Viper 5701, Vintage 1965 Ford Van

It has been a while since I instead alarms and car audio. I am rebuilding the entire wiring system on my 1965 Ford P-500 Vanette. I want to integrate the wiring for the alarm into the wiring harness I am building. I will be utilizing the remote start features, and I am a bit confused. On harness 3 there are 9 used pins but which ones are needed? My ignition is super simple I will wire the green to the ignition switch, cooler goes to the starter relay. Do I need to connect the pink and red to battery 12v + constant power? What other wires are actually needed? On harness 2 there are a few connections that seem relevant h2/13 purple does that tie in with h3/4? Does h2/14 pink get connected? Sorry if the questions seem basic, it just seems like the wires are redundant and I can't remember which ones are important. Thank you!

Is this vehicle fuel injected? If it's carbureted you will likely run into problems getting it to start dependably. In the H3 remote start harness, you need to connect the red and red/black wires to constant 12 volt power. The pink wire will connect to your ignition wire, which has power with the key in the ignition and start positions. The orange wire is only used if you want accessories powered during remote start (radio, air conditioning, etc.) and gets connected to the vehicle's accessory wire. The purple wire connects to the starter wire at the ignition harness. If you want to use the built in starter kill feature, you will cut the factory starter wire at the ignition harness and connect the purple wire to the side that goes to the to vehicle. Then the green wire connects to the cut key side of the starter wire. You need to connect the red wire in the H1 harness to constant 12 volt power. The black wire gets grounded. You will use either the green or purple door trigger wire (not both) depending on the polarity of your door triggers (probably green). The brown wire provides power to the siren if you are using it, and the white wire connects to the vehicle's parking light wire. You will not be using much of the H2 harness. The brown/black wire can be connected to the horn wire if you want the horn to sound when the alarm is triggered. The purple/white wire connects to a tach source which can likely be found at the ignition coil. The black/white wire will be grounded. H2/13 and H2/14 will not be used in your vehicle. Obviously the door lock harness is only needed with power locks. Other than that, make sure the toggle switch is plugged in and in the on position if you want to remote start. These come default in manual transmission mode and will need to be programmed to automatic transmission if you have an automatic.

Thank you very much! I am using a Fitech TBI instead of the original carburator (great point). Because I am building the harness from scratch I am planning to just wire the green wire directly to the key switch, then either splice the purple to the wire going to the starter, or just de-pin the purple wire and wire directly to the connector (I don't want any splices). Pink essentially connects to green then? Orange will be wired to the accessory terminal of the key switch, with the normal accessory wire? Thank you!!!

Pink is ignition, green is starter. They are not connected together.

Good catch thank you!

I really like my modern vehicle key fob where I walk up to the car tap a button on the door handle and it unlocks. I am rebuilding a 1965 Ford P500 delivery van and will be installing my viper 5701 alarm (I already have it). Is there any way to use the phone as a key with NFC and Bluetooth to unlock the van (without touching my phone), through the viper alarm? Is there a better inexpensive system I can use instead?

I used Viper systems for years. The standalone smart start Bluetooth module (VSM 50BT) is something I used to use, but it was problematic and worked when it wanted. An alternative might be PKE 2102T: http://pdf.ampire.de/directed/N2102T.pdf I recently switched to Compustar. This is their PKE system: https://www.compustar.com/remotes/ezgo-ii/ One thing I like about Compustar as opposed to Viper is you can reassign a sensor input to use as a wired arm/disarm input when connecting to an external unit. So you can use a separate PKE unit and connect it to the Compustar arm/disarm inputs.

Thank you, What would the system and parts be in the compustar line be? I want to eventually have an alarm trigger output for a strobe light and fog machine. I have heard others mention they switched to Compustar, I will consider it but I want to keep the costs down. Thanks for your insight

It can be overwhelming looking at your options since different Compustar systems use many of the same products. A comparable system to the 2 way Viper would be the CM7900-AS. Scroll down and see what is included here: https://www.compustar.com/bundles/cs7900-as/?sid=30 An OP-500 handheld programmer can be used for programming and is like the Bitwriter is for Viper. Basic programming can be done without it, but advanced features can only be done through the OP-500. If you purchase one of these, make sure it has the latest firmware. If you only need 1 or 2 advanced options changed you could consider just having a local shop change them for you. For PKE, you could either go with Compustar's EZGO-II, or a separate standalone. If you go with EZGO-II, you have the option of using another port to retain your 2 way functionality. If you go with a separate PKE system, you need to reassign a sensor port to arm/disarm input. The drawback with the CM7900-AS is there is only one sensor input, so you lose the shock sensor (if that's important to you). You could upgrade to a system like CSX9900-AS with the CMX module, but this would raise your cost. You can check Amazon and eBay for deals. Soundoftristate and Lockdownsecurity are both DIY friendly sellers.

I am not seeing the NFC Bluetooth sensor to use me phone as the key.