1990 Caddy remote start Help

I am in the middle of installing a remote start in my 90 deville, I originally thought I had a pass system in it but after I ordered the transponder bypass kit I found out it was a VATS system. Anyway, I hooked up the remote start without the bypass kits and everything works fine (when I have the key in the ignition of course). Now the only thing I am trying to figure out is how to wire up the bypass system, I heard you can use a relay and a resistor to bypass it to save some money, but i already have the kit, my biggest problem is have 8 billion wires spliced into the ignition wire between the 12 volt+ for the alarm remote start and the bypass kit, and there ain't too much room under that dash for splicing!! When I read the instructions on how to install the kit it seems like I only have about 3 wires to hook up as compared to Passlock 1&2 which have about 10 or so, and I can't find the wires coming down from the ignition from the sensor for the key every schematic I look at has them as different colors!!. Any help or advice would be most appreciated>  Thanks

ok, well I would rather do whatever is easier, and since I have the kit I guess that would be the easiest way? Although the resistor and relay way sounds pretty easy too. The thing is, is that with the bypass kit I have, the instructions for wiring arent very clear, I guess I will mess with it a little more tomorrow and see what I end up with, today when I tried to hook up the kit I didnt actually cut one wire for the VATS I just spliced the one wire into it, but the only other question I have is, if I cut the wire for the VATS system, and hook up the one wire that the kit tells me to, which side of the wire do I connect to, the side going up the column to the key, or the side going to the VATS module? The second wire for the VATS system doesnt get used at all? because the instruction from that kit tells me to hook up a ground to it? Maybee I am wrong, because that sounds pretty wierd. Anyway, lemme know what you think.

                           Thanks, Jack

Actually, it was really easy I had it hooked up in a about a half an hour and running heres how I did it, I bought a 30 amp 5 terminal relay, I hooked up a 12 volt constant power to terminal 86, I cut ONE wire to the VATS system, I took the end that goes to the ignition and connected it to terminal 87a and took the other end that goes to the Passkey/VATS decoder and hooked it up to terminal 30. I then connected the resistor to terminal 87 and then spliced the other end of the resistor to the other wire for the VATS/Passkey (the one I didnt cut). Then I found a Neg(-) output from the remote start and connected that to terminal 85 on the relay. The only problem I ran into is that the way I had it set up, with the Neg output from the remote start triggering the relay was that I didnt have any Neg outputs!! So I took the 12 volt constant and hooked it up to the accessory (orange) wire and took that neg from terminal 85 on the relay and hooked it up to the chassis ground. It works well but the only thing is, is that the relay is alway on when the car is running and I noticed yesterday that the relay got a little warm, I don't think it will be a problem because people use relays on fog light and headlights, and they get warm, but I am pulling a little bit of Aperage through that relay due to it being hooked up to the accessory wire, (A/C, heat, stereo, etc) But the relay is rated up to 30amps, and all that stuff can't possible pull more than 25, so I will just have to wait and see what happens, the worst that can happen is that the relay will burn out and the VATS system won't let the car start! Ha!! Ok, well thanks again for your help, your a life saver man!! I learned a lot!!

                                           Jack

I just saw this post and would like to add to it.   I recently just installed a remote start on a 1990 deville also and  didn't need the relay at all. I did the same like thing with checking the resistance on key and all, but with the 2 thin wires coming down from the ignition in the orange tube, I just cut both wires and jumped the resister with the correct value across the  2 wires away from the ignition side.  worked perfectly.  i don't know about the relay part , it seems unneccessary. but if it worked, then cool...