2005 Toyota Prius, Viper 4105v

In the driver's side kick panel I relocated the unlock and lock wires of the viper to the pink and blue "key unlock" and "key lock" of the Prius. My initial search of these two wires were unsuccessful and I ended up probing and connecting the viper to 1 brown and 1 green "master unlock" and "master lock" on the Prius. Both sets of wires were on different connectors. I thought there were perhaps errors with the wire color chart on other websites. I did find a posting on a priuschat forum that correctly identified the connector's (IE1) position I needed for the lock and unlock wires. On the initial install, I used a Prius wiring schematic that did not identify the correct connector, sending me on my on search for a generic lock/unlock circuit. Seemed to work in the beginning. My unreliable secure takeovers, and what I eventually saw non responsiveness of the remote after sitting for awhile, had me in the hunt for the pink and blue wires. I believe the key lock/ key unlock wires wake the Prius body ECU to receive commands from the bypass and viper. Just tying to the door lock wires was not good enough. Everything seems to be working now. Secure takeover when I want it and responsiveness after sitting for awhile. I also figured out if I left the headlights on, they would stay on after the viper's timeout shut down. Had to add a relay to the viper's factory alarm rearm output to cycle a ground to the driver's side door ajar wire. That fixes that. Last thing. I think I'm missing the flash output confirmation for locking and unlocking. The light flash is connected and parking lights are on when the r/s is running. Just no flash to the door locks when the car is off. Thought there would be a programming option on the viper menus, but don't see anything like that. Thoughts? 🤔

Q. Just no flash to the door locks when the car is off. Thought there would be a programming option on the viper menus, but don't see anything like that. Thoughts? Not a big Viper user but I'm pretty sure the Parking Lights should flash with a lock or unlock command. It's possible that the lights on while R/S are DRL's. Think you should double check the 4105 Parking Light jumper. If you are using this vehicle wire : Parking Lights    BROWN (+)    @ FUSE BOX, TOP LEFT CONN., PIN 10 The 4105 Parking Light jumper should be set to (+) and the Brown wire should output a (+) ~.8 second pulse with a Lock command ( two pulses with a Unlock ).Soldering is fun!

Humm. I'll have to look. My install notes I wrote have me tying into a -yellow wire @ the headlight switch and puting the viper jumper to -. My parking lights flash if the viper detects the hood pin open or if I had a failed start attempt (from earlier issues). They also come on and stay on while the vehicle is remote started. If it is a DRL side of the circuit, maybe it flashes and turns on for all of these instances because the viper turns on the accessory circuit on the car? It's snowing here today, but I'll make the change to see if that corrects it soon. I appreciate the info for sure! Side note: I also have a 4105v on my 02 Explorer I installed a month ago and it does have unlock/lock flasher confirmation.

Looking over the Prius schematics. Does this look like the correct connector and position in the circuit to tie into?

Yes, that looks correct. Easy to test with a Digital Multi Meter. It's fused at 10 Amps so the 4105 (+) Parking Light output should be OK. The (-) Parking Light Yellow wire at the Headlight Switch connector should be OK too.Soldering is fun!

Found it. Made the change to the +Brown wire and switched the jumper to +. Flashers work like they should for the door lock confirmations while the car is off. Another issue came up. And this was happening before the flasher wire change. I thought the key lock and unlock wire change (pink & blue) fixed the unresponsiveness after sitting awhile. At least it did for lock and unlock responsiveness. I have found now that the remote start is unresponsive after sitting overnight. Infact, this morning it set off the factory alarm when I attempted a remote start. So now, sitting for several hours, remote start does not respond. I see the brake lights activate for the start, but they go out after a few seconds and the parking lights flash 1 time indicating a failed start. No dash lights come on during this. This evening I tried it again and it failed to start. After pressing the viper lock and unlock several times, I attempted the remote start and it worked. I'm wondering if a computer "wakeup" is needed. Perhaps using the viper's factory alarm disarm wire to trigger a circuit? I've had to do something similar with my 02 Explorer. Update. Disconnected battery hoping to reset the viper and alca. Remote start now failing every time with the 1 flash code of a failed start. At this point I put the key fob in the car the r/s turns on the car. After I turn the car back off, I'll take the key fob out of the car walk away with it. Then r/s and the car will start again without the key fob inside. So I'm now thinking the bypass is not reliably transmitting the key fob's frequency? Could it be an issue of the distance from where I've mounted the bypass in relation to the key slot? Or the ALCA doesn't transmit the frequency wirelessly, but does so through the wire connections? Making the distance a non issue then.

Got some strange issues... First, I would suggest that you set the Viper for Double Unlock Pulse, Menu 1, Feature 5 to Option 2, if you haven't already. Second with all the issues, are you properly soldering all your wire connections? Never heard of a Toyota needing a "wake up". As far as the Factory Alarm on a R/S, the GWR connection should take care of that. Hitting Keysense with a (-) should turn off the Factory Alarm. Too bad you're using a 4105. Other R/S systems have the programming option for "Unlock before and Lock after R/S". With your car and using the driver's door key cylinder lock wires the alarm should be handled and a "wake up" not necessary. It's possible that the 1N4001 diode on the Keysense wire is bad/flakey. If you haven't used both (-) Status Output and the (-) 2nd Status Output wires you could use both with one going directly to Keysense without the diode. The cars' transponder is handled by the ADS AL-CA Code and TXCT wire connections. As long as you didn't extend the Blade harness wires and you soldered those connections there should be no issues.Soldering is fun!

I did not set the double unlock before. Completely forgot, but I just did so now. I'll wait to see if this changes anything before proceeding with the other suggestions. All my connections are using Cubefeller Solder Seal Wire Connectors. As far as I can see, all connections are solid. The flakey diode suggestion seems like a plasable issue. Honestly since the whole key fob sitting on the seat with a r/s last night, the car has started each of the 5 r/s' I've attempted. I don't trust it though. I'll see if the double unlock does anything first. There does seem to be a "clunk" lock thrown in the sequence before the r/s executes.

After setting the double unlock pulse. Yesterday I had reliable remote starts all throughout the day at different time intervals. Before going to bed I tried 1 last time and it failed and gave me 1 flash. After locking and unlocking with the viper I attempted again for a r/s and it worked. After 8hrs or so this morning I attempted a r/s and failed with 1 flash. Tried a r/s again and the factory alarm sounded. Was able to shut it off with the viper unlock. I then locked the car with the viper remote and attempted a r/s and it started. So I just finished soldering a replacement 1N4001 diode on the key sense wire facing the same direction as per the idata diagram. Everything is working right now. We'll see how the day goes. If this doesn't work out, thinking my next move will be to use the viper's factory disarm wire with a diode to the key lock circuit. My my hope is for the viper to send a lock pulse first before the r/s attempt routine. A first time "wakeup' for a Toyota? Or like you mentioned other remote starters having the unlock then lock option prior to startup. If in my instance an unlock is needed for the wakeup, I can diode the disarm wire to the unlock. I mentioned in another post that there is a lock "clunk" during the r/s routine so it seems that the r/s would relock the car after the disarm wire had unlocked the car? I am currently utilizing the other grounded output for the rear defrost. If the disarm wire doesn't do anything, I'll sacrifice the rear defrost for a undioded key sense connection.

Long story short, it's fixed! The story..... Connected the disarm wire with a diode to the key lock wire. So r/s gives a preemptive "lock" before the r/s routine is even started. Had to set in menu 1 feature 7 to have this only do this prior to the r/s. Seemed to work throughout the day. Of course the next morning the r/s failed and the factory alarm sounded anyway. So we have still maintained the integrity of never hearing a Toyota needing a "wakeup". Lol. I still kept this intact, liking the idea of an extra lock before the r/s. So I moved to your idea of separating the key sense circuit from the relay operating the key lock solenoid. This again brought me back to an earlier post where I pointed out voltages on this circuit I thought was strange.

winters692pr7 wrote: I'm suspecting the GWR output used on the viper's satellite harness is causing the issue. When "running" it's more like 2v+ than a ground. Like 9v+ when not running. Odd, but seems good enough to initiate a remote start. If I pin a ground to either the r/s GWR output or the bypass side input GWR after a brake press or remote push, the vehicle will shut down. Pining a ground down the circuit past the diode on #85 to the relay does nothing. With all this said, could the viper's GWR output be malfunctioning and not sending the proper voltage or grounding to the bypass' input for the shutdown? Perhaps installing a relay powered off the GWR output that can cycle a wired ground to the rest of the circuit?

So I did multiple voltage tests with r/s in action and the vehicle at rest with this circuit. I found that the voltage was ultimately being introduced to the circuit via the key lock solenoid relay. I have not been using relays with a flyback diode to help with voltages jumping the coil from point 86 to 85. The many relays I have are cheap and nothing special. At least I believe if I used this type of relay, it would have eliminated this voltage jump. So the GWR -input on the bypass is seeing this introduced voltage and thinking the key sense wire is introducing this and that the vehicle is not ready for a start. And that's why the vehicle doesn't start. The key sense connector on the vehicle produces 12v+ 1 minute after the vehicle shuts off and goes to 0v right before if ignition occurs and stays 0v while the vehicle is running. So the GWR -output from the remote start is being trampled on by this 12v+ introduction by the voltage leak from the relay. As to why I was getting any starts is beyond me? Maybe after it sitting around long enough the vehicle battery has more voltage for the initial 12v+ spike to be introduced to the circuit? Anyways, this voltage leak doesn't belong there so separating the key sense from the solenoid circuit needed to be done. My other status wire was connected to my -rear defrost and that needed solid -ground for that to initiate. So I removed all the diodes and this is the wiring I came up with. Afterthought...Looking at this again, reintroducing the diodes on both status wires prior to the r)s would be okay now. Because I didn't want to give up the -rear defrost, I piggybacked another relay with a separate frame ground to the -rear defrost trigger wire. Perhaps this could have been all avoided with the use of a flyback diode on the relay and stuck with the initial wiring diagram, but I felt taking this all the way this route after the leak discovery was best. I think idata should specify in the diagram under the required items that this particular relay should have a flyback. Or maybe installers know already that flyback diode relays should always be used for r/s installations? As for the other relay in this installation connected to the brake, it also has a 12v+ leak past the relay coil. But, it seems that it doesn't affect the performance of that circuit. Conventional wisdom would probably direct me to put a flyback relay in there. Hopefully this post will help someone else out Thank you Kreg357 for all of your help. Your installation wisdom has helped me out with this big time!