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2004 Ford F-150 Lariat, CompuStar CM-DC3


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rockshmo 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 11, 2022
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: June 11, 2022 at 3:56 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote rockshmo
Hey all, I'm new here and this looks like a great resource for what I'm doing. I haven't been able to find too much relating to my issue although I did find a thread with a similar vehicle but they were installing a Viper unit instead.
Background:
I purchased a CompuStar 4905s kit from Best Buy for a different vehicle (2011 Subaru Outback) and went as far as ordering the WebLink adapter so I could install and program the unit, nothing against Best Buy but I have experience as an Automotive Technician so I felt confident enough to do it myself. Everything went smoothly, and I'm happy with the product and it's capabilities. That being said I ordered another of the same kit for my other vehicle and this is where I am stuck.
Vehicle and Equipment:
2004 Ford F150 Lariat SuperCrew Auto, 40bit key (has keypad on door for lock/unlock)
CompuStar 4905s kit:
- CM-DC3 RS Module
- ANT-2WFMX Remote Antenna
- 2WG15R-FM 2 Way LED Remote
- 1WG15R-FM 1-Way Backup Remote
Accessories:
- Firstech FT-HRN-DC3 Harness
(Same harness I used on the Outback)
Issues:
I ran through the same process on this current vehicle but the remote start and door lock features are not working.
I double checked all of my connections according to the install guide from Firstech (idatalink), verified my tach signal was between 1-4 VAC, 12V+ constant, 12V+ ignition and all goes pretty smooth until the tach signal programming. I also noticed after programming the 2-way remote it doesn't seem to actually Lock/Unlock the vehicle.
Through browsing this forum I've found some systems require a separate bypass module for this vehicle but I believe the CM-DC3 has one built in as I had to wire it to the immobilizer, I've also found that some people needed to tap into different door lock wires with diodes. I currently have the unit wired into the Green connector in the driver side kick panel for the door locks like this
LOCK(-) PINK/YELLOW
UNLOCK(-) PINK/LTGREEN
For the Tach Signal I know I have the proper wire but for some reason when I'm trying to finalize the module programming in the vehicle it just doesn't seem to take. The directions state:
Plug the unit into the vehicle after uploading the Firmware via WebLink
Turn the key on, wait for LED to turn solid GREEN for 2 seconds
Turn key to OFF position
Start vehicle for 15 seconds
Press and hold brake pedal
Press and release the module's programming button
Release the brake pedal
Now after these steps the module LED is supposed to flash GREEN signaling the programming was completed. When I get to this point I follow the steps but never see the LED turn GREEN on the final step, so I'm not sure if there's an issue with the lock wiring that's preventing the unit from finalizing it's programming.
Questions:
Does anybody have experience with this vehicle/RS unit combo that could point me in the right direction?
I don't actually know why when I'm finishing the module programming in the vehicle it doesn't take, I've repeated the entire programming steps multiple times and it just doesn't take. Could I use some different settings while setting up the Firmware to get this to work?
I don't really have access to good wiring diagrams for this vehicle, would anybody be able to supply me with diagrams specific to this vehicle? (Lariat, SuperCrew, RKE, etc)
Sorry for the exceedingly long post but I wanted to include all the details I could.
mgoetz74 
Copper - Posts: 410
Copper spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: February 15, 2012
Location: United States
Posted: June 11, 2022 at 4:07 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote mgoetz74
did you go to a fuel injector for the tach? should be any wire that is not red. Fords and RS are uber picky on there tach signals. I try to go directly to the injector and have had to use a tach generator piece once or twice or just go tach less which I hate to do
31 years as a installer. Favorite thing to install/topic are remote starts/car alarms. Stop using test lights!!!
rockshmo 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 11, 2022
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: June 11, 2022 at 4:27 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote rockshmo
I did tie into the rear-most injector on the driver side, not the Red/Green, verified AC voltage on the RS wire so I know it's a solid connection. I did read in another post that it's possible to go tach-less but I would also hate to do that, it gets quite cold in the winter months where I live.
Thank you for the response.
rockshmo 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 11, 2022
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: June 11, 2022 at 7:08 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote rockshmo
New problem:
2004 Ford F-150 Lariat, CompuStar CM-DC3 -- posted image.
Anybody know what this means? I hope the module isn't bricked from too many attempts to flash it..
silvercivicsir 
Copper - Posts: 348
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 21, 2003
Posted: June 12, 2022 at 6:18 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote silvercivicsir
how many times have you tried to KLON the key? there is a limit of 4 or 5 timex per module.. You can try calling in to datalink and ask for reset, but that is on a case by case basis. as for the door locks did you hard wire them? dc-3 doesn't support door locks / tach on data.
you are completing the klon process before you are trying to learn tach? The dc-3 comes with pretty detailed instructions on how to install, are you following them and the programming instructions?
rockshmo 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: June 11, 2022
Location: New Jersey, United States
Posted: June 13, 2022 at 11:18 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote rockshmo
Yeah I was following the instructions, I guess I hit the limit. I was able to get some decent wiring diagrams for the truck and found I had the door lock/unlock on the wrong truck wires so I was able to get that sorted out. The tach wire is hard wired into the injector on the driver's side. The instructions said to run the RS brake wire to the trailer brake connector green wire (above the gas pedal) but I moved it to the green wire at the actual brake pedal connector.
When I made those new connections for the brake and door locks I went to do the tach learn again but I kept having the same issue where I would start the vehicle, depress the brake, hit the programming button on the module and release the brake but the LED never turned green. So I thought I would flash it one last time and start fresh, that's when I encountered that error.
Guess I'll have to get in touch with tech support. Thanks for your reply.
silvercivicsir 
Copper - Posts: 348
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 21, 2003
Posted: June 13, 2022 at 3:16 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote silvercivicsir
tach learn needs 3 things
1st Ignition I would meter your Thicc pink wire and make sure you have 12v pin #5 on the M1 harness
2 Footbrake meter the brown wire with silver dots, PIN 1 on m3
3rd and final after the red solid light, (which means it got ignition, and footbrake.. it should flash green one for analog tach, or two for data tach) if it doesnt and you get 3 red flash, you got an error.
and for fun, you are on the correct purple/white wire for tach? pine #5, on M3 ??

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