Battery Back-up Siren - Question

Is anyone familiar with the DEI 515R battery back-up siren? I have a question about how it works - no, not the battery back-up part, but how it is shut-down when triggered. What happens if you accidentally activate the alarm? Can the 515R simply be shut-down from the fob or the designated taps of the valet switch? The thought of scrambling to shut it down via the key switch during an accidental midnight trigger isn't very appealing, and I would think DEI has much better engineering than that. I would also think one would design it so that it only requires keyed shut-down if someone snips the wiring. However, the old friend of a friend who installs Crimestopper gear says it will always need the key to shut it down. I doubt it, but now I'm second guessing myself on installing this as a secondary siren. Can anyone reassure me for certain?

I don't know that exact model but they only trigger their "backup power circuit" (if you will) when their power wires are cut. They usually have 4 +/- wires. Constant, ground, neg trip, pos trip. Unlike regular sirens which sound out when they get any power to the 2 wires, the backup siren does nothing when it get power on the red and black. When it get a signal from with of the trip wires it sounds out like a normal siren. When the alarm signal stops (alarm is disarmed) the backup stops sounding out. When either of the power wires (RED / black) are removed the siren sounds out and needs to be turned off by the key. So disco'ing the battery would be the same as cutting the red (pos) wire. NOTE: you friend is an idiot (I'm sorry but come on!). Make sure he does not touch your vehicle! By his logic when you disarmed the alarm and it chirped you'd have to run and raise the hood to put the key in? The same on arm? The signal for chirp and full alarm is the same just one is shorter the the other.

The siren should only need to be shut down if power is lost. Otherwise it should work like a regular siren.Certified Security Specialist

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Thanks guys! I actually wasn't able to get onto the forum since I posted the question, and ended up experimenting. Sure enough, as you both point out it behaves as a normal siren until power is lost. floaterr: You're SOOOOO right! Do note he's a friend of a friend thankfully! I think maybe he just wanted to either 1) scare me since I was doing the install myself; or, 2) try to get me to buy his gear. Reality is, I'm a competent and "particular" engineer and absolutely NO-ONE touches my personal vehicles BUT me! I put myself through school turning wrenches as a pro, and come from long line of car enthusiasts so we build them ourselves from the ground up! If interested, here's an example of how nuts an engineer can be! I have nearly finished a multi-day install on my 98 Chevy K1500! Taking the totally stealth route and hiding every single component; 100% solder and shrink wrap or factory harness re-pin for connections (I even pop the terminals out of the connectors to install the adhesive-lined heat-shrink, and the block for the column harness is a PITA to get at and it's a bolted header to boot!); and, all alarm harnesses were modified to custom as-needed lengths and loomed with existing factory harnesses or wrapped exactly as factory! I even hid the brain's LED so I can just access it for diagnostics/programming, and put in a dummy LED that blinks when the ignition is off and shuts down when on (amazing what you can build with a relay, LED, resistors, and some wire)! That way even the smart thief cannot trace the LED pigtail to the brain! Man, it's been serious work (so much for vacation), but I already have the entire interior out as I am sound-proofing the cab and doing a mobile entertainment install too. Here's what I've included in the security. - Viper 790xv (remote start relay satellite was TOUGH to hide) - Pair of 529Ts (one for up/one for down and mounted on backside of inner door panel and sealed) - 555L Pass-Lock bypass - 451M door lock relay (simpler than making the relay pair myself) - 515R back-up siren up under the bed (std siren hidden under hood beneath battery tray) - highly recommend Anchor marine-grade multi-conductor cabling for the long siren runs - pair of 513Ts in-cab for pain - waiting for a SCR (thyristor)for Digi-Key to build a back-up for them so even if the trigger is cut, they'll sound off via axillary feed - ditched the mediocre hood pin-switch included with the 790 for a Harrison unit. More for the remote start safety than security anyway because the previous owners (fire dept.) had a mag-lock installed and you're not opening the hood without a 3-foot pry-bar when it's activated! It's a little big at 7" long and 2" wide and bolted to the radiator support, but it's very effective! Never saw anything like it before on a vehicle either... - mag switch on the bed cap door (tailgate already has an actuated deadbolt I fabricated) - 500T for tow attempt In addition to this alarm system, I had already fabricated jam plates so a would-be cannot do the typical pop the Chevy truck lock through the door handle lip. I also had a pre-existing fuel pump kill that I wired completely into the factory harness using an SCR latched by triggering through an existing switch. I now integrated secondary control of that to channel 4 output so I can remote start after the proper combination of fob strokes, but you cannot start the truck if you bypass the starter kill relay and the brain because the SCR has to see a latching current! In the end, if a pro wants it, he'll take it but it won't be easy! The truck was driven by the fire chief and the strobes were left in place because they penetrated they light housings! Just needs a control module so guess what I am thinking about relaying? If that doesn't make it stand out, nothing will! OK, now take your shots! My wife already thinks I'm insane! Good thing she is at a training seminar this week!