM. As far as the module having relays, that I am unsure of. The module I purchased has very generic directions and wiring diagram, but if you look at the 2nd picture posted above there is a spot that speaks to the amperage and voltage of the module which is why I think it has relays built in. I think I will take your advice and test it out. Once again I really appreciate your input! I do almost all repairs, mods, enhancements for home and automotive myself, but this is one where the more research I did the more I got confused.
Adam Carlile
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,574
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: January 10, 2022 at 12:19 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
That's the main issue with those imported RKE systems - the instructions are pretty vague and difficult to interpret. The way the lock wires are grouped and colored, it really looks like internal relay outputs. If there is no fuse on the White & White/Black wires I would combine them together and add the 10 Amp fuse to protect things.
Doing a bench test will save time and clear things up on wiring and operation. The most difficult of the whole job is properly running the wires into the doors and mounting / connecting the solenoid actuator rods to the vehicles lockworks. From personal experience do a bunch of testing before re-installing the inner door cards.
Soldering is fun!
a.scogin86 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: January 01, 2022
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: January 13, 2022 at 10:24 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote a.scogin86
Just want to update you and let you know the power door locks work great! No extra relays were needed as they seem to be built into the module (since they are working with no issue). This was a great learning experience for me and I appreciate your help and feedback! Feel free to use this post for future questions.
Oh, and by the way, anyone who may be struggling with the wiring diagram not matching the actual wiring of their 2001 Dakota can Check the manufacturer date on the sticker at the driver door jam. If it is an older generation (mine is 07/1999) then they need to use the wiring diagram for a 2000 Dakota.
Thank you again!
Adam Carlile

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