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2010 Mazda 5, Avital 3100LX Alarm, Door Trigger Problem


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fierygt 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: September 19, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 24, 2024 at 8:32 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote fierygt
Hi, I am installing an Avital 3100LX into a 2010 Mazda 5, and have pretty much got everything installed and functioning...except for the door trigger(s). I am using the alarm green negative (-) door trigger input wire, and have tried running it a few different ways. But I always get the same problem, which is when I hook it up, the alarm thinks a door is 'open', and will not arm the door trigger zone. According to the pin outs I can find, the main door trigger wire is the blue/black (-), which I have tried wiring straight, and also with a diode, but get the same issue. I also found another pin out that shows the blue/black (-) as the left door, red/yellow (-) as right door, and green/orange (-) for the two rear sliding doors, and even tried hooking up all those, separated with diodes, and it still does the same thing, where I arm it, it chirps, and then chirps a second time, telling me a door is 'open' and will not arm that zone.
I "can" get the green door trigger input for the alarm to work with the domelight, however there is a problem there, in that the domelight has a delay/fade feature, so it has that working against it, if I don't wait for the domelight to go out before arming. I also would really just prefer to have it work with the door triggers as intended. I have spent hours trying to figure out what I am doing wrong, and seems like the more I work on it, the more confused I get...which is weird, because I have hooked an alarm up in the past, with remote start, remote windows, and the whole 9 yards, and have this install all figured out, except for the door triggers, which would seem like the easiest thing to figure out, but I think the BCM is fighting me and I don't really know how to get around it....or what I am doing wrong.
For more information, with the doors open, the blue/black wire shows: 0v, door closed with the light on: 2.07v, and door closed with the light fully off: 5.25v...which I don't know if it is relevant or not, but just giving as much info as I can. Here are a couple of links I used to find the wiring:
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=144938
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=123459
http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/2007-/mazda/mazda5/1394.html
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: March 24, 2024 at 10:02 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
The Door Trigger wires on that vehicle are (-) N.C. signals. The Viper isn't capable of handling that type of signal directly. There are a few ways to handle those door trigger wires.
See DEI TechTip #1921. Here is a link = https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1353
There is a module that can do this for you, look for an Omega AU-NCT.
You could try this wire which should give you a (-) door open status when any door is open.
All Door Status   YELLOW   (-) @ PASSENGER KICK
More info :
Hood Status   GRAY\RED (-N.C.)   (-) @ FACTORY HOOD SWITCH
Trunk Status   ROWN\RED   (-)   @ PASSENGER KICK
Soldering is fun!
fierygt 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: September 19, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 24, 2024 at 10:48 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote fierygt
kreg357, thanks, that helps. I guess I can't use the DEI tech tip option to run a diode and a 10k ohm resister, because I just measured and the ohms at the Alarm purple + door trigger to ground are 5.40k, which is lower than the 22k in that tech tip. From the techtip: "The 10kΩ value shown in the diagram will only work with Directed systems that have a 22kΩ or higher resistance between the main module’s (+) door trigger input pin and ground pin"
    On the yellow wire, I think that is the exact yellow wire I did use, to get the doors to trigger on the domelight, however I would have to work out a solution for the domelight delay issue if I go that route. Do you happen to know of a solution for that? The alarm doesn't have any programming options for that, so would there be some other simple circuit I could make to make that work? If I have to, I'll find the module you listed, but was hoping to get this accomplished without having to order any more parts. I always have some spare circuit boards laying around to scavenge components from.
fierygt 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: September 19, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 25, 2024 at 6:25 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote fierygt
I went ahead and just used the dome light. I also went ahead and tapped into the rear hatch to include that as a protected door, since you gave me the wire for it, both with diodes of course. On the Mazda 5, the rear hatch is isolated from the dome lights, so it won't be triggered unless it is hooked up, just for reference to anybody else looking for this solution. Once I hooked the door locks back up, it seems to have taken care of the dome light delay issue on it's own. Thanks for the information about the tech tip, kreg357, I just could not figure out "why" the door triggers were fighting me.

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