glassing dash and door panels

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PinoyInstaller

Member - Posts: 2

Joined: September 12, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: September 16, 2003 at 6:22 AM / IP Logged

Thanks for adding in the adhesion promoter bigunner1. Forgot that. :)

Just as bigunner said, 400 is the highest due to the paint not being able to stick. If you prep somthing, sand it with a super fine grit paper like above 400, and then take it to a paint shop to get it painted, they are going to re-sand the item with 400 due the reason mentioned above. All that hard work goes to waste. Good luck with your project and be sure to get some pics!

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jtf78

Member - Posts: 9

Joined: March 11, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: September 16, 2003 at 7:47 AM / IP Logged

bigunner1 wrote:

hey linkin, i am a painter in a body shop and pinoyl is right, for sanding the primer, 400 is the highest you want to go. the reason for this is because paint wont stick well to any finer of a scratch. if youy were to sand you primer with lets say 1500 or 2000 grit paper, the paint would almost blow off when the windows were open, well maybe not but it wouldn't stick well at all. andas for the soft rubbery pieces of you dash, all you need to do is spray them first with a product called "plastic adhesion promoter". you can find the stuff at a paint supply store or hardware store. the key to this stuff is waiting a half hour after applying it before you spray the paint or primer. this stuff actually opens up the pores in the plastic to allow the paint to "bite in" and stick. trust me i swear by this stuff. i painted the dash on my truck twice so far and had no problems. the soft parts and the hard parts. the main thing to watch is the sanding of the primer, because it is soft and sands really easy, its easy to get ripples or finger grooves in it that will show up big time when the part is painted and shiny. use a block of some sort as much as possible.

I really surprised to hear you say to paint after 400 grit. I have always wet sanded to 600 or 1000 before painting and have never had problems. I have even asked paiters in my area and they suggested wet sanding to at least 600. Could it be cause of climate? Im down in florida and I see you are in canada.

linkinp2003

Member - Posts: 5

Joined: September 11, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: September 16, 2003 at 8:07 AM / IP Logged

im just wantting to make sure i get a smooth glossy finish like that on the out side of the car. so i guess i will wet sand in between paint coats someone tell me would this be right

prime-paint-wetsand-paint-wetsand-paint-clear-clear-clear

i dont think a paintshop will do that for a resonable price so i will probably want to paint my self but ive never had any experience would using a gravity feed spray gun be better than using a spray can?

bigunner1

Member - Posts: 21

Joined: June 18, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: September 17, 2003 at 6:55 PM / IP Logged

well you are close on the procedure, but i would do it like this adhesion promoter- prime-sand-paint-clear-clear. the typical sytem is 2 coats of paint,and 2 coats of clear. i wouldn't wet sand the paint, especially if it is a metalic color. you can wet sand the clear after two coats and put on another coat if you would like. as for jtf 78, i don't know if the climate has much to do with it, but paint seems to lay down better when its got a surface it can bite into. for blending paint we the guys here at our shop will sand the area for paint with 400, then sand the rest of the panel with 800 for the clear, if that makes sense.

linkinp2003

Member - Posts: 5

Joined: September 11, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: September 18, 2003 at 8:30 AM / IP Logged

ive got all my tools and im going to buy the primer filler now but what kinda adhesior promoter , primer, paint and clear should i use do you guys suggest a certin brand? oh and what stuff should i use to clean the pieces and whats the process on that i was just using soap and water then a degreaser is that right,

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glassing dash and door panels

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