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Viper Alarm has Disabled My Starter Help!


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96Neon 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: August 18, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 18, 2003 at 8:50 AM / IP Logged  

I have a 96 Dodge Neon 4 door. It is a base model and I bought it 2 years ago. It came with a Viper Alarm already installed with remote start and power locks installed.

A few days ago, I went to get into my car, my alarm went off when I opened the door. I never armed the alarm when I got out. My  normal button sequence on my remote transmitter did not cut off the alarm. I started hitting buttons and it finally went off. It then seemed to go into lockout mode and would not let me start my car. I unhooked the battery which I had hoped would clear the alarm's memory, but it did not. Whenever I tried to hook the battery back up, the alarm would go off instantly. I decided that the alarm was faulty, so I unhooked it yesterday. I removed all of the connections that were made with the alarm, I think, and it still is acting the same way. I was thinking that it was a dead battery, but I tried to jump it by hooking jumper cables up from another car and it still did not crank. I must have missed something or not hooked up a wire that I need to.

If anyone can shed some light on this situation, I would greatly appreciate it. This is my only method of transportation so I need to get it fixed quickly. Is there something that I need to reset or is there a workaround that I can do? Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thanks all.

Jay

96Neon 
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Joined: August 18, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 18, 2003 at 1:34 PM / IP Logged  
Somebody please.....give me a suggestion on something to try!!
jepherz 
Member - Posts: 24
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Joined: August 18, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 18, 2003 at 2:31 PM / IP Logged  
Hey neon,
I am definately no expert, but if I understand you correctly, I am thinking that you just either disconnected all of the wires from the alarm or cut them off or something of that sort. This is how I believe yours works. The ignition to your car has at least one hot wire, with several other wires on the same harness. When you turn the key, the hot wire is connecting to some of the other wires in the harness. For remote start, those wires are spliced (seperated) and they will only work with the key when the alarm is un-armed. I am guessing that you have to patch a few of these wires back together. If you can follow the ign harness at all, they should be the same colors.
Hope this helps you, and if you other guys have any idea, correct me, at least give this guy a starting point!!
just my $0.02
"Screw nitrous, I'd rather be blown."
dyer 
Copper - Posts: 206
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: May 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: August 18, 2003 at 3:45 PM / IP Logged  
When you plug the alarm harness back into the alarm it goes off right? This is normal. You should plug the alarm back in and simply disarm the alarm with the remote when it's going off. Also, Most alarms don't lose their memory when unplugged...which in most cases is a good thing. Also, you said that the alarm was armed even when you didn't arm it your self ("I never armed the alarm when I got out". This could possibly be because you have passive arming enabled instead of active arming. Also one more question. Does your car crank and just not turn over, or does it not even try to crank?
Dyer
CutDog504 
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Joined: May 14, 2002
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 18, 2003 at 4:37 PM / IP Logged  
Sounds to me like he cut everything out, including the starter kill relay. In which case he'd have to patch the starter wire back together. Look under the dash and see if you see a yellow wire connected to anything. If not, you might see two pieces of this wire just hanging not connected to anything. If you see them hanging, not connected, patch them together with a butt connector. This yellow wire is your starter wire. It will either be connected to a starter kill relay, or in your case you said you cut everything out, so the two halfes of this wire wont be connected to anything at all. The current for the starter runs thru this wire and thru the starter kill relay and then on to the starter. By removing the relay, you have opened the starter circuit, so you have to patch it up like i said above. Lemme know if this helps.
zargon 
Copper - Posts: 186
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 27, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 18, 2003 at 4:42 PM / IP Logged  
you will have to find the program button under the dash, it will be a black momentary switch, hook your battery back up, the alarm will be going off, get in the car turn the ignition on and press the button under the dash, this will shut off the alarm and allow you to start the car.
zargon ruler of estranorth
96Neon 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: August 18, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 19, 2003 at 6:24 AM / IP Logged  

Hey guys..Thanks for all the help. I did not cut any wires. Whoever put the alarm in used splices to tap into some wires. I removed the wires going into the splices, but did not remove the splices themselves. There was only one wire that I saw that was cut. That was the yellow ignition wire that CutDog504 was talking about. That was under the steering column. I used a butt connector and connected the two ends of that back together. There were wires running from the alarm to other wires under the steering column. These were just spliced into, not cut. There was a wire going into the distributor, I removed that. There were wires spliced into others under the dash and I just removed the connecting wire from the splice. Maybe I am missing a ground or something...I don't understand it. The car does not crank at all. It is silent when I try to start it. It will not turn over once. It acts like the battery is completely dead, but I know this is not true. The battery has never had a problem and I hooked up a charger to it, it said it had a full charge. I must have missed part of the alarm or something. I removed a whole lot of stuff too. Would there be any brains or part of the alarm anywhere else besides under the drivers side dash? Thanks again for your help guys...any suggestions are welcome.

Jay

jaxman 
Copper - Posts: 185
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 16, 2002
Location: Denmark
Posted: August 19, 2003 at 11:30 AM / IP Logged  
Well it seems the system went into VRS mode !
The remote alone won't help you much ! Find also the ghost switch.
Go here and download one of the manuals , this for example :
http://www.directed.com/guides/manuals/og/viper/381V.pdf
See page 25 for details.
Read also about the ghost switch.
Usually it's a switch with a gray-gray/black wire that will go into the system.
I bet it is the VRS and if you disarm the VRS everything will go back to normal.
All the wires have to be conected before you do the VRS sequence , especially the ignition.
If it does not then try to find the relay that cuts your starter wire and remove it.Then put the 2 ends of the starter wire togheter and everything will go back to normal. But try the VRS first !!!!!
ituneyou 
Member - Posts: 40
Member spacespace
Joined: August 20, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 21, 2003 at 12:06 AM / IP Logged  

if you are just trying to get the car started, cut the orange wire coming of the alarm harness, if that doesnt work take the 2 wired off the starter kill relay and tie them together that will totally bypass the startekill.

                                                                              good luck   steve

A man has got to know his limitations
elrayodesinaloa 
Copper - Posts: 120
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 28, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: August 21, 2003 at 12:30 AM / IP Logged  
Yes I think he already did all that was suggested. For what I read there's no more alarm in the car everything's out and the yellow (starter) wire has been butt-connected back to normal. So my question is: when you turn the key over do all the gauges light up and work fine? or nothing happens at all? if the gauges light up but it just doesn't crank my suggestion is remove the butt-connector and simply join the wires by hand. sometimes butt-connectors fail. If not check any other wires that were cut as a result of the install

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